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  #31  
Old 10-13-2014, 08:04 PM
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Nice lookin plate.

So you decided to go with front and rear motor plates huh?
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  #32  
Old 10-13-2014, 08:08 PM
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Motor plate made by same clown that made your sway bar clamps........................

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  #33  
Old 10-13-2014, 08:19 PM
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Brian


We should go halves on a flatbed trailer for when both our cars are done


*Cough* Vince *Cough*
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  #34  
Old 10-13-2014, 08:25 PM
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Package will be there tomorrow........
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  #35  
Old 10-13-2014, 08:50 PM
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This is a sweet project dude, I wish there were more current build threads like this in this section. Did you find a jig or build table yet?
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  #36  
Old 10-13-2014, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Track Junky View Post
I agree with Greg. Looks great. Hope this project doesn't take you to long......looking forward to seeing you at the track next season.
Thanks, I hope to get it done relatively soon. But we will see.....

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Brian


We should go halves on a flatbed trailer for when both our cars are done


*Cough* Vince *Cough*
I've got an empty enclosed sitting in my driveway dude.. Hehe

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Originally Posted by Flash68 View Post
Nice lookin plate.

So you decided to go with front and rear motor plates huh?
Thanks, and yeah I think so. I've heard of guys using a front plate and just a tranny mount. But that kind of scares me? I am doing some small two piece rear mounts. basically ears off the bellhousing to the chassis.

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This is a sweet project dude, I wish there were more current build threads like this in this section. Did you find a jig or build table yet?
Thanks man. I may just do it old school and string line and plumb bob it.. I've got it leveled out right now. I may make a small fixture or something, haven't figured that out yet. I have suspension mocked up in cad, so in theory I should be able to make the arms and go from there.
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  #37  
Old 10-14-2014, 12:52 AM
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I've got an empty enclosed sitting in my driveway dude.. Hehe

Room for 2?
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  #38  
Old 10-14-2014, 02:00 AM
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Thanks, and yeah I think so. I've heard of guys using a front plate and just a tranny mount. But that kind of scares me? I am doing some small two piece rear mounts. basically ears off the bellhousing to the chassis.


I went through that same thought & research process and got enough feedback from way heavier hitters than myself that the mid plate was not necessary so I skipped that one. It certainly reduces some chassis flex there but is not in the least bit a necessity item.

I was also strongly advised to run a rubber trans mount with the motor plate instead of a solid trans mount. FYI
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  #39  
Old 10-14-2014, 04:33 AM
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Room for 2?
2 cars or 2 trailers?? I could fit another trailer here sure. I am out of room for vehicles LOL.

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Originally Posted by Flash68 View Post
I went through that same thought & research process and got enough feedback from way heavier hitters than myself that the mid plate was not necessary so I skipped that one. It certainly reduces some chassis flex there but is not in the least bit a necessity item.

I was also strongly advised to run a rubber trans mount with the motor plate instead of a solid trans mount. FYI
I was talking to a buddy who put a D3 headed roush motor in a mustang and he said the same thing. I kind of scratched my head, I wouldnt feel comfortable with it really.. If I'd have done that I would have used .750 instead of .5" plate for the front. Hell the drag guys use .250!! But that is with a front and rear plate.... Mine is fairly light with all the pocketing.


Once I actually get the engine totally mounted and done I can post some more pictures of it..

I cut one side of the rear motor plate tonight, I need to finish the cad for the other one and do that (why couldnt ford make the bellhousing symetrical??)

I need to order some more tubing so I can build the subframe... I really need a 1.25" die anyone have a pro-tools 105 die I can borrow??
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  #40  
Old 10-16-2014, 11:12 AM
Chassisworks Chassisworks is offline
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This is a cool project! I wouldn't stress too much about getting a chassis fixture as long as your work surface is flat and level. We have sold thousands of chassis kits that were built in garages around the world. Just keep measuring three times and weld once.

Regarding the engine mounting, if you have a front plate you definitely need to run a mid plate. It's going to reduce binding, increase safety, and increase chassis rigidity. Also, you should run a torque limiter. This will keep you from cracking the tranny case, or the billet front plate.


You weld the stub coming off the rod-end to the frame rail then the other end bolts to the engine mount boss.

Last edited by Chassisworks; 10-16-2014 at 11:14 AM.
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