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  #21  
Old 03-03-2011, 07:58 AM
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Ketzer Ketzer is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96z28ss View Post
When I move and get a real shop that has some space. I will not coat the floor. I'll just put a sealer on it so I don't get the concrete dust.
This is what I did. Used an exposed aggregate sealer from Eagle. So far I am happy with it for the very reasons you said. makes sweeping and washing easy and keeps the dust down.
The negatives so far are it can be a little slick when wet, but any smooth floor will be.
It is not completely resistant to solvents. I dropped a lacquer rag on it and didn't notice and after five minutes it started to stick, but it cleaned up and dried back out just fine.

I have an epoxied area where I'm going to build an insulated room and beyond that is the sealer.

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  #22  
Old 07-12-2011, 09:33 AM
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I know it is kind of a odd question but will painting the floor help with the floor not sweating on real humid days
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  #23  
Old 01-03-2012, 09:05 PM
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grind the floor, then go to your local PPG (Pittsburgh), or Ben Moore retailer, and get setup with a poly-amide epoxy. Its an industrial product that is extremly durable. Its also used in aircraft hangers.
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  #24  
Old 01-04-2012, 08:41 AM
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I had the floor in my garage rhino lined. It's held up great so far

[IMG][/IMG]

Last edited by jy211; 01-09-2012 at 08:32 AM.
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  #25  
Old 01-04-2012, 09:25 PM
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Sherwin Williams Tile Clad, ftw! Make sure the doors are OPEN!!!!


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  #26  
Old 01-18-2012, 08:29 AM
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I did the Rustoleum stuff, so far so good.

Just be aware that the color can be different from can to can, even in the same pack with the same dye lots... ugh, that sucked. Oh well.

It can be very slick, even with the "anti-slick" coating crap, which really doesn't do squat.

My only complaint is that with the speckle shavings I put down, it's damn near impossible to find a nut or bolt if I drop it. I have to get on my hands and knees at ground level to see something.

It's held up well for over 18 months, so far so good.

Roughly 900sq ft, took me about 3-4 days total, virgin concrete and plastic laid down under the concrete before hand.

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  #27  
Old 10-25-2012, 03:15 PM
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any other updates or reviews of other products? epoxy-coat.com? top secret coatings.com? i have an offer in on a new house and will need to do another floor. my previous post makes me want to shy away from epoxy again, but it looks sooooo damn good when its new.
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  #28  
Old 10-25-2012, 03:55 PM
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I used Garage Guard from Ben Moore/General. It's 4 years old and looks great. I would do it all over again. Low odor, water based, quick dry!!!
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  #29  
Old 10-25-2012, 11:51 PM
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I purchased and installed a top-of-the-line (supposedly) Wolverine product three years ago. Spent 22 hours pushing a dual-disk grinder on a three-car garage floor. I don't think concrete was ever floated properly, hence giving it a non-slip texture. It made grinding it smooth an adventure.

The product purchased was supposed to be UV resistant and basically bulletproof. I was sceptical but drank the Kool Aid. It too did the top-coat yellowing like above, and does not hold up well at all to welding, scraping, etc.

If I was to do it all over again I would still grind the floors. Grinding makes the floor so much easier to clean and comfortable to stand on. Then I'd stain it in multiple colors so that it would help to hide the inevitable stains. It may also allow for future acid cleaning and re-staining at a fraction of the labor cost of removing and recoating an epoxy finish.
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  #30  
Old 10-26-2012, 12:01 AM
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If you're building a "show room" --- then painted fancy floors are GREAT!

If you plan to build a car - and do real work... then forget the fancy 'cause it isn't going to look that way for long.


A few months ago my neighbor that owns a high end retail exotic car shop came over and wanted me to go up with him to look at the super killer floor paint they put in their new detail area... it looked really great. I was there the other day.... OMG! What a waste of money that was!
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