1970 Coronet Super Bee a.k.a Project Plan Bee

[SuperB70]

Thanks guys for kind words.

Time to hang the quarters.

All is build so that the new repro stock width will fit. Now days all is about wide body.

Should I do that..?

No, I'll "massage" just a little, for the rear tubs. 1/2" wider from the middle. Just used kick shrinker to shrink pie cuts to the top flance. Tricky to get them done and then copy to other side.

First thing is to sand them clean and paint inside with same 2-k epoxy as everything else. Left strip at the edge without paint. Will paint after welding and hammering. Also installed some sound deadening. Got carried away abit. Nobody will ever see, but had to do it..

Tig welded all around. Exept the wheel arches. Those I glued with 2-k body adhesive. Really strong stuff. Area of finger tip (1cm2/ 0.15sq in) will hold 200kg (440lbs). Glue is closed cell stuff. will not absorb moisture. Also fitted quarter extensions witch I made years ago in Per the Metalman Sweden's shapping class with Ben, father of the Mechhammer.

Need to finish the seams, slapper, shrinking disc, hammer and dolly to get everything straight and smooth.

Next is time to modified the front fender wheel arches and I already have started to with rear end, full floater.. again some thing different.. When some careful calculations and I can order my wheels..

[SuperB70]

Rear end time.

Have build few 9" good and pro versions
(read expensive and bonkers expensive)
I dont have that kind of money or dont want to spend them on those.
Also I need low ratio gears. Low 3 something.
Trans dont have long overdrive (0.83) and engine will not turn high rpm.
So if I want car to have any kind of higher (expected) top speed, I need gears. And when Gear Vendor has not return my enquiring.. LoL
-"I need GV-OD to SLR MCLaren Mercedes.." 8)
Have seen many times that all 9" low gears sets without FORD stamping will be loud, sooner or later.
So 9 inch was out.

So something else...

Started looking strong alternative. One of the first looked Dana 70.
But I chosed Ford 9.75". From F150 with 3.08:1. Will be with True-trac.

Some of you may remember that I discuss about this at rear end section with my first design.

Idea is to build full floater with modern easy to get new, affordable parts. Had to forget single bold systems, dont want to start fab wheel arches. Actually they went to my customer project.

After rear end arrived from States,
I disassembling it and started to design needed parts/ tools. Had local laser shop cut parts, local machine shop machine turned tools for me. Years biggest car show was around the corner and had to spread workload. And I fractured my index finger at work.
Tools is to get tolerance grinded 50mm /2" solid bar in the middle of carrier side bearings place.
Inserting tools to fit in tolerance machined wheel bearing hubs, so that 50mm bar is in the middle and can be used to verify hub to be at axle center line.
Installed heat to slide on axle tube, shrank to lock hubs to correct width, tig weld them with using insert tools. Also use them to check that hubs still where in the middle of the axle center line.. Wheel bearing hubs are from Cadillac CTS-V, so is backing plate, parking brake, 4 pot Brembo calibers and 14.5" aftermarket rotors.



Axles will be done by me with 4axle cnc lathe..
From 300M high strength steel, again from our local steel factory.
Ford has 34 splines, Caddy has 33 splines.
They actually are done in now, real time. Yesterday did first tool paths for them.

Wheel bearing hubs still need to be lighten, will do that when welding brake caliber brackets on them. Also fab more stiffing to the link brackets and axle tubes..

Rear end will be hang with double adj. coil overs, 2.5" air jacks and 3 link, was easy to calculate bar lines, angles and lengths when car is on the frame table. Bars are made from that Docol R8 high strength tubing, CNC machined threaded ends.

Forged M20 spherical rod ends are modified, bearing halfs and balls are pressed off, made simple molds and took them to my friends company. They will cast polyurethane buslings on them. More about them later. Another great idea for sure.. I just hate solid rod ends, all the noise come straight through. Great for race car but not for Grand Tourer.

