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Old 07-26-2020, 11:09 AM
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lsuguy lsuguy is offline
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Default Issues with Hydratech Hydroboost / Baer Remaster

So I started the process of bleeding my brake system yesterday and after hours of not getting anywhere I discovered that the back of my Baer Remaster is leaking fluid. In addition to this, with the pedal fully released (no brake engagement) fluid will come out of the proportioning valve. Looking for some advice from you guys as I am about ready to pull my hair out at this point. A few questions below:

Keep in mind this is a completely new system with all new parts and components.


1.) What could cause the rear of the MC to leak. I pulled it back out of the car, removed the cylinder out of the MC and the seals appear to be fine. I plan to call Baer on Monday to ask them, but doesn't make a whole lot of sense for a brand new MC to be leaking

2.) Is it possible that the stroke on the Hydroboost unit is causing the MC to leak? I wouldn't think so, but figured I would ask.

3.) Does anyone know what could be causing the master cylinder to drain fluid through the proportioning valve, even when the pedal isn't pushed? My first thought is that the hydroboost unit is pre-loading the MC, but I don't see how. The Baer MC has a cavity probably an inch deep and the push rod on the boost unit does not stick out anywhere near that far.

4.) Are there any simple clearance issues/measurements that I need to perform to make sure this isn't a simple fix? Right now I don't have any spacers between the MC and the boost unit, or any of the inserts in the MC to reduce the travel on the pushrod.

Thanks in advance. So very close to driving the car and this has me completely stumped.

Last edited by lsuguy; 07-26-2020 at 11:18 AM.
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  #2  
Old 07-28-2020, 09:21 PM
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Question Stop pulling your hair out

Ok, so your car is a female (lol?) It is odd to have brake fluid leaking as described, but leaks can be obnoxiously tricky to nail exactingly, as fluids like to leach and seep around to places that would mislead you into thinking the origin of a leak could be somewhere it is not. When these problems strike here, I use a ridiculously bright million candlepower LED spotlight, magnifying mirrors, clean dry rags, and a person in the vehicle to actuate the braking. I insist on clearly seeing a leak in motion repetitiously to be certain of where its true origin is. Brake fluid really can play some games with you almost more than other fluids. You definitely have the problem isolated, but could it be as simple as loosening and retightening the brake lines a few times to establish a good seat / seal at these connection points? If I understand correctly, you are experiencing leakage without any actuation - literally a gravity based leak. If I was there, I would leave everything connected (brake lines) but unbolt the MC from the face of the brake assist unit and coax it forward a couple of inches. With it just sitting there all by itself, the clean dry rag, ultra bright light, and magnifying mirrors ought to nail exactly where the fluid is emanating from, then correct as needed.

As far as the hydroboost? It has the same stroke as a vacuum booster, so no weirdness there. I could be wrong, though it sounds like you may have a problem of having one of our short MC pushrod models, where the tip of the MC pushrod sits well below the MC mounting surface, but interfacing with a deep / early GM pushrod style hole in the back of the MC. This isn't going to cause the brake fluid leak, but you need to install the spacer bullet / slug / plug into the backside of the master cylinder. Alternately, if you have our model with the MC pushrod that protrudes out a good 1 1/4" +/-, then you would not use any spacer bullet. You have to get this right. If you by chance want to do a quick check to see where you are at for MC pushrod clearances, you can put a dab of white lithium grease on the tip of the MC pushrod and then place the MC up against the brake unit. If all is in basic range, it should leave some witness / grease transfer to the MC piston. We have pulled back our MC pushrod lengths a few thousandths over the years, as we would rather have an air gap between the pushrod and the MC pistons as opposed to the opposite where the MC pistons aren't being allowed a full state of release against the snap ring in to the back of the MC (leading to dragging brakes). You are not going to feel a .020 - .030 air gap in the brake pedal response, but you will certainly notice hot dragging brakes if the MC pistons are preloaded. Also, contrary to some misinformation out on the internet, note that the adjustable brake pedal pushrod under the dash has nothing what so ever to do with MC pushrod to MC piston clearances. This adjustment under the dash is only for the purpose of setting the brake pedal height to suit your particular tastes.

Overall, I'm sure Baer will or already has you covered as needed. I know it's frustrating, but you are almost there. Stay patient and clear headed, and stop pulling your hair out (!)

Do let us know what you ultimately find, as so many of these forum posts never wrap up with what the actual problem was found to be and the remedy that solved for it.



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  #3  
Old 07-29-2020, 10:20 AM
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Thanks for the detailed response. I pulled the MC off of the car put it back on the bench and cleaned it well with brake cleaner. I think you are correct in that there was a leak from elsewhere and the fluid creeped into crevices and slowly seeped out from a completely different area than where the leak originated.

I swapped over to some bonded crush washers that seal on all banjo bolts, retorqued and so far so good. The lid on the MC was also loose, so anyone using a Baer Remaster needs to do a check on the lid bolts as well.

Thanks for the insight on the spacer bullet. I specifically asked that question to Baer and they never provided a clear answer. I suspect part of my issues with bleeding the brakes are that the rod on the boost unit is not fully stroking the MC. I am going to give it another go tonight after work and will follow up.
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Old 07-29-2020, 07:29 PM
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Baers customer support is top notch. A buddy had one of these Remaster MC's with the same issue you're describing and they sent him a whole new one.

I plan to run one too, I'd definitely give them a call and get back to us with the results.
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Old 08-08-2020, 06:28 PM
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Question No news is good news ?

Did we get it handled? All set now? Or are you stuck waiting on a replacement MC to arrive? Just curious - please follow up when you get a moment.

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