I went the "el-cheapo" route and used the Rust-Oluem brand two-component epoxy from home depot. It has been holding up surprisingly well so far. There are of course better coatings out there, but, for the money spent, I am extremely happy with it.
About the only thing that can scratch it is DRAGGING something heavy with metal casters (like a loaded engine stand) across it AND the caster gets crossed-up...and even then, it only scratches the surface but doesn't ever chip or come up off the floor...My floor was bare concrete from 1986 to present and had plenty of oil staining, etc. The rustoleum kit came with citric acid (in powder form which you mix w/water) to clean/etch the concrete. No matter which system you go with, preparation will play the biggest role in getting good adhesion....Here are a couple pics:
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1969 Camaro/ Tom Nelson TT 434 / Wayne Due C5 / DSE QLink / and a bunch of other stuff...
I too went the cheap route and did it my self. Use the BEHR two part kit and then cleared over the top. Like the others have said it's a lot of prep time but worth it in the end. If I did it again I wouldn't use the flake.
__________________ Curtis
Pilots: We're not better than you, just way cooler.
We had a professional clean the floors and install Behr Epoxy on our shop floors.
So far, we have discovered that welding splatter doesn't seem to bother the coating very much. Water doesn't bother it much either.
ANYTHING ELSE WILL REMOVE IT WITH EASE
When we complained, we were told not to get those things on the floor-antifreeze, gas, oil, atf, brake fluid............
if you have a new house or a freshly poured slab wait at least a year before you coat it. It takes awhile for all the moisture to work it way out of a slab that is not exposed to any direct sun light.
Brian Hobaugh SCCA National Tour June 2014
First Hemi 'Cuda Convertible Ever Built
Short clips: Goodguys Pleasanton autocross and pit videos
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