...

Go Back   Lateral-g Forums > Lateral-G Open Discussions > Project Updates
User Name
Password



Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #31  
Old 12-10-2022, 08:12 PM
1_Car_Guy 1_Car_Guy is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2022
Posts: 30
Thanks: 6
Thanked 67 Times in 21 Posts
Default

Entry 14: 12/10/2022

Been a while since I updated this. Stopped over once or twice between this post and the last. Started burning out some old bondo near the driver side door. Wasn't a lot, but enough.

When it was originally hit back in 1981 - looks the body shop salvaged the original door. In the process of their repair, they grinded a bit too thin in a few spots and instead of spot welding, grinding smooth etc., they went straight for the bondo. You can kind of see what I'm talking about in one of those pics where I started grinding it out/burning.

Burning bondo out I can handle, door skin repair is well out of my wheelhouse. Leaving that task to the shop. Overall, there's no rot which isn't a surprise, but that shady door repair was.

Some more bondo near passenger side rear wheel well, some more above driver rear wheel. Passenger rocker panel is solid but slightly bent from a floor jack, need to replace that.

Ordered new hood hinges - wanted to salvage original but too much trouble for what it's worth in time. Ordered all new hardware for sheet metal. Silly me thought bagging and tagging every bolt, nut, washer 7 years ago was worth it.

Check out that door gap. Look better than the day I ripped the thing apart.
Attached Images
      
Reply With Quote
The Following 5 Users Say Thank You to 1_Car_Guy For This Useful Post:
Goosesdad (08-04-2023), jarhead (05-05-2023), Roscoe03 (12-12-2022), syborg tt (12-14-2022), WSSix (12-17-2022)
  #32  
Old 12-27-2022, 03:41 PM
1_Car_Guy 1_Car_Guy is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2022
Posts: 30
Thanks: 6
Thanked 67 Times in 21 Posts
Default

Entry 15: 12/27/2022

Started stripping to bare metal with a combination of razor blades and the DA. Started off pretty well until I got to the driver's side rear quarter and door.

Unbeknownst to me, when the driver's side door/cowl section/rear quarter was hit back in the 80s...looks like the repair shop salvaged the original sheet metal, fixed the dents and used bondo for repairs.

These are expenses I wasn't planning on. I was well aware there was no rust/rot...but silly me assumed the repairs from yesteryear used NOS/salvaged sheet metal.

Oh well what can you do. Ordered up a new rear quarter panel and located a salvaged door from another 76. I was worried about going too far with the DA and possible warping panels due to heat/my inexperience...so we won't have any full car in bare metal shots...letting the shop handle the rest

These are photos from where I left off last weekend:
Attached Images
    

Last edited by 1_Car_Guy; 12-27-2022 at 03:49 PM.
Reply With Quote
The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to 1_Car_Guy For This Useful Post:
camcojb (12-27-2022), Goosesdad (12-31-2022), syborg tt (03-16-2023)
  #33  
Old 02-02-2023, 03:40 PM
1_Car_Guy 1_Car_Guy is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2022
Posts: 30
Thanks: 6
Thanked 67 Times in 21 Posts
Default

Entry 16: 2/2/2023

Stopped by the shop the other day; new rear quarter and door roughly in place. Some pictures below of that. I still don't know how to add an image correctly, where/how I can write, add an image and keep writing again. Whenever I add photos they simply appear at the bottom of the post by default. Also, how big should I have the photos? 600 x 600 seems about right...right?

One more thing to add here. A few years back I added a T56 hump panel to the transmission tunnel; the first bit of welding I ever did myself. Not sure if it was necessary since the car was a 4-speed from the factory. I didn't have a T56 magnum laying around at the time so I kind of just guessed - but IIRC instruction specified that it should sit essentially where the factory hole was (I guess we'll find out!). The hump does clear the factory console, luckily.

I bring this up because I got the urge to explore other manual transmission options since T56 conversions are the norm. Budget considered...with what I'm trying to do (with a 3,500 lb. car, drag radials, ladder bars and 700 ft. lb. I'd be right at the brink of stock T56 Magnum limitations). I thiiiink TKOs are 650 fl. lbs.

Auto Gear and Equipment (out in Syracuse NY and 2.5 hours from me) build mean Muncie transmissions, including M23 and their M24. I spoke to a representative for about an hour and was told they're capable of building an M24 that can hold +700 ft. lbs. We spoke in very loose terms but it was an interesting conversation, worth re-visiting possibly. The thought of having a loud Muncie churning along is cool. Being different is cool. Lacking OD is not cool, and neither would be having to replace it after an expensive lesson in mechanical limitation.

Just curious if any of you have experience with them or a Muncie with such claims? Is it a pipe dream?

