One of my fabricators had that on his machine. I liked it. Its great cause im ambidextrous and the smaller wheel style is tough to reach in certain positions. I have an idea that i'd like to make happen.

Haaa that's my saying " I'm a better grinder than a weldor so all is good"



LOL

Been playing with the new TIG a lot... Started to build a cart for the welder and my plasma so I can move stuff around easier...plus it's a big practice piece to get some seat time under my belt

My best analogy for how it's going so far.... It's just like playing golf.... One second I lay a nice/decent bead.... Get alittle confidence... And then the next one looks like a pile of bird crap and I want to check the torch into the lake :) some of the welds on the cart look pretty damn good for a beginner... And others look like hell..,

Feeling decent on the butt weld..., still struggling with fillet welds.. Keep blowing through the upper section or getting a decent puddle flowing..,

Sometimes I feel like I'm getting more time grinding tungsten vs actually welding..

If it was easy --- your buddy RobW could do it.....


Hang in there -- watch some videos -- this is a skill set that needs to be learned and it doesn't come easy or cheap. Once you get the hang of it - you can sell the MIG because it'll just sit in the corner.

Is anybody using a Dynasty 350.And how does it work on .375 alum.

You must think we're all rich or something! To have tools like that!! OMG!!


LOL

I guess I will be the only lateral-g-er w/a dynasty 350.Greg, call and ask me how I like it.:thumbsup:

Oh trust me...... I've looked at 'em..... but then I wake up from my dream and realize that 1/4" material is as large as I ever need to go.

Before I bought my DX200 - I went over to a neighbors shop to have a fitting TIG'd up... and he had the 700... and I remember thinking to myself OMG it's like THE TOWER of welding! From that moment on I wanted one. I have no use for it but so what! LOL

I have some .375 alum. and Miller 200DX just won't getter done.

I have it and use it often. It's great when you are not bench welding.

Get some helium and it will ;)

200 DX is only capable of .250 aluminum on Argon. And you're right - with Helium you could probably get it done. I got a tank once - talked like Donald Duck for a week.... didn't get much welding done. LOL

careful greg, too much of that will stunt your growth and make you walk funny.

Hah, we do lots of very thick aluminum welding at my work. And we actually use DCEN with straight helium gas... The gas is expensive, but it is an option if you want to weld thicker aluminum on a small machine..

TOO LATE!!!!

Hey GW, not sure what you meant by that, but, I found a shirt for you!

http://hoodratswelding.com/products/...iant=932985299

Maybe change the "and" to "I'm"...... :)

I only held a TIG torch 3 days a week for about 9 mo. way back in 1990 so I know less than everybody here. That said ,and I'm sure I'm late to this , the problem with the puddle at 50amps was you where not welding .050" tubing together you are welding TWO EDGES of 1" .050 wall sqaure tubing. The 2 edges butted together are closer to .100 thick each and then have nice heat sinks running away from the weld (2 on each side of the weld) did you try to weld the tubes together end to end?

It's the same as doing a T weld in the middle of a plate, the "leg" acts thinner because the base has more area cooling the bead area.

Just a thought from out on the edge.

Sorry I started reading this thread then realized it was 3 years old .

Cyclone ---


I've read your post about 5 times and have yet to comprehend what you're saying. My initial thought was that you're telling someone they should add up the thickness (gauge/dimension) of both pieces you're trying to well and then set your machine accordingly. I.E., a butt weld joint - of two .125" square tubes - should be welded at 250 amps.

Dude! Couldn't be further from correct.... So I don't know what your post is trying to say because I must have missed something there.

I usually crank the amps up to max for the tungsten then modulate with my foot. Too many numbers in my head as it is. Only time I really pay mind to the amps is when I know im going to be welding for more than an hour at a time then i'll set it so I can full floor the pedal and concentrate on the puddle.

Also I use a fixed #12 lens when I tig. No flash and blind. My eyes are much happier now.

Number 12 lens! :confused59:

Do you paint your TIG rod white with a red tip? :sieg:

Just now seen this thread, and read the entire thing. Tons of great info, and links. Lots of very nice welding also.

I believe what he means; is that when you place two square tubes side by side, the corners are thicker than the flats. Where as, if you but the tubes together end to end, then the thickness would be as listed.

Could not agree more! I have a Miller Syncrowave 250, a Millermatic 200, and a 110v Lincoln mig (don't remember model, it's at my brother's house). 9 times out of 10 I will TIG before I MIG. I know both of my Millers are older, but I bought the TIG over 12 yrs ago, and got a steal on the Millermatic. I will post some pics of some of my welds tomorrow (not on computer now.

I've had to buy helmets that go down to 8 so I can see.... LOL

^^ This! ^^

Has anyone been having issues with China sourced tungstens for their TIG? I bought some stuff off Amazon supposed to be 2% Lanthenated but it's fracturing and splitting on AC......my Thoriated stuff (DC) is old Linde stock works like a champ! I'm using a dedicated diamond wheel to sharpen the stuff. Gas system is fine, water cooler is fine. Please tell me brands your using with good quality.

I have found that when you are taking time to create and prep a work piece that trying to save a buck on un known quality consumables cost you alot more money in the long run.

My local place carries CK products and have been very happy with them.

