...

Go Back   Lateral-g Forums > Technical Discussions > Chassis and Suspension
User Name
Password



Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 08-30-2006, 11:24 AM
nitrorocket's Avatar
nitrorocket nitrorocket is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Milwaukee Wisconsin
Posts: 488
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default Anybody slowing down from 150+ mph very quickly??

Curious of any brake issues anyone has hauling there heavy cars down from 100-150 mph time and time again on the road course. Any recomendations on rotors, pads, or calipers? What is the largest conventional rotor from?? I suppose the new ZO6?? What size are those?
__________________
Twin Turbo LS1 '71 Chevelle
1000 hp 93 octane street car
6 speed

Last edited by nitrorocket; 08-30-2006 at 11:29 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 08-30-2006, 11:40 AM
fatlife's Avatar
fatlife fatlife is offline
Banned
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 353
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

thats a loaded question, I think you should narrow down what you are wanting to know more specifically, and if you are going to be trying to slow down from 150mph over and over, you are going to want some really good race pads, not street stuff
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 08-30-2006, 12:24 PM
Damn True's Avatar
Damn True Damn True is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 787
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by fatlife
thats a loaded question, I think you should narrow down what you are wanting to know more specifically, and if you are going to be trying to slow down from 150mph over and over, you are going to want some really good race pads, not street stuff

.....and said pads won't be worth a damn under street driving conditions.

"Race" pads generally don't work well until they have built up a substantial amount of heat. More heat than you will generate on the street.

You'll want a set of pads for the track and a different set for street driving.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 08-30-2006, 12:24 PM
nitrorocket's Avatar
nitrorocket nitrorocket is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Milwaukee Wisconsin
Posts: 488
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

I have 4 wheel disc now. I run the 12" rear z28 brakes and factory front disc. I run Race pads at all 4 corners. The car stops great and will lock them up at will. Porblem I have is if I do a couple of real fast 100-150 mph stops, the brakes in the front start smoking and start to fade after more then a couple HARD stops from these speeds. I am going to upgrade the fronts and am real curious on if people have had issues with any particular setups with this kind of driving?
__________________
Twin Turbo LS1 '71 Chevelle
1000 hp 93 octane street car
6 speed
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 08-30-2006, 12:43 PM
HAULNSS's Avatar
HAULNSS HAULNSS is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 229
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Wink

Have you added an adjustable proportion valve? Sounds like the fronts may be doing a lot of the work.

A good 'race' pad is worthless on the street and vice versa. Like stated earlier, a race pad needs some heat to start really working.

Brakes basically transfer energy via heat. Get the best (and usually biggest)components you can afford or fit in your application.

Good 'real' race pads.
Good, large rotors.
Good brake bias.
Good, fresh high temp fluid.
Cooling ducts and wheels that allow air flow help, also.

Good luck.
Randy
__________________
1995 Impala SS
T56 Six Speed, Wilwoods, Tri-y's,...
1964 Riviera
31k miles
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 08-30-2006, 12:53 PM
fatlife's Avatar
fatlife fatlife is offline
Banned
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 353
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrorocket
Curious of any brake issues anyone has hauling there heavy cars down from 100-150 mph time and time again on the road course. A
What does this question have to do with street driving?
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 08-30-2006, 01:03 PM
fatlife's Avatar
fatlife fatlife is offline
Banned
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 353
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

What does your budget look like, the stock front discs aren't all that great, especially at 150mph, You could do C5 with some good pads and fluid and maybe be okay.

Another thing I notice that you keep mentioning is doing 150mph at a road course, I think you should go to one first, before you start telling yourself your going to be doing 150mph repeadetly, the only part you would do that is on the front straight, and I think you would be pooping your pants when you see that first turn comiing at 150mph. I was told the Mule with Mark Steilow behind the wheel did 135 down the front straight(t-hill) which is pretty fast. It would be hard to see that 4000ilb chevelle with nearly stock suspensison and a new driver doing 150. However your question is still just as legit.

I'm still confused with your question, you ask about the largest rotor. Are you talking about stock GM stuff or aftermarket. You really need to find out what will fit in your wheel. Probably 13" would be max if I had to guess looking at your wheels, not sure of the size etc. Do you want to spend $600 or $2000? Obviously the more you spend the better you get, but I think that if you really do some track time, your thought of what it is about and these speeds you dream about will change. Yes you will need good pads to stop after doing 100mph+ for the first turn, but that isn't the only place you are heating them up. And most of the other turns aren't 100mph turns. I would say a good inexpensive C5 setup would be fine for your first few times at the track. When you start learning whatever track it is your going to, and start getting your line down and remembering what turns come next, and start picking up speed and need better brakes then you might upgrade even more. The good thing about good brakes at the track, is that you can brake deeper into turns. The deeper you go into the turn the later you can turn in, which helps you pass people, go faster, and apex later which all helps your lap times. Potterfield makes good race pads and so does Hawk and carbotech

Last edited by fatlife; 08-30-2006 at 01:16 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 08-30-2006, 01:10 PM
nitrorocket's Avatar
nitrorocket nitrorocket is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Milwaukee Wisconsin
Posts: 488
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

I mentioned 150 mph, because it IS a realistic speed I will reach at the track, last thing I need is to have fade in the next turn. I won't start road racing untill next spring, but I am trying to get options and pro and cons from other that have been where I am going.

