C6 Brakes or ..............?

[fatlife]

sold them awhile ago, made a few bucks too and I wouldn't recommend ceramic pads, well at least not fully ceramic, if I recall full ceramic pads don't give as good braking, but they are really quiet and dust free

[tyoneal]

Thanks for all the great post.

Let me re-phrase the question, based on the following specs.

1) fits 69 Camaro w/ 17 and/or 18 inch wheels

2) Good value for the money (This doesn't mean the cheapest)

3) Good variety of pads available

4) Pads easy to change, so for street or track use can be quickly changed (Would like to be able to drive the car hard on occasion)

5) Pads priced competitively

If possible what are your top 2 or 3 choices for these items, and why?

Thanks,

tyoneal

[fatlife]

C5 and for all the reasons you just listed

[chicane]

Standard C5/6. Parts availability is a no brainer and there are plenty of pads available. Good system, well thought out (or the OEM wouldnt use them to begin with) and an easy system to adapt. And the system cost is a real plus.

The PBR Z06 stuff is junk. Its pretty sad when a supplier can not provide both right and left specific rotors required to keep up with production ?? (Geeze, lets ship the systems with two lefts instead ) Way too many problems right out of the box and maintenance is a PITA.... not to mention that pad replacement cost is a joke as well. The performance feed back I have recieved isnt all of what I thought either..... I was expecting so much more. Its is a great system for a street based chassis, but from what the boys have been telling me, they dont cut it for a serious track day.

Next.... and my first choice, as this is what I am running myself on my 67. APRacing CP5555 fronts and CP5147 rears. They are much better than most available mono blocks for any kind of money (this side of any caliper that cost $3k each). Better performance and cost wise over the Baer 6S/R systems that is for sure. They are lighter, stiffer and some of the available options are priceless. You can utilize a stock C5/6 rear parking brake mechanism and it is a true bolt on. If you can use a C5/6 package, these will fit. I would however recommend an 18" wheel package.... as the rotors are a 14x1.4 front and a 13x1.0 rear.

Front:
Brake Manufacturer: AP Racing
Caliper/Piston Number: CP5555, differential bore six-piston
Rotor Manufacturer: AP Racing
Rotor Type: Slotted 2 pc, McLaren floaters
Rotor Dimensions: 355mm x 35.5mm (14 x 1.4")
Wheel/Tire Size: 18x9.5 265/40/18
Tire make/model: BFGoodrich g-Force T/A KD
Brake Line: Stainless 3/16" hardline, Goodridge SS Flex lines
Brake Fluid: Motul RBF 600
Pad type/compound: Ferodo 2500
Master size: 7/8"
Weight: 33.5 lbs
Combined left and right: 67 lbs



Rear:
Brake Manufacturer: AP Racing
Caliper/Piston Number: CP5147, four-piston
Rotor Manufacturer: AP Racing
Rotor Type: Slotted 2 pc, **NEW** Iron hat, factory e-brake compatible
Rotor Dimensions: 330mm x 25.5mm (13 x 1")
Wheel/Tire Size: 18x9.5 275/40/18
Tire make/model: BFGoodrich g-Force T/A KD
Brake Line: Stainless 3/16" hard line, Goodridge SS Flex lines
Brake Fluid: Motul RBF 600
Pad type/compound: Pagid RS421
Master size: 1"
Weight: 27.5 lbs
Combined left and right: 55 lbs



This is the Holy Grail of brake systems.

I have installed and used various systems from every manufacturer..... (Alcon, AP Racing, Brembo, CNC, PBR, Perf Fric, JFZ, Stoptech and Wilwood) which also goes for pad/compounds (Axxis, Carbotech, Ferodo, Hawk, Pagid, Perf Fric, Porterfield, Poly Matrix, Raybestos and Mintex). The modulation, fade resistance, predictability and shear stopping power of these independant systems is nothing short of phenomenal.

Think.... 60-0 in under 90 feet.

C5/6 think.... 60-0 in around 105-112 feet.

[fatlife]

So you like the ferrodos? they work killer on my bike. Haven't tried them on a car yet, but they will definetly be the first co I will consider.

BTW great post

[chicane]

Originally Posted by fatlife

So you like the ferrodos? they work killer on my bike. Haven't tried them on a car yet, but they will definetly be the first co I will consider.

Well..... I havent had any time on the 67 yet.... due to...... well, lets just leave it at that.

But.... I have driven the DS2500's quite a bit in other chassis (specifically the C4 with some rather large Brembo's mounted) and I do like them. They have great cold bite and a pretty constant CF over the temperature band.

I however, really like the Pagid RS421's.... but you have to keep some temperature in them or they tend to be a little abrasive. Not too bad, but they will still lathe metal just fine when cold.

But my all time favorite street worthy pad is Porterfield's R4-S..... that would be the first pad I would try if you are up for a pad change. Then again......... do they make them for bike's !?!! I dunno.... Ill have to give ole Andy or Timmy a call.

[chicane]

Hey fathead....... clean out your in box so I can PM you.

DuH.

[Blown353]

Sorry for the quick sidetrack...

Originally Posted by chicane

But my all time favorite street worthy pad is Porterfield's R4-S..... that would be the first pad I would try if you are up for a pad change. Then again......... do they make them for bike's !?!! I dunno.... Ill have to give ole Andy or Timmy a call.

Hey Tom, can you switch from R4-S to a set of R4 pads without having to rebed?

I'm in need of new brake pads on both my cars (the Chevelle and my Subaru STI) and I need street compounds for both plus a track compound for the STI (and eventually a track compound for the Chevelle.) Being able just to swap pads and go would be nice. I know Carbotech advises you can swap their pad compounds and not have to re-bed, can you do that with the Porterfields?

Also, how's the dust on the R4s? Is it corrosive? I'd rather not eat my wheels up as I don't have a set of track-only wheels for either car.

Finally, what's your opinion on the Carbotech compounds in general? I was also considering Bobcats for the street and probably Panther Plus for track duty.

[chicane]

I am gonna have to say..... yes. They are pretty much the same compound and the only real difference is that you have to keep some heat into them or they will remain in an abrasive mode until you do. Think brake lathe.

The reason I know this ?? During the development I ran them on the street and took..... ahhh..... somewhere like 0.090" off of each surface (0.180" total) in less than 30 days. They never got hot enough to go into an adhearent mode.... but man did they ever stop !!!

If in doubt, call Andy or (most likely) Tim 949-548-4470. I cannot say for sure, but I am almost positive that you can with the "R4 - R4S" series compound.

Dust and the R4-S isnt too bad considering. The R4 compound however, will embed anything shiny. I killed a set of trim rings from that 30 day stint alone. I dont really know if it was more of carbon deposites or if it was the actual rotor material that embedded. Just remember to rinse them often and the best cleaner I have found for this is Eagle One's "etching mag wheel cleaner".

Havent really had any seat time with Bobcats.... the Panther+ however, were'nt all that bad as I remember. I think the limiting factor there was caliper availablity when I was doing a lot of brake testing.

[Blown353]

Thanks for the info Tom.

Part of my inquiry about your impression of the Carbotechs is that at least for the STI the Bobcats are substantially cheaper than the R4-S, $50 cheaper for the fronts and $25 cheaper for the rears. That'll buy an axle's worth for the Chevelle. Autocross guys report they are very happy with the Bobcats. I obviously wouldn't subject them to an HPDE though being it's their "street" pad.