Link = http://www.autogear.net/
Attached Images
  

Last edited by 1_Car_Guy; 02-02-2023 at 03:51 PM.
Reply With Quote
The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to 1_Car_Guy For This Useful Post:
camcojb (02-02-2023), Goosesdad (02-02-2023), syborg tt (03-16-2023), WSSix (02-02-2023)
  #34  
Old 02-02-2023, 06:45 PM
camcojb's Avatar
camcojb camcojb is offline
Administrator
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Wilton, CA.
Posts: 12,579
Thanks: 4,181
Thanked 1,443 Times in 625 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1_Car_Guy View Post
I still don't know how to add an image correctly, where/how I can write, add an image and keep writing again. Whenever I add photos they simply appear at the bottom of the post by default. Also, how big should I have the photos? 600 x 600 seems about right...right?
If you want the pics to show up in the text they need to be hosted on the internet somewhere. Click for more info:

https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php?t=9127
__________________
Jody

PAST CAR PROJECTS

Like Lateral-G on Facebook!

Follow Lateral-G on Instagram!

SPECIAL THANKS TO:
Jacob Ehlers and Amsoil for the lubricants and degreasers for my 70 Chevelle project
Shannon at Modo Innovations for the cool billet DBW bracket
Roadster Shop for their Chevelle SPEC Chassis
Dakota Digital for their Chevelle HDX Gauge Package
Painless Performance for their wiring harness

Ron Davis Radiators for their radiator and fan assembly.
Baer Brakes for their front and rear brakes

Texas Speed and Performance for their 427 LS Stroker
American Powertrain for their ProFit Magnum T56 kit
Currie Enterprises for their 9" Third Member
Forgeline for their GF3 Wheels
McLeod Racing for their RXT street twin clutch
Ididit for their steering column
Holley for their EFI and engine parts
Lokar and Clayton Machine for their pedals and door and window handles
Morris Classic Concepts for their 3 point belts and side mirrors
Thermotec for their heat sleeve and sound deadening products
Restomod Air for their Tru Mod A/C kit
Mightymouse Solutions for their catch can
Magnaflow for their 3" exhaust system
Aeromotive for their dual Phantom fuel system
Vintage Air for their new Mid Mount LS front drive
Hydratech Braking for their hydroboost system
Borgeson for their stainless steering shaft and u joints
Eddie Motorsports for their hood and trunk hinges and misc parts
TMI Products for their seats, door panels, and dash pad
Rock Valley Antique Auto Parts for their stainless fuel tank
Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to camcojb For This Useful Post:
1_Car_Guy (02-03-2023)
  #35  
Old 03-08-2023, 01:23 PM
1_Car_Guy 1_Car_Guy is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2022
Posts: 30
Thanks: 6
Thanked 67 Times in 21 Posts
Default

Entry 17: 3/8/2023

Stopped in the shop last Friday; not a whole lot to update.

Car was moved from the very back of the shop to the front and now next in line to be the main priority.

Next up is straightening both rocker panels. The B-pillar to roof seam needs to be done before bodywork starts up.

For a while there I was contemplating getting it painted but decided to just get the body work all done, epoxy seal it, prime it and drag it home. I'll just block sand it down in a few years when it's time to paint.

Ordered up a new Flamingriver tilt steering column the other day, along with all new hardware and steering shaft.
Attached Images
    
Reply With Quote
The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to 1_Car_Guy For This Useful Post:
Goosesdad (03-09-2023), Roscoe03 (03-08-2023), syborg tt (03-16-2023)
  #36  
Old 03-09-2023, 10:21 AM
sublime1996525 sublime1996525 is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2022
Location: SL,UT
Posts: 6
Thanks: 1
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Default

Awesome build so far! I don't know why but I was thinking the $16k quote had to include paint from the shop. Makes me question the quote I got from my shop when they said it's $10k-$12k for bodywork and paint. What are they halfassing? lol
Reply With Quote
  #37  
Old 03-09-2023, 12:55 PM
1_Car_Guy 1_Car_Guy is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2022
Posts: 30
Thanks: 6
Thanked 67 Times in 21 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by sublime1996525 View Post
Awesome build so far! I don't know why but I was thinking the $16k quote had to include paint from the shop. Makes me question the quote I got from my shop when they said it's $10k-$12k for bodywork and paint. What are they halfassing? lol
Man, I'd be stoked if my quote came in at $12k. There are so many different things to consider when it comes to a price quote.

For my situation, there are really only 3 shops within a 40 mile radius that I'd trust. That lack of competition can't help me.

Also, I needed a new driver's side door, replaced the driver's side cowl section, got new inner fender wells and replaced driver's side quarter panel. That all upped the cost...things I really wasn't expecting.

