I buy alot from these guys. Fast free shipping.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MILLER-DIVER...item5af96c5f28

I looked at the Syncrowave too, but the additional $700 and the size of the machine is too much of a downside for a machine that won't get used a ton...

If I had a bigger space I would get the bigger machine...

I do plan on some aluminum but mostly thin stuff... Brackets, tabs, pipe, nothing very thick or structural etc

I'm looking at stuff on cyberweld.com....

We are going to need updated progress pics we aren't taking no for an answer.

Ned --- Good for you buddy!



You'll be hooked on TIG just like Sieg! It takes a lot of effort to be any good but it's so much fun!



Make sure you know the specs of the machine you settle on... and mostly - as Vince pointed out -- it's the ALUMINUM that can eat amps.. So just be sure you're set on your gauges.


Now -- Start watching Welding Tips and Tricks dot com.... There's a million of them on YouTube - and he's very helpful and gets right to it. Some other sites spend way too much time just babbling.

Oh I've watched a ton of those videos.. I'm sure I'll watch more once I get a machine...

I will try and get around to posting pix... It's mostly boring stuff... Brake lines. Fuel lines.... Figuring out where I'm going to run my electrical...rear seatbelt harness........I'm trying to make every bracket, drill every hole, and do everything possible before paint... In theory, post paint assembly will go quick... In my dreams...

The car is back in black epoxy since all the big metal stuff was done

The specs on the 180 go to 3/16... The next Syncrowave go to 1/4.... Wow.... Lot more fine control settings... Machine is almost 2x the size and almost $800 more..... Cons outweigh the pro for me

Ned,

You might take a look at the HTP Invertig 221 specs. I debated the same issues as you and thought this was a good fit with some room to grow. Italian made machine and after-sale service and support had been above average IMO. The weak point is the manual which could have lost a little detail in the conversion from Italian to English but Miller's phone app makes up for that.

http://www.usaweld.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=597

I also have HTP's MIG 200 and Microcut 600 plasma cutter, no problems with any of them after 2+ years.

Would I rather have Miller's equipment that's just a step above the HTP in specs.......yes, especially if I had a shop, but not for the dollar difference and my newbie hobbyist usage venture.

You can't affect (change) the waveform with the Diversion TIG machines like I can with my Dynasty.... but it's also half the cost --- and you're not doing the kind of welding where this kind of control would be necessary...


Most hot rod welding just isn't all that complicated.

For you guys looking at the Diversion 180, today (Fat Tuesday) ZoroTools is offering 20% off and they carry that machine. Their normal price is a good bit higher but after the 20% you'll save some vs other online retailers.

Also, be sure and take advantage of the Miller Build with Blue rebate program. The way that works is you spend $150 on Miller accessories at the time you purchase the welder. So if you do the Zoro Tools deal you actually get 20% off of those as well so be sure and spend more than 150 so the after discount amount is > $150. Then submit the rebate. Miller will send you check for 10% of TOTAL purchase.

Zoro was running a similar 30% off deal around the holidays and the way it all worked out you could get the Div 180 and misc other accessories totaling over $200 out the door for about $1495 after you get the rebate from Miller. That was really good deal but this 20% active now isn't too shabby either.

BTW they appear to run these deals every few months so signing up for their email is worthwhile.

Checked the prices.... With the higher price, plus the tax I have to pay for that vendor, even with the 20% it's higher than the other websites

Ned the best prices on Miller are almost always from Indiana Oxygen Supply. I believe that they are Miller's single largest distributor.

They sell on Ebay here:

http://stores.ebay.com/Welding-Supplies-from-IOC

They will provide everything you need to submit your info to Miller for the Build With Blue Promotion. The promotion was also going on last year when I took advantage of it as well. Free shipping and no tax, etc.

Just received notification that Zoro is gonna do a 30% off deal tomorrow for very limited timeframe. You can't touch a Diversion 180 for what you can get one at through Zoro with this discount. They don't have a lot of equipment but fortunately they have the 180.

http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=239830

Jumping tracks for a second here...