Last time to the track(quarter) with my old N/A small block, I made 5 passes in only 10 minutes and I thought my car was on fire! Then I noticed the front brakes smoking severely. The car kept getting faster, but the car was stopping slower, and that was only at 125 mph.

I have a adjustable proportioning valve, but the fronts are just to small. I also run synthetic fluid. The faster the car gets the smaller my front brakes are!

The new zo6 brakes look nice, but I wonder how much just a c5 upgrade would help? Maybe Wilwood or brembo? I have also thought about some used Nascar style calipers, are those any good? I don't know, I have never tried those brakes! I run 17x8's in the front. I would like to put it together in bits and pieces from scratch, I am wierd that way.
__________________
Twin Turbo LS1 '71 Chevelle
1000 hp 93 octane street car
6 speed

Last edited by nitrorocket; 08-30-2006 at 01:21 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 08-30-2006, 01:30 PM
fatlife's Avatar
fatlife fatlife is offline
Banned
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 353
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrorocket
I mentioned 150 mph, because it IS a realistic speed I will reach at the track



you'll learn eventually, thinking/talking about=lot differnet than doing/experiencing. Your only goal at your first trackday is to LEARN, not go fast, its not like drag racing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrorocket
I also run synthetic fluid.
WHat kind? if you are running Dot5 that could be a problem, if you are using Dot5.2 than its all good

Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrorocket
The new zo6 brakes look nice, but I wonder how much just a c5 upgrade would help? Maybe Wilwood or brembo? I have also thought about some used Nascar style calipers, are those any good? I don't know, I have never tried those brakes! I run 17x8's in the front. I would like to put it together in bits and pieces from scratch, I am wierd that way.
See the other post
https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=5750
I think a C5 setup would be perfect, just don't skimp on the pads.

Last edited by fatlife; 08-30-2006 at 01:36 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 08-30-2006, 02:27 PM
Blown353 Blown353 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Central Valley, CA
Posts: 864
Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Default

Good info here.

Some experience on my part... C4 PBR's all the way around with 13" rotors up front, 12" rear, on a 3250lb (no driver) '68 Mustang, ~625hp, on Hoosier slicks with brake ducts in front and running The Brake Man #4 pads works very, very well for 20 minute HARD track sessions with a very aggressive driver. One thing you need to remember is take a cool down lap so ambient heat doesn't bake the rubber dust seals on the calipers when you park it in the pits.

C4/C5 brakes for "casual" track days work very well when paired with good pads especially when cooling ducts and hi temp fluid is in place.

I think a C5 setup with good pads (maybe consider a set of track wheels-- certain race pads and their dust can be quite corrosive to wheels especially if the dust gets wet) and cooling ducts will do the job for you. Run good hi-temp fluid like Motul or Wilwood (fresh just before the track day.) If you mix and match pad brands (such as having a street pad you run and then some race pads) you may also want another set of rotors that stay bedded to those particular pads. However, I do know that Carbotech advises you are OK to switch pad compounds as long as you stick with their stuff without having to re-bed-- that's nice! Running race pads on the street has drawbacks too, not getting them hot enough can often lead to amazingly fast rotor wear.

Be warned of the other probable heat management issues I bet you will have... heatsoaking the radiator & engine, you'll probably need a big tranny cooler, and being turbo'd you're guaranteed to need a LARGE engine oil cooler as well. I would also be willing to bet that you'll end up melting some of the "soft bits" under the hood from heat exposure from radiant heat off all the turbo plumbing under sustained use/abuse on the track. Also, did you put inconel exhaust valves in? Under roadcourse use with turbos you might "tulip" a set of stainless valves, I see it on boosted boat applications.
__________________
1969 Chevelle
Old setup: Procharged/intercooled/EFI 353 SBC, TKO, ATS/SPC/Global West suspension, C6 brakes & hydroboost.
In progress: TT LS2, T56 Magnum, watts link, Wilwood Aero6/4 brakes, vaporworx, floater 9" rear, etc.

Last edited by Blown353; 08-30-2006 at 02:33 PM.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:15 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright Lateral-g.net