Modification 4,063 and 4,064.
As the car and myself have gradually gotten faster along with the onset of old age,
safety comes into play. One thing I've always wished I had was a power cut off switch. A majority of fires are caused my an electrical short. It will also be nice while servicing the car. Flaming river makes this big daddy that is NHRA approved and will take 2500 amps for 5 second intervals and 200 continous. Maybe a little over kill but I like a margin of safey.
http://www.flamingriver.com/index.ph...s0004/FR1003-2 I set out to poke a hole in the rear facia right below the bumper but couldn't bring myself to it. I'll probably do it down the road. Anyway, I just put a make shift T handle on it for now but it's in the right location for the rod down the road. As usual, this turned into quite a little project. I had to rework all the cables and wires minus the negative side. I'm happy with the look and function. I'm going to order a different sticker with the push off instructions. I also plan to cover the terminals. The only bitch I have with it is a roll pin holds the lever on and you must install the switch in the bracket before you put the arm on and beat in the roll pin. The arm won't fit through the hole in the bracket. The hole is also at and angle so a machine screw won't work.
The second thing I added is a ROLL OVER SWITCH. I wired it into the ground side of my fuel pump relay. The car must be upside down for this switch to cut the ground to the relay. While I hope to never test this one out, I wouldn't want to be upside down with 140 per hour flowing. It's the red capped switch next to the fuel pump relay. I wired it so that if it malfunctions, I can simply uplug the connections and bypass it. The switch is made by painless.
Neither mod was very expensive, I probably have $250 in the whole deal. The cut off switch was pretty time consuming but that was due to packaging and working around the previous set up. I wouldn't build another car without either.