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  #131  
Old 04-22-2010, 10:35 PM
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TurboNova TurboNova is offline
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Originally Posted by GregWeld View Post
YOU'RE RIGHT! It's all based on a single hole!

I do LOVE the instantaneous throttle response they deliver!

You crack the throttle - you go zoom zoom... :>)

Talking to a tuner about IR's -- he says that to tune them correctly you have to add cells to the tables - especially down low (high vacuum) because you crack the throttle and there's lots of AIR but no fuel... so he redefines the tables to be able to have the cells (more and closer) to react to that inflow of air. Made sense to me.

I'm not using the correct descriptions for the tuning part - but you get what I mean.
Yes and No

It all depends on what Cam you are running and how much idle Vac it produces. I just got back from Eugene, OR.... tuning an XFI with a Hilborn EFI intake. Hilborn told them that they could just use one of the 350 ECU tunes in the Fast folder not even close. Anyway, you have to do several things correct to make it work. #1 is I always use sequential no matter what, you have seperate stacks for air and you also should for fuel. It just fixes alot of problems, that was the first thing I changed on this Vette. If it is a standard trans it is even more important. #2 is, at idle all of the butterflies should flow the same with one of those flow meters or you will chase your tail. #3 the scale (KPA) on the left of the ECU VE Table program (if it can) should be scaled correct for the cam you are using, sometimes it needs more at the bottom and sometimes more at the top. It really depends on the cam combo. But then this is nothing different that should not be done on every engine too.

The whole VE KPA thing is what has me worried about the EZ EFI, (since you can't change it) but it does work very well with the other combos. It is also only bank to bank. The intake is really cool though. I have been wanting to use one of those with an XFI on someting. It may eventually be my Nova Wagon.
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Last edited by TurboNova; 04-22-2010 at 10:41 PM.
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  #132  
Old 04-22-2010, 10:50 PM
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GregWeld GregWeld is offline
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Eugene is nice -- Lots and lots of college girls! LOL

Brian -- The number one reason I have left the entire Accel Gen 7 INSTALLED in the Nomad -- is because it ain't coming out of there until this EZ stuff proves itself on the engine dyno!

I do plan to do everything I can to make it work - ala buying the Inglese intake... The cam will have 113* LSA -- and 230/236 duration... so not too wild.

I agree with you on the one intake - one airway - one fuel way theory... and have so not come to terms with the "batch fire" system that the EZ uses - but (BIG BUTT) I ASSume that Inglese wouldn't offer this system with their IR intake if they hadn't made it work... Keeping my fingers crossed of course. Hope they didn't keep their fingers crossed behind their backs!
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  #133  
Old 04-22-2010, 11:01 PM
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Eugene is nice -- Lots and lots of college girls! LOL

Brian -- The number one reason I have left the entire Accel Gen 7 INSTALLED in the Nomad -- is because it ain't coming out of there until this EZ stuff proves itself on the engine dyno!

I do plan to do everything I can to make it work - ala buying the Inglese intake... The cam will have 113* LSA -- and 230/236 duration... so not too wild.

I agree with you on the one intake - one airway - one fuel way theory... and have so not come to terms with the "batch fire" system that the EZ uses - but (BIG BUTT) I ASSume that Inglese wouldn't offer this system with their IR intake if they hadn't made it work... Keeping my fingers crossed of course. Hope they didn't keep their fingers crossed behind their backs!
No, I agree that they have done some testing BUT I think that will also depend on how big of a cam someone uses and how much vac it makes. If it is something like yours, you stand a good chance getting it to work well.

Funny that you would say that just because someone sells it that it should work, how many car parts have you bought that didn't? I have a pile of them. About 1/2 of the EFI stuff out there is junk and really does not work very well.

I am not down on the EZ EFI at all, I really actually like it, just not so sure on this application.

