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  #11  
Old 01-17-2006, 01:25 AM
4mm 4mm is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camcojb
If you do a search for Speedomotive on most all car sites you will find more horror stories than you can imagine. I'd say 10:1 bad to good. I have my own story about them but I don't feel like typing it out. I would avoid them like the plague.

Any company that sells you a 750 HP big block "dynoed" engine and will not guarantee it makes even within 50% of that (plus doesn't dyno them anyway other than on a computer program) does not get my vote. The amount of poor machine work, balance issues, oil useage, etc. will amaze you.

Jody
I agree with the above as well.

Frank
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  #12  
Old 01-17-2006, 04:46 AM
ProdigyCustoms ProdigyCustoms is offline
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Throw Wheeler in the same group as Speed O motive. Bought a 496 / 540HP motor, was supposed to watch the dyno run, got there and it was crated and ready with a sheet. Here ya go! I told the customer no, but he took it anyway, even though the exhast ports were never fired. Long story short, could mot break 300 on a chassis dyno, blow by like a you know what. Finally pulled it after they told him to shove it. Found 8 thou cylinder taper in it. Pistons were rocking over and dumping off the compression, scuffed to death, horrible piece of dung!
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  #13  
Old 01-17-2006, 09:20 AM
PTAddict PTAddict is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kilrcam
It's just like anything, there can be a lemon in everything. Like i said i know guys running them with no problems. When the 502 was the hot ticket a good friend of mine bought a ZZ502 and upon fireup and the first 5 min of run time it manage to throw a rod out the side of the block, never took it over 2000rpm. The only thing he put on was his carb he had bought. It happens.
Don't want to beat this dead horse too much further, but my motor was not a lemon, the builder was a lemon. There were more tolerances in the engine out of spec than in spec! The most basic rules of engine building, that you would follow yourself in your own garage, were not followed. As Camcojb said, avoid them.
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  #14  
Old 01-17-2006, 09:34 AM
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camcojb camcojb is online now
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There's a reason why a good engine builder like Wheel to Wheel and Nelson Racing are more money. Part of it is the quality of the parts used and the rest is the labor involved to check all the clearances and precise assembly.


I was told by a reliable source that the engine builder at SpeedoMotive had to assemble 2 engines a day to start to make any money. Now I have assembled several engines, and my average time is 35-40 hours to do a complete assembly if you check everything that should be checked, degree cam, verify valve train, pushrod length, valve to piston clearance, all clearances, etc. So either a place like that is giving you several days labor for free or they aren't checking and then just bolting them together assuming they're right.

Jody
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  #15  
Old 01-17-2006, 10:19 AM
markss28 markss28 is offline
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I at one time thought about buying a Speedomotive engine but seeing the 383 they built for project g28 in popular hotrodding was disapointing. It barely ran 13s and that was after some serious tuning done later by some one else. Any way I have gone 13.5s with a stock style small block comp street cam long tubes gears, performer intake and 600cfm carb. I figure I would just build my own engine and use quality parts and get more out of it for less money.
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  #16  
Old 01-17-2006, 12:23 PM
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Sorry to get off track, but I have not heard good or bad about American Speed.


Jody
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SPECIAL THANKS TO:
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Shannon at Modo Innovations for the cool billet DBW bracket
Roadster Shop for their Chevelle SPEC Chassis
Dakota Digital for their Chevelle HDX Gauge Package
Painless Performance for their wiring harness

Ron Davis Radiators for their radiator and fan assembly.
Baer Brakes for their front and rear brakes

Texas Speed and Performance for their 427 LS Stroker
American Powertrain for their ProFit Magnum T56 kit
Currie Enterprises for their 9" Third Member
Forgeline for their GF3 Wheels
McLeod Racing for their RXT street twin clutch
Ididit for their steering column
Holley for their EFI and engine parts
Lokar and Clayton Machine for their pedals and door and window handles
Morris Classic Concepts for their 3 point belts and side mirrors
Thermotec for their heat sleeve and sound deadening products
Restomod Air for their Tru Mod A/C kit
Mightymouse Solutions for their catch can
Magnaflow for their 3" exhaust system
Aeromotive for their dual Phantom fuel system
Vintage Air for their new Mid Mount LS front drive
Hydratech Braking for their hydroboost system
Borgeson for their stainless steering shaft and u joints
Eddie Motorsports for their hood and trunk hinges and misc parts
TMI Products for their seats, door panels, and dash pad
Rock Valley Antique Auto Parts for their stainless fuel tank
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  #17  
Old 01-17-2006, 01:19 PM
TOM NELSON TOM NELSON is offline
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Default 434 Crate Motor

Going aluminum will add 3600.00 to the cost and injected with sheetmetal manifold will add another 5400.00 .We just finished a all aluminum 434 injected small block 9.8 to 1 compression the motor made 635 hp at 6300 rpm and 590 ft lbs at 4900 rpm 500 lbs was in by 2900 rpm so basically 20 grand gets you an all aluminum injected 434 small block dynoed ready to go
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  #18  
Old 01-17-2006, 02:23 PM
buck171 buck171 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TOM NELSON
If Interested We Can Build You A Stout 434 Small Block Making 600 Hp For Around 11.000.00 And The Components Used Are Top Notch Dart Block Callies Crank Fully Cnc'ed 11x Brodixs Going 320+.i'd Be Glad To Build It 818-998-5593 Tom
Tom
I've noticed there's a range of cube sizes for the big inch small blocks, 421, 427, 434, 454, to name a few used by different builders. I've initially been looking for a 427 mainly because its a cubic inch chevy has used in the past. What are the advantages/disadvantages, besides more cubes more power, to the different cube sizes? Is it just builder preference? Would you build a 427 if that's what I decided to stick with? Thanks, Steve.
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  #19  
Old 01-17-2006, 05:23 PM
TOM NELSON TOM NELSON is offline
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Default 434 crate motor

421/427/434/454 allright a 421 is a 4.155 bore with a 3.875 this is usually done on a stock block .A 427 is a 4.125 bore with a 4.0 stroke a 434 is the same accept it has a .030 larger bore and a 454 is done a two ways a 4.250 bore with a 4 crank or a 4.185 bore with a 4.125 crank.This is my opinion on these combos.If your going to build a 427 or 434 you build it with a 9.325 deck height block which is +300 tall deck.Also going with this type of block you run a raised cam journal +.391 this in turn picks the cam up away from the connecting rods so there is no clearancing done to the rods also .Another trick I do is run a 55mm cam hole which in turn you can make a faster camshaft ramp because its larger and not affect the reliability of it.So 427 or 434 as far as I'm concerned its the same motor just make sure it has these features.the 9.325 deck allows you to use a 6.200 long rod which makes your rod ratio much nicer.The 454's i would steer clear of one has to much bore for the casting meaning the bore center of a smallblock chevy is always the same so the material between the cylinders is not enough on the 4.250 deal not to mention the gasket sealing surface especially with two exvalves right there.the 4.185/4.125 is a better way but thats alot of stroke which runs into cylinder wall wear.I think the 427/434 tall deck is the way to go.and i would be glad to build it either way.Thanks Tom
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  #20  
Old 01-17-2006, 10:16 PM
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NTSOS NTSOS is offline
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Tom,

What would be the pros and cons of using a Chevy 24502495 - Tall Deck Aluminum V8 Block for a 427 turbo motor as opposed to using some of the other aftermarket aluminum blocks......I like the little bow tie on it!

John
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