I'm going to stage a victory. I know a guy that can really TIG and he's my size, I'll give him my jacket gloves and helmet and photograph him at my bench with the GoPro and submit the evidence for the victory! :trophy-1302:

I may spend $300 on argon and rod to obtain that bottle - it's simply a matter of principle - even if it was Gallo jug wine. :rules:

On a side note I just burnt the crap out of the ring finger tip pad .5" x .75". I was sanding a piece of stainless on the 8" disk sander, took my gloves off to quick reply to a text and forgot to put them back on :confused59: ..........already blistered.........ouchie. :sieg:

My bet is -- we could start a thread all about how many times, and how many weird places, Lat G members have burned themselves doing this thing we call a hobby. It would be 200 pages in no time! :lol:


Probably be another 200 page thread on "how I ripped open my (fill in the blank)" with a jagged piece of metal. We could separate with a sub threads with RUSTED vs DIRTY GREASY vs CLEAN AND SHARP AS A RAZOR BLADE.


Personally - I've learned not to weld ANYTHING with tennis shoes on... seems something red hot always finds it's way between my toes.

Can anyone beat this tungsten trick?

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-P...-P3T5mM7-M.jpg

:sieg:

A hot-rod friend saw this book and had to buy it for me.

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-P...-PTDRrB4-L.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-C...-CN3FGr3-L.jpg

It's the second version of the 1942 original published in 1947 and in immaculate condition. Has all the basic weld techniques, certification and testing requirements. Great resource!

Nice book!


When I was in high school I worked in at body shop (Gateway Body and Fender - which is still in business to this day!) -- and we used to Braze fenders etc on - and I learned to weld with Oxy/Ace torch. Those skills were easily transferred when I started to TIG - because it's a similar hand action. The major difference is with the gas torch - you made a circular motion. But moving the puddle - torch angles - fill feed - those are directly similar.

Back then (45 years ago!) we Stick welded... and that's very similar to MIG welding - you could push or drag the stick.. You learned to bury it in the puddle if you needed the penetration - and how to pick up both sides of an inside corner - or the weave needed for a vertical joint etc. I like not having to chip the slag... :lol:

The oldest trick in the book dude! :disgusted:

Backside contamination on 1/2" od 1/16 wall sq tubing. I was just tigging along and POP!......crater in one of the better beads I've put down. Happened three more times and I said "F it" enough of this cutesey crap this bracket needs to be done and fired up the MIG. :unibrow:

If your weld is popping ---- it's DIRTY!

Or you're welding on junk tube. Tough to TIG Galvanized water pipe... Which I doubt you're doing. In fact -- don't TIG galvanized anything.

Tubes tend to build up heat inside and draw oily smoke into the weld...


And - if you're trying to close up the tube ... and it's a short piece... I punch a 1/8" hole at the end for a heat escape - otherwise the pressure build up of the expanding heated air inside can blow thru right where you're welding as you're trying to close it up.

Didn't consider the pressure build up, it was fully closed but the small volume probably added to POP. Contamination most likely the culprit, new stock tubing properly prepped externally but I didn't take a bore cleaning brush and solvent to the inside. It was a fast and dirty project............and another learn by experience event. Regrinding tungsten is similar punishment to writing something a 100 times on a chalkboard.

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-N...-NWGZX93-M.jpg

It's a steep learning curve.... but check another "don't" or "do" off the list.


Yes --- you had HEAT and Fumes (think machine oil from the tube process) blowing out molten metal.

Do you ever wonder - how I can figure these things out BEFORE you post pics of what you were working on?? :lol:

I buy NON Chlorinated brake clean by the CASE ($1.99 a can if you catch it on sale) to shoot down inside stuff like this BEFORE welding. And either you can drill a small escape hole -- or leave the last tiny bit open - let it all cool down and go back and touch it up.


:thumbsup: :popcorn2:

You read a lot? :sieg: