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Old 01-20-2019, 02:37 PM
rickpaw rickpaw is offline
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Default TR6060 swap - clutch disengagement question

I recently swapped a TR6060 transmission from a 2012 Camaro SS. The transmission came with stock GM throw out bearing/Centerforce DYAD clutch. The hydraulic conversion kit is from McLeod, Pn 1434002.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/m...t/model/camaro

The issue from day one was I couldn't get the clutch to release without the car sitting, and idle for awhile. The clutch also release normally when the weather was hot/warm. I was certain that there was no air in the system, or leak. The McLeod tech I talked to said I can extend the rod on the master cylinder to take up the slack, per se, but I'm not convinced that's the right way to do it.

Once every warms up, then it shifts/goes into gear just fine.

Now the master cylinder leaks so I'm going to replace it with another McLeod 3/4" m/c I have. Any suggestions I go while I have everything apart?
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Old 01-20-2019, 06:53 PM
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Dragging pilot bushing?
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Old 01-21-2019, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by egoman View Post
Dragging pilot bushing?
Don't think dragging pilot bushing will do that. I'm think dragging clutch is more likely the culprit.
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Old 01-24-2019, 10:58 AM
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In all the T56, T56 Magnum (TR6060) conversions I do we run a 7/8" bore MC.

I have also found that the slaves once depressurized have a high likelihood of failure.... meaning I never install a used one unless it is 6 months old.

Start with the MC replacement and if the new one that doesn't leak works... run it. If not... replace the slave also.
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Old 01-29-2019, 10:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gnx7 View Post
In all the T56, T56 Magnum (TR6060) conversions I do we run a 7/8" bore MC.

I have also found that the slaves once depressurized have a high likelihood of failure.... meaning I never install a used one unless it is 6 months old.

Start with the MC replacement and if the new one that doesn't leak works... run it. If not... replace the slave also.
The McLeod m/c adapter uses a wilwood 3/4" m/c that been modified to fit their bracket, so I have to stick with 3/4" for now.

Yeah, I should have replaced the slave when I was putting it together. But I was over budget, so was trying to save $$. Good thing it's only my time.

So I replaced the m/c, no change. So dropping the trans and replace the slave is next.
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Old 02-06-2019, 05:27 PM
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I've had the same Ram slave in my car for 7 years with zero issues with it on the hydraulic side, I had to replace the push on bearing once. I've not had much luck with the McCleod slaves living very long. I've had the best luck with Tilton masters. If your master had a short life I would double check your alignment to the clutch pedal, they don't like to be side loaded.
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Old 02-07-2019, 10:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 71RS/SS396 View Post
I've had the same Ram slave in my car for 7 years with zero issues with it on the hydraulic side, I had to replace the push on bearing once. I've not had much luck with the McCleod slaves living very long. I've had the best luck with Tilton masters. If your master had a short life I would double check your alignment to the clutch pedal, they don't like to be side loaded.
Tim,
The slave is original GM that came with the transmission. The McCleod kit came with pre-drilled clutch pedal, and the alignment looks to be dead on. If this still does not work, I'll switch to DSE set up with Tilton 7/8" master.

I already dropped the tranny, and it's wet around the fittings on the tick remote bleeder line. I was able to tighten it 1/8 of a turn. Think that's part of the issue. I'm going to replace the slave/clutch set up (unknown miles) with a slave/LS7 clutch set up.

Does any one know whether the Centerforce DYAD clutch can be rebuilt? A guy at Centerforce told me it can't be rebuilt, and I found it hard to believe.
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