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  #11  
Old 10-09-2010, 09:11 PM
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Fluid Power Fluid Power is offline
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Yeah the stripper looks powerful strong. What are you using?

Super cool project!

Darren
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  #12  
Old 10-09-2010, 09:25 PM
TimeWarpF100 TimeWarpF100 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRCRFT78 View Post
Great looking build and such clean metal to start with.
What type of stripper did you use on the paint/body?
Been using the same stuff for approx 32yrs now!

Aircraft Remover by Klean Strip. They make both spray can and quarts/gallons. I normally keep some spray around but does not work as good.

That hood was ONE application of the stripper in approx 20min time.

The key is to not move it/brush it around much. Best is to pour and let run down saving what runs off and using it again. If its brushed on very thin it will take more applications. Pour it on without brushing on a vertical surface and it will start to peel within minutes. If many layers of paint and bondo it will take a few applications.

Key is to neutralize it with soapy water (Ivory Liquid) and a scotch bright before priming etc. Once surface is stripped and clean I then use a PPG metal conditioner to scrub the metal again prior to paint/primer. The metal conditioner also keeps it from surface rusting.
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Old 10-09-2010, 09:30 PM
TimeWarpF100 TimeWarpF100 is offline
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I also stripped the inside of fenders, the door jambs and cab floor along with underside were also sand blasted. The carts made blasting a breeze.

I use engine stands with a special attachment for the doors where I can have them stand up normal turn them around or even lay them flat for blocking. A fender stand was also made and fenders will pretty much stay there until complete, sanded, buffed and ready to go on. I do all the blocking, work, prime and paint on the stands.












Last edited by TimeWarpF100; 09-17-2014 at 11:08 PM.
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  #14  
Old 10-09-2010, 09:34 PM
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Great styling during those years and you certainly have a solid truck to start with it appears.

What kind of mods are you doing to the suspension?
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  #15  
Old 10-09-2010, 09:37 PM
TimeWarpF100 TimeWarpF100 is offline
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I will pick n' file and work the metal then apply the epoxy primer.

If there is a portion thats impossible to get straight I add a bit of old tyme lead work... and pick and file some more. Self taught but I get by... My style and technique is not like the pro's but gets the job done instead of farming anything out. I just do what works for me.


Fenders and doors in primer (PPG DPLF74)







Last edited by TimeWarpF100; 09-17-2014 at 11:10 PM.
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  #16  
Old 10-09-2010, 09:41 PM
TimeWarpF100 TimeWarpF100 is offline
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After metal prepped prior to the first primer.



Metal turns a blue/gold and no white in color then I know its ready.

Last edited by TimeWarpF100; 09-17-2014 at 11:10 PM.
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  #17  
Old 10-09-2010, 09:46 PM
TimeWarpF100 TimeWarpF100 is offline
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I then apply a few coats of "blocking" primer and sand until the fingertips are raw! Those nook and crannies underneath are torture. Of course a bit of guide coat is put on top and bottom in and out first. Once sanded smooth I apply another shot of primer and block all over again..... When happy I finally quit the priming and apply tinted sealer and paint...




Last edited by TimeWarpF100; 09-17-2014 at 11:12 PM.
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  #18  
Old 10-09-2010, 09:49 PM
TimeWarpF100 TimeWarpF100 is offline
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finally the hard work pays off!




Last edited by TimeWarpF100; 09-17-2014 at 11:12 PM.
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  #19  
Old 10-09-2010, 09:53 PM
TimeWarpF100 TimeWarpF100 is offline
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add the 2-tone color, glass and headliner and its ready to install on the chassis.






Last edited by TimeWarpF100; 09-17-2014 at 11:13 PM.
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  #20  
Old 10-09-2010, 09:56 PM
TimeWarpF100 TimeWarpF100 is offline
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add some disc brakes... (larger ones will be added at a later date)

drop in the completed center section...



Last edited by TimeWarpF100; 09-17-2014 at 11:14 PM.
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