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  #351  
Old 06-03-2012, 10:37 PM
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Shaver-Wesmar

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  #352  
Old 06-03-2012, 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Track Junky View Post
I also read that SA makes PBM.

I'm swaying toward belt drive right now but i'll need to do more research. Accesability and adjustability make the belt drive desirable. If the belt drives can handle high cylinder pressures and 14:1 compression it may be the better choice.
The Summers Brothers option is pretty interestng also.
Cloyes & SA make the high end timing gears for many different timing sets that are sold by other Co's. ie Summit, Manley. Lunati, Crane, Comp & Jegs etc.. It comes down to what brand chain these other Co's decided to use with their sets



.A belt drive will be more precise with timing and take out end play in the cam and hermonics in the valve train. It is also nice to be able to change cam timing without pulling the timing cover.

I do agree with Vince..A good timing chain set will be more then enough for your application G


On a side note I read that the PBM alum block is made in New Zealand
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Last edited by intocarss; 06-03-2012 at 10:51 PM.
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  #353  
Old 06-03-2012, 10:57 PM
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I think the cam thrusting forward at higher rpms contributed to the chain failure. If checking the chain for wear is going on the maintenance list wouldn't it be smarter to go belt drive?
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  #354  
Old 06-03-2012, 10:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vince@MSperfab View Post
guys guys guys, chains are fine, the end of the world is not coming....well if it is i'll see you in hell. LOL
I was just thinking the same thing!


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Originally Posted by intocarss View Post
On a side note I read that the PBM alum block is made in New Zealand
And the PMB iron block is no longer made in Asia.
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  #355  
Old 06-03-2012, 11:01 PM
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I think the cam thrusting forward at higher rpms contributed to the chain failure. If checking the chain for wear is going on the maintenance list wouldn't it be smarter to go belt drive?
In addition cam end play will be easier to fine tune.
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  #356  
Old 06-03-2012, 11:05 PM
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I think the cam thrusting forward at higher rpms contributed to the chain failure. If checking the chain for wear is going on the maintenance list wouldn't it be smarter to go belt drive?
Yes it would be smarter. Most say a chain will stretch faster then a belt but a belt does have a shorter life span I changed my Jesel after 3 seasons and it was still tight But I don't take chances I was more worried with it being dried out

IMOHO I'd stay clear of a gear drive
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  #357  
Old 06-03-2012, 11:06 PM
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This with a Hex-adjust True Roller set up and you should be good.


Don't forget Jesel
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  #358  
Old 06-03-2012, 11:11 PM
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And the PMB iron block is no longer made in Asia.
Really? I didn't know that, where are they made now a days? Thanks.
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  #359  
Old 06-03-2012, 11:14 PM
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Danny Bee belt drives are pretty slick also. The ease of adjustability is pretty sweet. You can even have a slightly different timing spec for specific tracks if you want. I'm not sure on the SBC but on the FE Danny Bee set up the belt is in plain view and can be checked periodically. None of them are less than $1k so it is a big leap from a quality chain in price for sure.

I've looked into them just haven't justified the cost yet. Yet
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  #360  
Old 06-03-2012, 11:16 PM
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Yes it would be smarter. Most say a chain will stretch faster then a belt but a belt does have a shorter life span I changed my Jesel after 3 seasons and it was still tight But I don't take chances I was more worried with it being dried out

IMOHO I'd stay clear of a gear drive
Isn't smarter what we strive for every day?

I figured it was a no brainer.
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