I read a cheat in a metal shaping book last week for gas backing a TIG weld and wondered if anyone had tried this before.

Back the weld with fiberglass tape and then cover it with metal AC foil ducting tape. The fiberglass supposedly creates a pocket for the shielding gas to puddle behind the weld with the ducting tape holding it in the fiberglass.

Did you buy one? I highly doubt that Miller welders are going to be available at 30% off as part of that promotion...The margins on them are not high to begin with, 30% off would likely be below any distributor's cost.

Yes, I actually picked one up during a previous 30% off sale. So I've already received the Miller rebate, etc. If not I wouldn't have posted and risked hosing someone over.

Like you, I was really suspect with all the MAP policies and such on so many things these days. Worth noting that they aren't really 30% off relative to other retailers since Zoro prices are higher by a good bit to start with. I did some research on the company, etc and lots of good reviews so I decided to give it a shot. Worked out well. It really is a surprisingly good deal. Worth following the "hot deals" section over on GarageJournal for things like this. Every little savings is just more car parts money :-).

FWIW, another friend of mine ordered one yesterday during the sale and it is scheduled to be delivered today. Great shipping as well.

Sounds good, John. Zoro is "low risk" since it really is Grainger. They created zoro to focus on tools, since not a lot of people look to Grainger for tools. Which machine did you wind up with?

I went with the Diversion 180. The most affordable way to get into a tig machine of blue or red variety :-). Gotta get some quality time with it to develop more skill. So far it is great if for no other reason than it doesn't throw sparks everywhere.

TIG rules......try this with MIG LOL!

For scale, that's a 1" x 1.5" gusset.

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-F...FSjpfXg-XL.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-Z...ZPJKnZG-XL.jpg

Glad you picked up a machine, it's challenging but very rewarding once you get a feel for it. :thumbsup:

I like your tool toter. :thumbsup:

its all about time and practice. I still need to run a stack of scrap before I finish weld a production piece.

A truer (smarter) statement was never made! If you guys think you can run beads like the pros --- and not weld stuff for weeks --- then just pick up the torch and just start dabbin' dimes... WELL.... Good luck with that!

Even if you weld 3 or 4 times a week... you're not going to lay it out like someone that welds 8 hours a day, 50 weeks a year. That's MILES of welding compared to your inches. You WILL forget to turn on the gas... or you will not have the stick out correct... or you won't change your cup size to be able to reach the inside corner... and you WILL stick your tungsten in the puddle... or you won't be able to see because your hood is too dark.

Having said all of that... I personally find it very relaxing... and you can get good enough to stick some stuff together. It frees you up to THINK about how you want to do something - because once you can cut something up - now you have options... cause you can put it back together.


Here's SIEG'S next project --- a light over his table!! LOL


I have some headers that I'm thinking would be really cool - somehow connected and hanging so the flanges (and their 8 total pipe holes) would have lights shinning down or "something".



This "exhaust pipe" light (can't call it a chandelier without pissing off the little woman can we??) is in the Optima "Prime" rig.


Making things like this -- helps build your skills. And is fun.




http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/IMG_5216.jpg





http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/IMG_5215.jpg




http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/IMG_5214.jpg

This isn't TIG -- or actually -- isn't welding at all.... (well - okay - there's a little) but could be if a guy wants to use the "idea" and make it differently...

A few old parts - used instead of tossed or laying in a box. LOW VOLTAGE lighting is pretty handy - bright - and easy to wire....






http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...x/IMG_1560.jpg





http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...x/IMG_1561.jpg






http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...x/IMG_1567.jpg

Too cool! It looks like the business end of a Saturn V rocket!!!
This kind of stuff, as well as the car, are why I'm taking those classes!!!