The car I worked on the last few days had a XFI, which does a bunch more than the EZ, it didin't have the plenum in the bottom but was a 350 with a very small cam, also a 5 speed. It did not work with bank to bank mode, switched to a crank trigger and modified his MSD tach drive distributor and almost all of our idle problems just went away. I expect a very detailed report when you are done if I can't make it up there.

I talked to Divers today, they are on a mad dash to get the 39 Ford done, so I wll be up that way before too long. At least in the next couple of months anyway.
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  #134  
Old 04-22-2010, 11:16 PM
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I think I should have the motor on the dyno next week some time. I will video it -- and all the "process" as we go thru it.

I know what you're saying about "just because they sell it". I "hot rod" every part I get I think! LOL

I went with Smallish cam --- and smallish heads (Dart Pro 1 180cc) in order to keep vacuum signal strong and the idle good... it's a hot rod motor - in a heavy car - with 700r4 and 3:7O's - 2600 stall converter... I need it to be DRIVABLE on power tour without hassles... :>)

It shall be fun and a good learning curve!
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  #135  
Old 04-22-2010, 11:27 PM
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At least it is an auto with a mild engine, that should help a bunch. Don't expect it to run very well for 7 or 8 pulls, make sure the dyno guy runs the engine warmer that they usually do. It needs to be a min of 140 but I would keep the engine 180. The EZ EFI will not go into learn mode if it is too cold. It takes a little bit of running for it to learn and start adjusting to where it will run good.
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  #136  
Old 04-22-2010, 11:43 PM
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Good info Brian --- And yes -- I'd read that about the 140* for "learn mode".

My plan is to bring it up to temp -- then do some "steady state" at various rpms and loads... let the ECM learn... get everything nice and warm... then start at lower RPMS and just bring things up nice and slowly while loaded.

The dyno cell at Prestons has the A/F up on the wall (digital) as well as the monitor. I'm also going to run individual EGT's... because it's a new motor and I don't plan on hurting it right out of the box.

The dyno has a fuel/spark kill - with an instant shut down under load... so we can pull a blast - kill it - and read the plugs... I'm thinking that with small heads -- small cam - it should make some cylinder pressure - and timing might need to be a little less than the "normal" 36 or 38*...... What say you?
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  #137  
Old 04-24-2010, 02:13 PM
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I thought I would add some pics of how I modded my FAST dist to overcome the loose cap syndrome. I bought a Mini Mill and trying my hand at different projects. Having never been a machinist it is a fun learning curve. I'm just glad I have not had to pay for any of the aluminum that I've used up in the process.

These are my third attempt at the mounts, took me a couple of tries to figure out just how to use the rotary table for the proper radius cuts but now that I've got that figured out I am already planning on my next generation mounts. Hopefully a bit more aesthetically pleasing.



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  #138  
Old 04-24-2010, 03:53 PM
67ragtp 67ragtp is offline
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John- They look great! Im curious how deep were you able to drill into the housing were the button head screws are? I wasn't sure how much meat was behind there so I was reluctant to take your approach, but I like it much better. Are the button heads #10-24/32 or 1/4-20/28s? Nice job

Rich
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  #139  
Old 04-24-2010, 08:55 PM
John S John S is offline
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Rich,
The housing is about 1/8" thick in that area, not Ideal but I think it will hold up. That whole area of the distributor is open on the inside so drilling through and tapping was not an issue, I used loctite on the screws as well. One thing that you may not be able to tell from the pictures is that I milled a 1/2" diameter recess where the small detent for the clip used to be. I plan on making another set this time with the mounting stud as part of the mount instead of a separate spacer. If you are interested I could hook you up

Quote:
Originally Posted by 67ragtp View Post
John- They look great! Im curious how deep were you able to drill into the housing were the button head screws are? I wasn't sure how much meat was behind there so I was reluctant to take your approach, but I like it much better. Are the button heads #10-24/32 or 1/4-20/28s? Nice job

Rich

Last edited by John S; 04-25-2010 at 12:00 AM.
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  #140  
Old 04-25-2010, 09:19 AM
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Mounting stuff like that is what TIG welders are designed for....
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