Metal Work Time Frame (for my '69 Firebird)?

[z4me69]

mini tub it you are replacing inner and outer tubs anyway. plus you are going to replace the trunk drops and you will find more rust when you cut it appart

[Ron Fox]

Originally Posted by ItDoRun

What about your tail panel too? I had to remove mine for the full trunk replacement.

Tail panel is in decent shape.

Is it possible to put in a Full Trunk (without cutting it in half) while the quarter is off?

[Ron Fox]

Originally Posted by GregWeld

SNOWBALL....... Coming in.....


Might as well mini tub it if you're there!

Yea, we are going to do the mini tubs since everything is going to be cut up and replaced with new metal. I know I would regret it if I did not put the tubs in.

[Ron Fox]

Originally Posted by 70rs

Hey Ron...welcome to the club!!

Thanks!

What's up with the new pic?

[Ron Fox]

Frank, you thought's please on metal work time?

Thanks.

[70rs]

Originally Posted by Ron Fox

Thanks!

What's up with the new pic?

Oh, the toilet? That is my special reminder to Greg for all of the love he showed after I dropped my phone in the toilet and lost all of my contact numbers. And it goes with the seat/lid he got for a christmas gift too!

[Ron Fox]

Originally Posted by 70rs

Oh, the toilet? That is my special reminder to Greg for all of the love he showed after I dropped my phone in the toilet and lost all of my contact numbers. And it goes with the seat/lid he got for a christmas gift too!

Bummer about the phone but a tolet seat for Christmas

[ProdigyCustoms]

Originally Posted by Ron Fox

Frank, you thought's please on metal work time?

Thanks.

Got your e mail. Sorry, I did not see this post. You did the right thing emailing me, I am working to many baords to catch every relevant post. I appreciate the fact you value my opinion

I have said this 100 times, and every time I do I get some builder pissed off PMing me wanting to know how the f__k we can give firm numbers. But the facts are the facts.

On basic sheetmetal work, and on paint work AFTER sheetmetal repairs are roughed in, there is NO REASON a shop should not be able to quote within 10% or so a final number. Sure there are surprises, but if the surprise is too big, the shop did not look things over well enough or low balled the estimate to get the job and the deposit. And that low balling to get it in the door happens more often then you may think.

As mentioned in this post, in the body shop world we work for "book hours". If you wreck you car, Gieco tells me how much they are paying to change a quarter based on the book. A old car is no different except where rust may be concerned, but that should be easy to spot and no reason a pro cannot hit that VERY close with a SMALL over / under number.

As mentioned above, if a shop is unwilling to do this, someone is going to get screwed, and most times, it will not be the shop! When a project is under bid either on purpose or by accident, at some point the shop has to make a decision, am I going to screw myself or the customer? guess who the loser is most times. The experienced guys on this forum that have built multiple cars will not get involved in open tickets, unless if is a SMOY car, or something totally wild. Known collectors know better to turn their car loose with no over / under numbers in place. Sure there are exceptions when their are relashioships, history and trust between a builder and a owner. We have a few of these customers.

In reference to this car.

I think the floor has been greatly underestimated. They are a PIA, a million spot welds, seat pans are a MFer, full trunk is no cake walk either. But if the quarters are off it helps the trunk install a bit. if doing a trunk and quarters, it is best to just do a tailpan, will actually speeds the process.

Tubs are a TINY bit easier if your doing trunk floor and quarters and outer wheel houses.


The numbers I quote are firm hours but do no include any inner panel repair should there be any. But with quarters, we will only do them with outer wheel houses anyway, and that is where most of the additional trouble will come from. Also, often times lower trunk drops have to be replaced, but if your doing a full floor, those need ot be done anyway.

SO PLEASE, no one confuse these hours with just a quarter, just a floor, we are trimming these hours for overlap, so the number for every panel is lower.

With that disclaimer

Full Floor / seat pans (20) hours
Full trunk floor (no tailpan or quarters) on (16)
trunk drops (included)
Rear body panel / inner lower (8)
Quarters W outer wheelhouse (15) each
Mini tubs (no crossmember) (24) add 6 hours for crossmember

So 100 hours

[Ron Fox]

Originally Posted by ProdigyCustoms

Got your e mail. Sorry, I did not see this post. You did the right thing emailing me, I am working to many baords to catch every relevant post. I appreciate the fact you value my opinion

I have said this 100 times, and every time I do I get some builder pissed off PMing me wanting to know how the f__k we can give firm numbers. But the facts are the facts.

On basic sheetmetal work, and on paint work AFTER sheetmetal repairs are roughed in, there is NO REASON a shop should not be able to quote within 10% or so a final number. Sure there are surprises, but if the surprise is too big, the shop did not look things over well enough or low balled the estimate to get the job and the deposit. And that low balling to get it in the door happens more often then you may think.

As mentioned in this post, in the body shop world we work for "book hours". If you wreck you car, Gieco tells me how much they are paying to change a quarter based on the book. A old car is no different except where rust may be concerned, but that should be easy to spot and no reason a pro cannot hit that VERY close with a SMALL over / under number.

As mentioned above, if a shop is unwilling to do this, someone is going to get screwed, and most times, it will not be the shop! When a project is under bid either on purpose or by accident, at some point the shop has to make a decision, am I going to screw myself or the customer? guess who the loser is most times. The experienced guys on this forum that have built multiple cars will not get involved in open tickets, unless if is a SMOY car, or something totally wild. Known collectors know better to turn their car loose with no over / under numbers in place. Sure there are exceptions when their are relashioships, history and trust between a builder and a owner. We have a few of these customers.

In reference to this car.

I think the floor has been greatly underestimated. They are a PIA, a million spot welds, seat pans are a MFer, full trunk is no cake walk either. But if the quarters are off it helps the trunk install a bit. if doing a trunk and quarters, it is best to just do a tailpan, will actually speeds the process.

Tubs are a TINY bit easier if your doing trunk floor and quarters and outer wheel houses.


The numbers I quote are firm hours but do no include any inner panel repair should there be any. But with quarters, we will only do them with outer wheel houses anyway, and that is where most of the additional trouble will come from. Also, often times lower trunk drops have to be replaced, but if your doing a full floor, those need ot be done anyway.

SO PLEASE, no one confuse these hours with just a quarter, just a floor, we are trimming these hours for overlap, so the number for every panel is lower.

With that disclaimer

Full Floor / seat pans (20) hours
Full trunk floor (no tailpan or quarters) on (16)
trunk drops (included)
Rear body panel / inner lower (8)
Quarters W outer wheelhouse (15) each
Mini tubs (no crossmember) (24) add 6 hours for crossmember

So 100 hours

Frank, thank you for elaborating on my question about metal work. It makes all the difference in the world to get your opinion and others opinions in here on car building. And like I have said in the past I have faith in my builder but I want to have knowlege in all area's of the build so I know what to expect and what to look for when each stage comes up.

Thanks again.