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  #31  
Old 12-05-2013, 02:28 PM
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Ron in SoCal Ron in SoCal is offline
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Originally Posted by OBeer-WAN-Kenobi View Post
I don't know Ron.... I'm afraid that if I start a build thread my car will take me years and years to complete.
And with sarcasm like that...you fit right in here
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  #32  
Old 12-05-2013, 02:56 PM
Pacific Fabrication Pacific Fabrication is offline
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Hey OBeer-WAN-Kenobi if you need any help with the swap let us know. We specialize in LS swaps.
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  #33  
Old 12-06-2013, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by OBeer-WAN-Kenobi View Post
Well, I pulled the trigger on it. I may have been reading something about swapping the transmission into a 2000 f body when they said the shifter was too far back which might not be a problem for my 1st Gen. Plus I just moved my drivers seat back 3 inches anyway. If the shifter is back a bit it will probably be comfortable.

Mine is rear steer so I maybe the alt won't be an issue? I did call Kwik Performance about accessories and options before I decided to go for it. He thought it would work fine except I'd need his AC bracket when I get that far.

Evidently the GTO transmission is preferred over the f body as it has the better synchros but I guess I'll find out.

Next is gas pedal, throttle cable, clutch pedal assembly, clutch master mounting and whatever the heck I'm going to get for engine mounts. Seems like everyone recommends different mounts. Maybe I should just Fab my own? Also seriously considering making my own transmission crossmember and mount. I'm thinking about doing the quicker ratio steering box while I'm in there as well.
I have the GTO T56 in my '67. It does have better synchros than the Fbody's. The gearing is a little different as well. GTO is 2.97,2.07,1.43,1.0,.84,.56. F-body is 2.66,1.78,1.30,1.0,.74,.50.

I bought an aftermarket shifter for the GTO T56 that relocates it to the F-body position. You will still need to enlarge the shifter hole 1-2" back from the stock position.

I think the alt location may interfere with your subframe. You may have to relocate it, or notch the frame.
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  #34  
Old 12-06-2013, 02:56 PM
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I can recommend a book to help

LS Swaps into first and Second Gens
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  #35  
Old 12-09-2013, 08:08 AM
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Thanks again guys for your help! I should be receiving the engine, transmission and associated wiring today.

My next dilemma is engine mount choice so I'll be perusing the forums today to try to decide which ones to get. ATM, I'm leaning towards the dingo adjustables as they would allow a greater degree of freedom I in case of headers or what have you.
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  #36  
Old 12-09-2013, 03:58 PM
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Stainless Works headers with the frame stands and transdapt plates I recommended in my other post fit perfectly
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  #37  
Old 12-09-2013, 06:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeremy30thz View Post
Stainless Works headers with the frame stands and transdapt plates I recommended in my other post fit perfectly
I'm looking for something a little less pricey. The Stainless Works headers look really nice but they aren't in the budget for now. I'd like to be under $600 for headers though that may be a pipe dream.


Something showed up today!


I guess I'll have to re size my pictures.....anyway, the motor and trans are here!
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  #38  
Old 12-09-2013, 08:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OBeer-WAN-Kenobi View Post
My next dilemma is engine mount choice so I'll be perusing the forums today to try to decide which ones to get. ATM, I'm leaning towards the dingo adjustables as they would allow a greater degree of freedom I in case of headers or what have you.
The Dingo adjustable mounts are nice, and they have a good range of adjustment. They came with the kit when I ordered my Kooks headers. However... I could not use the Dingo's because they interfered with my dry sump pump.

Hooker makes some nice engine mounts. They have different offsets, stock position, 1/2" forward, 1-1/4" forward, and 3" forward. I ended up using the Hooker 1/2" forward mounts and this put the engine very close to the firewall on the passenger side.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ho...4hkr/overview/

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69 Camaro-Nutter Racing Engines/427CI LS2 sleeved/LS7 CNC ported heads/Custom cam/T&D 1.8 rockers/Manley crank/Manley H-beam rods/Weisco pistons/NRC Pro Series dry sump/Kooks/NA,92 octane,11.5:1- 672HP @ 6,900RPM, 566TQ @ 5,500RPM
Build Thread- http://ls1tech.com/forums/generation...ine-build.html

Last edited by DaleTx; 12-10-2013 at 02:13 PM. Reason: added info
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  #39  
Old 12-29-2013, 08:31 AM
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I went with the transdapt stock position mounts but it looks like I should probably get some different frame stands. Mine are the 350/302 stands and they are too narrow to fit the rubber mount, without liberal use of washers as spacers anyway. Also, I know they are a bit lower than the 327 mounts. My stands are the ones recommended above but I'm worried about how much I will need to notch the frame for alt and A/C.

I have NOT test fit this yet, so maybe I should before getting too carried away but I'm just trying to think ahead.
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Last edited by OBeer-WAN-Kenobi; 12-29-2013 at 08:35 AM.
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