Since im here I want to share an experience I had today while doing some aluminum work. I was welding along, and about 3 mins or so into the bead the filler would start collecting onto the tungsten. Getting sucked up is all I can describe it. Its also strange that this did not happen when I was doing my practice runs. About 30 mins on scrap. Note that this has never happened to me without accidentaly getting the tung in the puddle.

Turned down the gas, adjusting it for more cleaning helped but as soon as things heated up i would start up.

Check out the picture, you can see the blow back spots.

So im going back and forth and I noticed that if I wiped my rod down with
acetone it would stop doing it for a longer period.

While texting I inedvertenly swapped my welding gloves and the problem never came back. Turn out when I was fitting the weld bung for the filler cap lubricant from the o-ring saturated the index finger on my glove. As the rod got hot and my finger got closer to the puddle it would release more contaminants. Bam blow back.

Moral of the story keep your gloves, equip and rod clean when going ball deep. :smiley_smack:

That is a great reminder Vince. Everything has to be clean with tig

Made some welds on my frame last night. First time welding in about 6 months. Used 1/16 ceriated with 1/16 er70s6, 140 amps max. First to were ok, last two look good to me. Let me hear your thoughts.http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...315_215607.jpg
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...315_215629.jpg
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...315_222813.jpg
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...315_222823.jpg

Here is what I am welding in (the short brace in front of the xmember).
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...315_222846.jpg
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...601_134414.jpg

Last two look very good - keep going!


When I haven't welded for a while - I don't go straight to work on the parts I'm making -- I sit down with some scraps and get the beads going for a few minutes... then when it feels right I go to work.

Personally I think your choice of 1/16th tungsten is too small for the job you're working on - I'd be using 3/32nd... with the same size filler material. Your HAZ (heat affected zone) is pretty wide - and that's due to slow travel speeds (typical of "newbs"). That's not a disrespectful name btw.

I figured this one out the hard way a couple years back when I was self-teaching. I now keep a set of gloves that I only use for TIG welding.

Tank looks good though!!

I thought the same thing, but decided to give it a try. That was going off the Miller welding app suggested sizes and settings. I do think I will switch back to 3/32 electrode on the remaining sides. Still gotta figure out how to get into the tight angle to weld it. Any suggestions?

I have been tig welding off and on for about 12 yrs now, but only do it at home on my own stuff and some side odd and ends.

Welding 1045 threaded adapters to 1020 DOM
 

I'm getting ready to weld some 1045 threaded adapters to 1.25od x .120wall 1020 DOM and have seen many say that you should use a lower tensile strength filler material like ER70-S2. In light of the application, I would think that ER70-S6 would be a better choice. I have both in MIG and TIG. These are for some suspension links. Any suggestions from some of you more learned welders out there?

I sure a welding wizard will cut me off at the pass but I have used ER70-s2 in situations like this with no issue. I think it has more to do with prep and proper welding technique.

OKAY, Okay, okay.., please pardon my rant..,

1. The only difference between ER70S2 and ER70S6 is alloy. ER70S6 has a bit more Manganese and Silicon, plus a few tramp allows.
2. Regarding these two filler materials, they have almost identical tensile strengths, hence the "70" in the number, which stands for guaranteed "ultimate tensile strength", not "yield strength". What's my point? It's personal preference.., I prefer ER70S2 simply because it provides a better silicon "puddle bounce" when I weld.
3. Use pure argon when TIG welding, 15scfm +15/-0, (depending on application like back purging).
4. Please use ONLY American made tungsten and when TIG welding steel.., please use 2% thoriated tungsten which is marked by a red marking on the end.
Grind your point to a sharp tip and do so axially with your grinder, not radially, so as to avoid "break" points if you stick your tungsten.
5. Prep is EVERYTHING. Period.
6. Prep is best by sanding or scotchbrite. If you sandblast first, you must either then sand, scotchbrite, or fail.
7. Practice first on scrap. When you think you are ready, practice one more time..,
8. Control your current. Most people worry about "heat affected zone" which is the blued discoloration around the weld on the parent material. What I have learned the hard way is use plenty of current.., burn it in deep.., that is if you want strength!
9. I repeat myself..,
PREP is everything.., Keep it CLEAN.
10. Please reply.., I want to help..,

OOPS..,
Please use 3/32" tungsten 2% thoriated.

I only have 2% lanthenated right now, but I work next door to a welding supply shop and get a discount through work. Furick gas lense and clear cup works fantastic.
Space cadet on the tensile strength vs alloy numbers. I do have some lower strength I've used on body work as it's easier to hammerweld or grind. Perhaps the lower alloy creates a better bridge between the other steels.

I decided I needed to come back and read this, and watch some videos.

Will be practicing on 18-20 gauge sheet metal scraps. I want to work on my Torino cowl after I learn from my mistakes, it won't be seen but I want to do a good job. I've already repaired some of it with MIG.

I was just at the local welding supply to get argon (92CF). He reccomended, and I bought.

*70S-6 filler 1/16X36 here pounds.
* 2% cerriated tungsten in 1/16 and 3/32, I bought one of each.

My family gave me the HTP-221 for Christmas, and it has an assortment of gas lenses, none of which are clear. It has a 17 torch and the standard lenses, etc.

The question is did I buy the correct supplies to get started burning coupons?

Thanks!