You wouldn't be surprised if I told you I've collected misc. low-voltage lamps from discarded displays over the years for just that purpose..........and the big locomotive piston & rod, and, and, and........:D

Pulled the trigger and ordered a Miller Diverson 180 last night.... Plus some tungsten, gloves, rod etc


I also ordered one of their portable arc stations. I need a decent table and don't have the space to build a "real" welding table, so hopefully the fact that I can fold it down and store it will work out in my garage

Then I ordered up some aluminum sheet to build some stuff.... After I practice ALOT....

So the questions will start flowing soon...

Where did you order yours from? I've been thinking about getting a Tig welder.

I was going to ask who's garage but then I saw the sign. Nice shop Greg.:lmao:

Bought mine on cyberweld.com... Good reviews and price was good... About the same as some other big online vendors

Really wanted to buy at my local shop but the price difference was just too big, especially with taxes and the other stuff I ordered

Thanks. Same deal here. Local shop has the same price but I have to pay sales tax (and it's a big chunk of $$).

Dammit..got a call from the shipping company yesterday that my shipment from Miller was there...went up to the depot to get the shipment......all jazzed to play around this weekend....

And it was just the ARC station and the clamps!!! Welder wont be here until next week...

Scratch that..... The welder just showed up via Fedex!!!!! Score.....play time in the garage thus weekend :)

You gonna run out of scrap metal better stock up!! LOL

Oh and remember to ground...TIG will give you a nasty shock if not.

The ARC station I bought from Miller is supposed to include a bolt that you screw into the table top and run to ground...instructions state "independent of the welding leads"..... table legs have small plastic end caps...

So do I need to ground the table with some cable AND the TIG to the table? Kind of a PITA with a portable/foldable table.... most guys tables I see are up on rubber wheels etc, so I don't see the need to run a separate cable from the table to ground....

No Ned -- Just use the the ground clamp from the TIG --- the TIG is grounded to your house electrical panel via it's plug.


If I'm welding metal parts on a metal table - I ground the table -- the parts will ground via the contact to the table "most" of the time. I also have a heavy copper strap -- 12"+ long - 2" wide - 5/16" or so thick - and use this sometimes to hold the piece by laying it on the table and onto the work.

I was a little confused with the instructions that came with the table.... they give you a metal "L" bracket to bolt to the table top underside...they call it a "work lead tab", which I was taking to mean the ground lead from the TIG....but then they want you to put a bolt into the table top to "connect the welding table to a good electrical ground (independent of the welding leads"....

So its like they want me to attach the ground lead from the TIG to the table and the table to another ground...

I usually do what you mentioned Greg.... I just put the metal piece on the metal table and connect the ground to the table....

I have never been a fan of trying to ground the table. Ground clamp on the workpiece. It is a rare occurrence where getting the ground clamp onto the workpiece is actually a problem.

Funny Rob -- I'm the exact opposite - I never ground the piece... But like most things everyone has their own style.

Indeed GW. I think I got away from even trying it, when doing Al. It almost never works well when doing Al. Now I just always attach to the work no matter what I'm doing.

Much depends on scope and scale. A lot of the work I do is too small to comfortably attach the lead to.........

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-m...-mkPqcqL-L.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-Z...-ZfzdLKW-L.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-L...-LwS3bWq-L.jpg

.........so 95% of my projects are grounded to the table.

Very seldom do I have issues, but if there's weld splatter of other debris on the table it can create a arcing hot spot.

I clamp to the part, except for when teaching the basics at the community workshop. On my stuff though, I try to always clamp to the part. When the part is too small, or oddly configured, I use C-shaped vice grips on the part, and clamp the ground to the vice grips.

Even when we clamp to the table for welding instruction sessions, I usually tell them that I clamp to the part, and tell/show them the vise grip tip, then try to show them why I do it. If you get a part that doesn't make good/full contact with the table, it will spot-weld to the table where the ground arcs. I show them the size of that spot and explain that all the current is flowing back to the source through that tiny spot, or the next best thing it finds... :weld:

I've felt the "TIG tingle" before...

Is anyone using this CK Rotary Amperage Control?

http://www.ckworldwide.com/images/rac.jpg

http://www.ckworldwide.com/amperage_controls.htm