Rushforths are here!!! - Lateral-g Forums

1960LesPaul · #1 08-10-2008, 11:55 AM

Got them on the car and they look great but really show now that the the car needs to be lowered bad. I was hoping to do CPP big 4 wheel disc brake set up but now I think I need to work on the suspension first.

My biggest problem is I am rubbing bad. My rear end isn't square so I thought I would have to massage the wheel lip on the drivers side but I am rubbing on the passenger side inside and out. This is the side that has me puzzled. Why is it rubbing on the outside when I now have more room then when the 9.5 TTII's were on it. I guess since this wheel and tire combo (295/40/20 is much taller then the old set up that it is putting the sidewall bulge right on the quarter lip and because I need to shore up the rear end wiggle it's touching because of too much side to side travel. Does this sound reasonable?

Since I need to do some work on the rear what to you think of the CPP rear end setup with all 4 trailing arms and sway bay with brand new bushings? And maybe some QA-1 shocks with lowering springs? In the mean time we are going to trim the lips some more. here is a link. It's the top one on left.

http://www.classicperform.com/NewPro...iling_Arms.htm

**JayR** · #2 08-10-2008, 12:43 PM

Hey Frank, Glad to hear you got your wheels, sorry to hear you're having issues though.

We've fit that size on a ton of Chevelles with no issues and even bigger tires so it's definitely time for a few upgrades and some gentle trimming and massaging and we'll get them on there. It looks like you're running fenderwell trim which always has a thick flange so if you trim that where it meets the sidewall, it will get you some room. Is your car undercoated? That stuff builds up especially if your fenderwell has any outies from stuff sliding around in the trunk. A putty knife and a rubber mallet should cure any issues on the inside. Then finally, the kit you found from CPP and some adjustable shocks like VariShocks from ChassisWorks will take care of the rest and get everything tightened up.

We're dealers for CPP and ChassisWorks so call Jon Monday and he'll get you taken care of and also offer any other suggestions I haven't touched on because he has been there.

The WidowMaker · #3 08-10-2008, 04:09 PM

i wouldnt buy the cpp kit, but thats me. look into the currie stuff. much more expensive, but youll only have to do it once. the currie lower arms arent really needed, but the uppers are. if youre not running a lot of power to the wheels, then the edelbrock uppers (with the copied currie johnny joint) will do just fine.

you need to put a rubber bushing in the housing ears to avoid bind. its also a good idea to put one on one end of the lowers as well.

i bought the umi kit, but now im regretting it. the upper arms are getting a johnny joint on the frame end, and im swapping to rubber bushings in the housing.

if i had it to do over, i would have bought some dom tubing and a couple of johnny joints for the lowers and then bought the currie uppers. mark at sc&c is also coming out with a new swaybar in the next few weeks. it will be adjustable and mount to the crossmember instead of the lower control arms.

also, if youre going to pay the money for a midgrade (great street shock), you might as well get the varishocks vs the qa1's. talk to jon for a good price on these.

1960LesPaul · #4 08-10-2008, 04:17 PM

Jay I didn't mean to suggest any fault of you or Jon. I knew I might have a problem cause I was getting a minor rub on occasion with the other set up. I was hoping more backspace would cure it. I am not worried about the inside. Widow all that was over my head lol.

**JayR** · #5 08-10-2008, 05:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1960LesPaul

Jay I didn't mean to suggest any fault of you or Jon. I knew I might have a problem cause I was getting a minor rub on occasion with the other set up. I was hoping more backspace would cure it. I am not worried about the inside. Widow all that was over my head lol.

Thanks for that, Frank! And I didn't mean for my reply to seem like an upsell, we just want to help if we can.

Tim/Widowmaker has some great insight and is building one of the baddest Chevelles I've had the pleasure to draw up so he knows what he's talking about and has done the research and would probably be open to picking his brain.

1960LesPaul · #6 08-10-2008, 07:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JayR

Hey Frank, Glad to hear you got your wheels, sorry to hear you're having issues though.

It looks like you're running fenderwell trim which always has a thick flange so if you trim that where it meets the sidewall, it will get you some room.

Well my quarter lip sticks out past the trim so I have been trimming that back but there are a couple of welds that I am close to now so my buddy is going to drill out holes behind those welds and reweld. Then when can cut alot more out and should give me the room for big brakes as long as I get this rearend shimmy taken care of.

1960LesPaul · #7 08-10-2008, 07:55 PM

Tim is this what you are referring to? http://www.scandc.com/currectrac.htm Also all I want to do is shore the rearend up and stop the rub. I am sure if I were to only replace the rear bushings I would be ok so with that said what is the best bang for the buck. Since I am going to have to replace bushings then I might as well upgrade a bit within reason. I am running a mild 454. If I were to run the arms that I listed (currectrac) with this rear sway bar (Hellwig) http://www.scandc.com/hellwigswaybars.htm would that do the trick? Which Varishock 1 or 2 and what would you suggest for a rear spring? Keep in mind that I want to lower the car some.

The WidowMaker · #8 08-10-2008, 08:52 PM

the rearend will move a little, but if you have worn out original rubber bushings its going to move a whole lot more. as far as not being square, do you mean it sits to one side, or is the housing turned? there are a few things that can cause that, but new control arms might just solve both issues. plus upper adjustables allow us to move the rear to one side or the other since they are what locates the rear.

Quote:

Tim is this what you are referring to? http://www.scandc.com/currectrac.htm

yep those are the ones, but as you can see they are pricey. id buy the uppers and look somewhere else for some lower ones that are cheaper. the axle mount side of the currie uppers is a little beefier than the edelbrocks, but if youre not running 500+ hp, i dont see why they wouldnt suffice. just make sure you put rubber bushings back in the housing so you get a little compliance.

also, id talk to tobin at kore3 about a brake setup when you are ready. i originally bought the cpp stuff, but wasnt really happy. i sold it and went with the c6 z06 stuff. tobin has a few different options, but the c5/6 setup is comparable to the cpp and much better. its actually meant to work together, rather than pairing a silverado truck front caliper with a 90's lincoln rear caliper.

call jon on the varishocks. i know hes a dealer and he can give you some good advice.

Tim

1960LesPaul · #9 08-10-2008, 10:18 PM

My rear end sits closer to the driver side so I have less clearance on that side. Do you think that by installing those uppers I can pull it back to square? You also mention installing the rubber bushings. Don't they come with them? And yes the Currie Lowers are expensive. The CPP lowers are Dom tubing and 160 cheaper. Would they work?

The WidowMaker · #10 08-11-2008, 12:43 AM

the uppers will center your housing.

i wouldnt spend that much on the cpp lower. the umi lower is the same thing and still cheaper. they want 130+ shipping, but ill sell you the ones on my frame for 100+ shipping. they are based and cleared and as you can see from the pics, its never been driven. the umi lowers come with bushings, but youll have to buy the rubber bushings for the upper ears of the housing. i dont know of a set that comes with rubber bushings.

Tim