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  #141  
Old 05-02-2021, 09:24 AM
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Original Lee Eng Box is out for rebuild.......
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  #142  
Old 06-12-2021, 04:44 PM
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Couple of minor issues...... Called Turn one about a couple of things..... #1 the pump was making a whirring sound and they explained to me that I had the Gravity feed line to the pump not in the optimum situation and the reservoir tank I was using didn't have flow diverters on the return lines inside the unit.....Bought a Concept One tank with those features and mounted the tank higher with a straight feed line to the pump....... Bingo..... Noise gone..... Turn one also rebuilt the Lee Steering box and everything is back to normal with great road feel........ Learn something every day.....

Ken
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  #143  
Old 06-18-2021, 06:51 PM
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Great to hear that you have the Lee box freshened back up and have also chased out the PS pump noise - hooray! Check that off the list now with a smile.

Ok, soap box time now: It absolutely astounds me after 21 years of owning / operating Hydratech that the aftermarket is still peddling PS reservoirs that are nothing more than a holding tank with zero regards to proper internal engineering. This is fine as a coolant overflow tank, but most definitely not acceptable for power steering use. The PS pump is to be fed a steady supply of calm de-aerated fluid right? This requires a PS reservoir to be more than just a can with some input / output fittings in it. If you think about it, a PS pump is a vane style pump that acts much like a turbine in its operations. Now take and run a high RPM spirited blast with the vehicle and it has the same net effect as putting a quart of PS fluid in a blender and hitting puree. This "agitated" fluid returns back to the PS reservoir, where it must be allowed as much "fluid dwell time" as possible before being sucked back into the PS pump again. This requires careful design to divert returning fluid away from the suction / feed / output port of the reservoir. Spoken the other way around for the sake of clarity, the fluid needs a moment to allow any aeration / foaming to float to the top and dissipate before being fed back to the PS pump. I will not "name names", but some of the larger highly vaunted companies out there produce these very good looking reservoirs, BUT zero - zip - zilch internal engineering, just a storage can. This then of course leads to PS system noise, possibly even failure, as aerated PS fluid will chatter the PS pump vanes leading to pump damage. One company even states that its PS pump is not compatible with hydroboost, when actually it is only a cover up for their poorly designed remote reservoir. Take this same company's front drive arrangement, remove their remote reservoir and replace it with say a Turn One or other properly designed reservoir and Presto! The system now runs just fine - go figure. They know it, but they aren't willing to do anything to improve their design. It sure is a shame to remove such a good looking reservoir from their front drive arrangement, but it just doesn't work properly.

Without going too far into PS reservoir design nuances, you really need two things:

Capacity, so that the returning fluid has a moment to dissipate any aeration (referred to as fluid dwell time). Would you put a 3 quart oil pan on your engine - um, no. Most all automotive enthusiasts know that you would instead install an oil pan with increased capacity. Same goes for the PS reservoir - the more capacity, the longer the fluid dwell time before it gets fed back into the PS pump.

Baffling, so that returning fluid is taken to the farthest possible point of the reservoir before being sucked back into the PS pump. This simply gives any aeration a chance to rise to the top. Even a standard engine oil pan still makes a good basic comparison, as it has some internal baffling to keep "windage whipped" oil from getting to the oil pump pickup before it has a chance to calm down a bit.

So when looking at a PS reservoir for your build, you can count on most OEM style PS pump reservoirs to have "million dollar engineering" behind what may just look like a basic holding tank. Take a look inside or cut one open and you will see baffling and flow diverters strategically placed. You will usually be fine running a factory pump with a matched reservoir. If looking at an aftermarket reservoir, make sure it has ample capacity and proper technology inside of it. Ken's whirring pump noise would have had most chasing the pump around, when it actually wan't the pump's fault at all, instead being the reservoir feeding it. One other point of mention is that most all OEM remote reservoirs have an average of a 5/8" inner diameter feed to the pump. -8 AN is a major culprit here, as the inner diameter is woefully inadequate, so make certain that you are looking at -10 AN. Even then, you may have to run some of these -10 adapters and fittings we have seen through a drill press if possible if you see the inner diameters are bottlenecked down too small. Last, but not least, you want to keep your distance between a remote reservoir and the pump as short and as straight as possible. Every harsh turn a fluid of most any sort takes is a restriction to flow...

Ok, of my soap box now! We just get sooooo many tech calls regarding this...

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  #144  
Old 06-20-2021, 07:47 AM
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Thanks for supplying Technical info that most of us wouldn't have a clue about....... Thanks again !!!!

Ken
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  #145  
Old 10-02-2021, 08:34 AM
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A little update...... After the LS transplant and installing all the Dakota Digital products ...... the car was Awsum....Chris took the car on the Hot Rod Power tour...... Driving to Ohio for the start everything was perfect...Then during the middle of the week the car started having some issues.....He called and told me the Dakota dash had only half the gauges working and the cooling fans wouldn't run....... Hummm!!!!!!......This happened sporadically....Hummmm!!!!........ They ended up adding a manual switch to turn the fans on and he made it home .......I was thinking it was a Dakota digital issue...... LOL..... after getting the car into Frame-up and Donnie and his crew looked into the issue....... They found that the OBD splitter harness I added for the ease of Scanning if required was the problem..... The Harness was the issue....... They removed it and plugged the OBD plug from the GM harness directly into the Dakota module and everything is perfect again..... Just wanted to post this because it might help somebody in the future......

Ken
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  #146  
Old 10-02-2021, 12:14 PM
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I have had issues on several builds due to the use of splitters. Some work and some don’t. The shorter ones that use ribbon cable or the ones without cable seem to work better.

I had one issue where the voltmeter wouldn’t work until I changed the bus address of the Dakota Digital BIM. You have four options for bus address in the BIM.

I spent some time looking to see if anyone made a bus buffer or expander without success.

Don
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  #147  
Old 10-03-2021, 08:16 AM
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Thanks for the heads up, I was thinking of using one .
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  #148  
Old 10-05-2021, 11:29 AM
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I have had good luck with this splitter

https://www.ebay.com/itm/333415688554



Don
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  #149  
Old 10-05-2021, 12:05 PM
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dhutton, you're an EE right?

I was under the impression that the signal couldn't be split and that the issue wasn't the splitter so much as the splitting of the signal. I tried a couple of splitters when the BIM modules first came out and was less than successful so I have always avoided them as a rule.

If you got tech to impart, I am interested. Thanks!
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  #150  
Old 10-05-2021, 12:27 PM
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Hi Donny. Ya retired EE. Well I have a couple of theories. With the long cables on the splitters there can be significant delayed reflections of the signals (caused by impedance mismatches) that can distort the signal. With the short lengths of the above splitter the reflections do not cause distortion. The other possibility is that the added capacitance of the cables is loading the signal but that seems less likely.

To be honest I haven’t been motivated enough to dust off my oscilloscope and look at the waveforms with and without the splitter.

Don

Last edited by dhutton; 10-05-2021 at 03:42 PM.
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