Drive shaft will be another challenge. Trans has fixed flance( from IRS rear), drive shaft would need to have slide and hold around 1500 ft lbs of tq.
But I've an idea.. (an wild idea)

Havent decided whether to buy the diff cover or make my own... I do have many cnc machines at my disposal now days..

Now I can measure and order my wheels... Something different for sure, again..

[ScotI]

Thanks for continuing to post updates. This is an incredible build!

[Jimbo1367]

I’m have to start checking this build out from the beginning when I get time. It’s badazz

[SuperB70]

Wheels are here.

I wanted european supercar style, no 2 to 4" lip for me.

from OZ Racing, Italy. No super $$ 3 piece forged for this, again this is gonna see road alot. But these are real racing grade heat threaded wheels, not anyway any "oriental cheap suprises"..

Fronts are basic list wheels 8.5 x19. Wanted to run with 18" but those brakes that "dropped" to my lap don't fit in. Had to upgrade to 19s.

Rear one are custom ordered 12x19". Had to settle for 5x130mm bolt pattern (911 Porsche CUP blank) but ordered same time 15mm (¨1/2") boltable spacer/pattern changers. 5x130/5x114.3. TUV- proof so I can run them here in the street.

Tires are 245-45-19 and 345-35-19
Front ones are brand new Continentals but I choose them by close matching thread pattern.
Rear ones are Bridgestone Potenza, kind of funny case:
bought outdated ones from Europe. When arrived, was confused why sticker says Enzo '02- and "SCUDERIA" embossed on the side of the tire.
After some google research: "RE050 scuderia" founded out that these are Enzo factory installation tires..got 2 pairs of them. They where dirty cheap, so no problems burn them setting and testing traction control..

Brakes are made by Brembo.
381mm/ 15", 6 piston fixed mounted front calibers and
368mm/ 14.5", 4 piston fixed mounted rear calibers. Parking brake shoes inside rotors as shown at rear end post.

Last pic is tease about what to come.. if you have followed, you may remember that I've moved front axle 3" forward.. Have to make those fit..

Later..

[camcojb]

The wheels and brakes look great.

[groovyjay]

Looks great, love the wheel choice. Tulee vitun hieno!

[Mikael A]

Some cool stuff going on here,keep you the good work.

[syborg tt]

Wow is this an awesome build.

Thank you for sharing this build.


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[SuperB70]

Front fender time.

Since I moved front axle 3" forward, I need to modified my steel fenders to fit.
And with 19" wheels, stock wheel arches (for 14") doesent fit quite right.
Now is good time to make the chances, plan how to cut is critical.
Want to keep side markers, one thing that makes musclr car different than our "normal" euro- or japanise cars.
New wheels and modded frame forged me to rise arches 2" to clear wheel when turning. Also arches looked tobe little too long for my taste so I nipped 1" way from the middle. That turned me to add 4" add the back cut line.

Good fitment, tig welding, relentless hammer and dolly work and you dont see the seams anymore. I could slap and shrink them to smooth but why? they will get coated/ bondo'ed (even thin skin)/painted anyway.
Driver side fender have had some kind of fender bender so I chanced front part, so many screw pulley hammer hoses that no point to weld them.

In one pic you can see how I fix are when it has got "fed up" cant shrink anymore. Cut round circle out and weld new piece. Try to avoid sharp corners. Doesent shrank so much...

Is it just me or those 19" wheels and 15" rotors dont look that (mean too) big anymore...

Now I can start planning side skirts.. Dont want too much but want something.. One idea is to make Viper like side exhaust inside rockers... Mufflers, yes you guested. Have to be made...

Again, I will leave something coming to last pic.

After I made brakets and bolded fender on, I realized: HOLLY CRAP!!
there will be 90cm (3ft!!) from grill to water pump pulley..
I have some real estate for my serios cooling systems...
Tell me, should I post teaser, what I have come up..

up to next one..