Mig Welder Recommendations

[Buttz1969]

I will be getting my first MIG welder in the near future and I am looking for some recommendations.

My first projects will include repairing the frame for my 69 Camaro (the subframe bolting locations) and welding up the seems of the subframe. From there, it will be a lot of body work type stuff like new floorpans, panel repair, etc.

Do I need a 230V machine or will 115V cut it?

Some that I have been considering so far include:

• Millermatic 140 (w/ or w/o Auto-Set)
• Hobart Handler 140
• Hobart Handler 187
• Lincoln 140T

I included the Hobart's because they seem to be much cheaper and seem to be decent machines. In the 230V world, I think the Hobart 187 is the only one that fits my budget (~$600).

Other suggestions or personal opinions?

[redfire69]

115v should be fine up to 3/16 with light duty cycles. They're all pretty good choices for under $600. I've got the Lincoln Pro140 and had good luck with those types of jobs.

[chevyIIpost]

A 110v unit will work fine as stated just watch your voltage. Any drop in voltage will effect the machines performance. Don't skimp on the extension cord!!!!! Also check the voltage at your garage outlets under load. If they lower than 110v your welders performance will drop off and make it harder to do a good weld on 3/16 material. I like my 110v machine better than the 230v unit for sheet metal. I have more control on the lower settings. Enjoy welding opens up a whole NEW WORLD of fabrication possibillities!!!!

[Buttz1969]

Thanks for the suggestions. I think I am going to try to find a used 230V unit so that I don't kick myself later for getting something too small.

I just missed a great deal on a Millermatic 180, so I'll keep an eye out.

[rubadub]

Heres this http://www.1969supersport.com/smthoughts.html.

So take the floor pans for instance, around .040 thick, this is new metal, now take a close look at some of this 40 year old metal, especially if you sand blast it.

You will see like pock marks in some of it, so that is thinner yet, and some times only half as thick as as new metal.

Once you start welding you will blow holes in the metal, and this problem will not go away, and it is really aggravating.

Go with the 110 machine, and don't think that they aren't the real deal. I retired four years ago, I'm 66 years old, and up until I retired I worked on a lot of cars and pickups for extra cash, more mechanical then body work, I used a 110 miller sidekick, for close to twenty years, and it did everything I ever needed it to do.

These 110's will handle anything on these cars.

Get one with an adjustable wire speed and adjustable voltage, .023 wire, and a 75% argon 25% co2 tank mix. This is just a suggestion, it works for me.

Good welders could probably weld this sheet metal with anything, but if your like most of us hobbists, we need all the help you can get, get the 110.

One more suggestion here, get yourself a good auto darkening welding helmet, and a leather apron and welding jacket and gloves, my son in law gave me a nice heavy leather welding apron, and I tried it and thought it was kind of cumbersome to work with.

I got burned pretty good in the pubic hair area, and I was wearing a welding jacket, now I put that leather apron on any time I'm even doing a spot weld.

Rob

[Buttz1969]

Thanks for the suggestion Rob.

On the 230V machines, their amperage range still goes down to the same area where the 115V machines do. Wouldn't this allow me to set it up close to the same as you had described or in reality do the larger machines just not make it down as low?

I keep flipping between the two. I will probably just see what the local shop recommends (although, if they are salesmen by nature they will most likely recommend 230V for other reasons).

[dhondagod]

Running smaller wire and lower amperage on a 220 machine can be done easier than getting more "heat" out of a 110 machine when you need it.

And the times youll need that extra heat is when your welding something that matters like frame/suspension/rollcage etc...


Find a Miller 175 or Lincoln and dont look back. Youll only have to buy it once.

FWIW I have a Lincoln SP100, ESAB 253, 300amp Miller TIG and a 320amp LINDE 3-phase welder. Each have their place but the big LINDE will weld sheet metal better than the 110 LINCOLN.

Chris

[dhutton]

I picked up a Hobart Handler 180 at Tractor Supply for a very good price with a discount coupon a couple of years ago. It has worked well for me, no complaints.

Don

[rubadub]

These 110 welders will weld a car frame easy, there not very thick. My neighbor went to body shop technical school, and all there welders were 110 millers. There was 24 of them in the class.

You can get a bigger machine, but when you start welding you will find out how easy it is to blow through the metal, if your a professional or a really good welder, then you could probably weld it with the bigger machine.

I've welded off and on for 50 years, and I am still not a good welder, you have to work at it a lot to be good.

Rob

[rubadub]

Originally Posted by dhondagod

Running smaller wire and lower amperage on a 220 machine can be done easier than getting more "heat" out of a 110 machine when you need it.

And the times youll need that extra heat is when your welding something that matters like frame/suspension/rollcage etc...


Find a Miller 175 or Lincoln and dont look back. Youll only have to buy it once.

FWIW I have a Lincoln SP100, ESAB 253, 300amp Miller TIG and a 320amp LINDE 3-phase welder. Each have their place but the big LINDE will weld sheet metal better than the 110 LINCOLN.

Chris

Those 110 lincolns don't have variable controls. But I'm pretty sure the newer ones do, plus Lincoln had a plastic drive wheel for sure three years ago.

Rob