How do you do your gaps and alignment?

[T_Raven]

Originally Posted by elitecustombody

if there is no way to adjust the panels for better fit, on aftermarket panels,that would be the way out, but in my previous post I was referring to factory sheetmetal,which at one point in it's life when it came off assembly line had somewhat of a fairly decent fit ,I know it wasn't perfect,but workable without welding,

Ok, Gotcha

[DOOM]

Originally Posted by elitecustombody

if there is no way to adjust the panels for better fit, on aftermarket panels,that would be the way out, but in my previous post I was referring to factory sheetmetal,which at one point in it's life when it came off assembly line had somewhat of a fairly decent fit ,I know it wasn't perfect,but workable without welding,

What method would you use if this was'nt the case?? Just qurious...

[elitecustombody]

Originally Posted by DOOM

What method would you use if this was'nt the case?? Just qurious...

you already quoted my answer to your question

[The WidowMaker]

thanks guys. you can see in that top pic (if you click on it since i cant get them to show), that the edge of the door goes in slightly. when a straight edge is laid across the gap, there is a slight void in the middle. is this something you guys would pull or bump out, or is a little void normal? are we looking to make that joint PERFECTLY flat? i ask because when i sight down most cars, there is a disruption in the reflection which to me means its not a perfect transition. i guess what im asking is, is there a reason not to make it flat? i dont think so, but id rather ask.

also, same thing for the door panel itself on my chevelle. if a 3 foot straight edge is laid on end across the door, there is a 3/16" depression in the middle. its gradual across the entire door, and is close to the same on both original doors. is this normal?

Tim

[68protouring454]

as i said, get them as best as possible then go to filler/primer. every top shop does it that way.
And no welding solid rod and forming the gap is not butchering anything, its being a craftsmen so when metal finished you cant tell what went on other then the gaps are perfect. The key is to finish both sides not just the outside.
sounds like elite has not done many old cars, the gaps are no where near what new cars are.
I try to get everything as straight as possible. most camaros doors move in multiple directions and are different where the fender meets and where the quarter meets so they can only be so straight as the panels need to do different things in different areas.

[68protouring454]

Originally Posted by The WidowMaker

jake, if you laid a straight edge across, would it be perfectly flat, or are you just making it better. you can see in the top pic that i would have to add a little filler. would this be too much? would you tap the door edge out and try to make it even?



here are a couple of the how the panels sat 2 years ago. i spent about 8 hours cutting the back of the fender about every inch to get it to line up with the door.





here is a pic of the new built in desk for the kithcen. i spent about 3 months building the whole kitchen from scratch. i sprayed about 10 gallons of product between sealer, high build primer, pigmented conversion varnish and my clear topcoat cv. all had to be less than 4 mils total. wood cabinets are easier than a car, but it still gave me a ton of confidence to spray, now i just need to learn to bodywork metal.



Tim

top pick, depends on what the edge of the fender does, but yes work the door edge some more, then assemble whole car so all gaps are as good as you can get hood, fenders, doors. dont do any gap work unless entire car is together. then fit doors to quarters, then doors to fender the fender to hood and hood to header if car has header.
panels should have epoxy on them once metal worked, install then block over gaps and see exactely whats going on, and either work metal more or use filler, block and watch whats going on, to make perfect.

in the 2nd and third pics, they appear(in those pics) to be ready for skimming or poly primer (3-4 coats) and block sanding to make perfect.

[DOOM]

Originally Posted by elitecustombody

you already quoted my answer to your question

So adding rod to the edge is butchering... But if you have to, go head and do it Stefan... Not tring to bust chops here just tring to learn,I know you know what your talking about. But if I tried all that you said and still can't get a proper gap go head and weld the rod to the edge. So go head and butcher it Is'int this a contradiction. Help me understand. I have the same concerns and see alot of the top builders using this method. I also see them splitting the edge and filling the gap to tighten up the gap.Is this better? Have you done this? Butchering my car is the last thing I want to do..

[68protouring454]

Originally Posted by DOOM

So adding rod to the edge is butchering... But if you have to, go head and do it Stefan... Not tring to bust chops here just tring to learn,I know you know what your talking about. But if I tried all that you said and still can't get a proper gap go head and weld the rod to the edge. So go head and butcher it Is'int this a contradiction. Help me understand. I have the same concerns and see alot of the top builders using this method. I also see them splitting the edge and filling the gap to tighten up the gap.Is this better? Have you done this? Butchering my car is the last thing I want to do..

yes i use that method on trunk gaps, and hood gaps, alot easier to work.


shearing thin pieces of 18ga to fill split to weld, we spot(sparingly) ,with mig, then tig weld with silicon bronze alot of time, makes metal finishing so easy.

we sheared an even 1/4 piece till it tapered we then sheared the angled piece. all was butt welded, under neath was cleaned up as well. makes for the best gap repair possible.

[DOOM]

Originally Posted by 68protouring454

yes i use that method on trunk gaps, and hood gaps, alot easier to work.


shearing thin pieces of 18ga to fill split to weld, we spot(sparingly) ,with mig, then tig weld with silicon bronze alot of time, makes metal finishing so easy.

we sheared an even 1/4 piece till it tapered we then sheared the angled piece. all was butt welded, under neath was cleaned up as well. makes for the best gap repair possible.

Thanx great visual

[The WidowMaker]

jake, are you actually splitting the panel and widening the gap, or are you adding a vertical piece and then filling it in?