The sheet metal was already off the car in an effort to make life easier for the shop but at the same time the factory shims and reference points were long gone...so reassembly was probably a royal pain.

Add in the cost of reassembling the car, stripping old paint off, some dent repair, body work, epoxy sealing and primer...$16,000 goes by fast.

If I wanted to keep costs down I could have opted to save the old quarter panel, could have chosen not to repair the driver's side cowl section and could have gone right to the actual paint job, but I'm too afraid of dropping a socket wrench on a fender or something between.

I asked around and for what I was asking to have done; $15-$25k sounded like the range I was going to be looking at.
Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to 1_Car_Guy For This Useful Post:
syborg tt (08-11-2023)
  #38  
Old 04-29-2023, 08:30 AM
1_Car_Guy 1_Car_Guy is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2022
Posts: 30
Thanks: 6
Thanked 67 Times in 21 Posts
Default

Entry 18: 4/29/2023

If you've been following along since the beginning, you'll remember that my original plan with this phase was to get the sheet metal back on the car and metal work wrapped up.

That soon became more involved and expensive than I anticipated. While the car was a 32,000 original mile car, 1 owner (my father), never saw snow...it had been in a collision.

Once all the paint was off, I was somewhat surprised when it became pretty obvious that replacing the previously 'saved' driver's side door and quarter was essential if
i wanted it done correctly. While a surprise I wasn't disappointed because this stuff happens when restoring a 48-year-old car. I also had the firewall smoothed and drivers side cowl panel replaced.

Through all of this I was hopeful that when it came time for bodywork to begin (filler, sanding, prepping for sealer, spraying in sealer), that I could afford to get it done all at the same point after metal work was done. This wasn't part of my original plan but getting the car back 'paint ready' was going to be comforting to know that that phase was done.
A big milestone for me. Would just need color down the road.

However, I stopped by the shop yesterday and was awestruck at the body work estimate. I don't see many people throw around exact numbers around here, but I will.

I was quoted 15,000 for body work. Mind you this would be on top of the 12,500 I've laid out for what I've had done so far. So in total...bill would be around 27,500 to receive a car back with all metal work and body work done...in sealer.

Like I said in the beginning, I've never restored a car before and have never messed with body work, but this is a bit out of my price range right now.

New plan is to get her back with all metal work done and the egregious body work areas completed (B-pillar to roof line for new quarter, and the hood).

I think I'm going to give the remaining body work a shot on my own. My uncle has a private shop a few towns away. I figure I can pick up block sanders, an air file, and supplies for under 1,000. If it's not good enough, I'll just sand it off and try again until it is or until I throw in the towel and decide I'm willing to pay approximately 15,000 for body work. Whatever comes first.

One other area that needed to be address is the package tray area along the bottom of the rear window. This was also a surprise. Car never saw snow and was only a daily driver for 1 year of its life which means this is all from hand washing and a compromised window seal.

Two other photos of the new quarter seams.
Attached Images
    

Last edited by 1_Car_Guy; 04-29-2023 at 08:40 AM.
Reply With Quote
The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to 1_Car_Guy For This Useful Post:
Goosesdad (08-04-2023), Roscoe03 (05-01-2023), syborg tt (08-11-2023)
  #39  
Old 08-03-2023, 11:30 PM
1_Car_Guy 1_Car_Guy is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2022
Posts: 30
Thanks: 6
Thanked 67 Times in 21 Posts
Default

Entry 19: 7/21/2023

Time flies. I got the car back on 7/21 and pretty happy with how the car came back. Metal work is what I asked for. Rocker panels left a little to be desired, and B-pillar/roof seams are ROUGH but what can I expect. It needs body work anyway down the road.

Since home I've been focused on gathering parts and tools for what I hope is a productive late summer and fall. Hoping to knock out the fuel system, and steering column re-build through December. Brakes will probably have to wait until winter.

I got to work on the Tanks Inc. EFI set-up last night and wrapped up the pump and sending unit. Instructions were vague in parts but it all worked out. Some photos of that.

Just ordered up a flaring kit since my last one was for 45 degree only! Man, prices are crazy these days.

Next up is picking up some braided tube, Nicopp hardline and laying out the system on the ol' whiteboard:
https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/p...cat/cat162.htm
Attached Images
      

Last edited by 1_Car_Guy; 08-03-2023 at 11:37 PM.
Reply With Quote
The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to 1_Car_Guy For This Useful Post:
camcojb (08-04-2023), Goosesdad (08-04-2023), Roscoe03 (08-04-2023), syborg tt (08-11-2023)
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:59 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright Lateral-g.net