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  #11  
Old 08-12-2008, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 4OfaKind View Post
Jody

I am planning a TT 383.

Do you have one tank for each valve cover or do you only need one tank off one cover for the whole engine?

If I ran a return drain line back to the oilpan will it defeat the purpose of the PCV system?

Mal
I run one tank per side. I do not run a pcv on a forced induction engine. A drain back to the pan is fine and eliminates having to drain the tank, but many like to get that cruddy milky oil out of the engine (take a look inside a breather tank sometime), so they keep it separate and drain periodically.

Jody
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  #12  
Old 08-12-2008, 07:42 PM
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Thanks Jody,

Excuse my ignorance on the PCV, but I know now. I appreciate the help.

Mal
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  #13  
Old 08-12-2008, 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 4OfaKind View Post
Thanks Jody,

Excuse my ignorance on the PCV, but I know now. I appreciate the help.

Mal
no ignorance involved, there are guys who keep pcv with forced induction. I've just found it as one more thing to go wrong, i.e. pulling oil into the intake system. I prefer a pair of good breather tanks.
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  #14  
Old 08-22-2008, 04:17 AM
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Jody-

Do you think that two vents, routed to tanks, would reduce pressure enough to solve the gasket issues without some sort of vacuum?
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  #15  
Old 08-22-2008, 09:34 AM
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Jody did you run a setup like this on your 406 Procharger motor to?
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  #16  
Old 08-22-2008, 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Y-TRY View Post
Jody-

Do you think that two vents, routed to tanks, would reduce pressure enough to solve the gasket issues without some sort of vacuum?
If two #10 lines to breather tanks don't solve a pressure issue, then there's a seal problem with the engine; i.e. rings, valves, etc. It works fine for a forced induction or n/a engine that is in good shape, but may not fix something that has bad leakdown numbers. That needs to be repaired first.

Jody
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Texas Speed and Performance for their 427 LS Stroker
American Powertrain for their ProFit Magnum T56 kit
Currie Enterprises for their 9" Third Member
Forgeline for their GF3 Wheels
McLeod Racing for their RXT street twin clutch
Ididit for their steering column
Holley for their EFI and engine parts
Lokar and Clayton Machine for their pedals and door and window handles
Morris Classic Concepts for their 3 point belts and side mirrors
Thermotec for their heat sleeve and sound deadening products
Restomod Air for their Tru Mod A/C kit
Mightymouse Solutions for their catch can
Magnaflow for their 3" exhaust system
Aeromotive for their dual Phantom fuel system
Vintage Air for their new Mid Mount LS front drive
Hydratech Braking for their hydroboost system
Borgeson for their stainless steering shaft and u joints
Eddie Motorsports for their hood and trunk hinges and misc parts
TMI Products for their seats, door panels, and dash pad
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  #17  
Old 08-22-2008, 05:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedugan View Post
Jody did you run a setup like this on your 406 Procharger motor to?

no, I made a spiral baffle that fit inside the Moroso stands and K/N breathers in the valve covers; the engine had good leakdown numbers and this was fine, never pushed any oil out of the breathers.
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Painless Performance for their wiring harness

Ron Davis Radiators for their radiator and fan assembly.
Baer Brakes for their front and rear brakes

Texas Speed and Performance for their 427 LS Stroker
American Powertrain for their ProFit Magnum T56 kit
Currie Enterprises for their 9" Third Member
Forgeline for their GF3 Wheels
McLeod Racing for their RXT street twin clutch
Ididit for their steering column
Holley for their EFI and engine parts
Lokar and Clayton Machine for their pedals and door and window handles
Morris Classic Concepts for their 3 point belts and side mirrors
Thermotec for their heat sleeve and sound deadening products
Restomod Air for their Tru Mod A/C kit
Mightymouse Solutions for their catch can
Magnaflow for their 3" exhaust system
Aeromotive for their dual Phantom fuel system
Vintage Air for their new Mid Mount LS front drive
Hydratech Braking for their hydroboost system
Borgeson for their stainless steering shaft and u joints
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  #18  
Old 08-25-2008, 08:33 AM
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Okay,

I have been watching this post and learning as much as possible. I plan to run a single catch can with a -10 line running off the back of each valve cover into a single tank.

there is also a good thread from a 2007 that i saved talking about this same thing.

http://www.performancetrucks.net/for...d.php?t=395799


Look at post # 22
http://www.performancetrucks.net/for...7&postcount=22

Quote:
For turbo cars I just run a big breather like that with 1 line from each valve cover going into it. If you don't like the fumes and want some vacuum under boost we use a catch can/seperator(big) and run a line to the turbo inlet piping.This will pull a vacuum under boost and help seal the rings.(If you run a filter which creates a slight restriction)
Jody - can you please add your wisdon to this I would really appreciate it.
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  #19  
Old 08-25-2008, 09:10 AM
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I figured out my issue with too much pressure. Leak down is terrible, so I've got something wrong in the motor. I will tear it down here in a couple of weeks. Its got 120 miles and hasn't got any better.

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  #20  
Old 08-25-2008, 09:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syborg tt View Post


Jody - can you please add your wisdon to this I would really appreciate it.
well, I have re-thought the breather line from the tank to the air filters. Still think it's the way to go, but you'll need an oil separator tank inline between the oil tank and air filter, or the extreme pull under boost from the air filter will pull oil right into the engine. At least that's what happened to me on my Chevelle. For now I've gone back to the breather caps on the tanks that Stef came with, and have disconnected the lines from the tanks to the filters. I'm not smelling or seeing any vapors anyway. Ideally the breather tanks would be separator tanks, so that the vacuum pull from the filters could only pull pressure, not oil. The Stef tanks I have are not and it pulls straight oil through if hooked to the filters.

Thing is, I'm not pushing any oil into the tanks, I haven't had any oil to drain out yet; but the vacuum pull from boosted turbo air filters will pull the oil from the engine, through the tanks, and into the turbos which is the last thing you want on a forced induction build.

Jody
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SPECIAL THANKS TO:
Jacob Ehlers and Amsoil for the lubricants and degreasers for my 70 Chevelle project
Shannon at Modo Innovations for the cool billet DBW bracket
Roadster Shop for their Chevelle SPEC Chassis
Dakota Digital for their Chevelle HDX Gauge Package
Painless Performance for their wiring harness

Ron Davis Radiators for their radiator and fan assembly.
Baer Brakes for their front and rear brakes

Texas Speed and Performance for their 427 LS Stroker
American Powertrain for their ProFit Magnum T56 kit
Currie Enterprises for their 9" Third Member
Forgeline for their GF3 Wheels
McLeod Racing for their RXT street twin clutch
Ididit for their steering column
Holley for their EFI and engine parts
Lokar and Clayton Machine for their pedals and door and window handles
Morris Classic Concepts for their 3 point belts and side mirrors
Thermotec for their heat sleeve and sound deadening products
Restomod Air for their Tru Mod A/C kit
Mightymouse Solutions for their catch can
Magnaflow for their 3" exhaust system
Aeromotive for their dual Phantom fuel system
Vintage Air for their new Mid Mount LS front drive
Hydratech Braking for their hydroboost system
Borgeson for their stainless steering shaft and u joints
Eddie Motorsports for their hood and trunk hinges and misc parts
TMI Products for their seats, door panels, and dash pad
Rock Valley Antique Auto Parts for their stainless fuel tank

Last edited by camcojb; 08-25-2008 at 09:13 AM.
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