Josh,

I'd say that is a custom piece. With your skills, you can make them easy. Start with run of the mill arms, steel or alum. that are already splined. Then change them how you see fit. It is probably cheaper to buy mass produced arms and cut them up than to have custom splines cut. You can do it!

Later,

Good point on the mass produced arms. I like saving money even though i am not good at it:lol: . Have you thought about how thick and size of bar you are going to run for your truck? Speaking of truck have you got any more done on it? Talk to you soon.

Since we used the Morrison IFS and Triangulated 4 Link, we are going to use the bars they provide. I don't know the sizes off the top of my head. They are closer to factory style mounts which I am not fond of, but they seem to work well. We will see, they definately are not as trick as the splined stuff. We are actually geting closed making some sparks again. We just dropped some square tubing off at a neighbor for him to make our cab mounts. He has a bigger band saw and mill so it will be easier for him. When we get them back, we are going to set the cab on the chassis and get moving again.

Later,

Are you going to use a rear sway bar? Since i went with a trianglated 4 link my roll center is on the higher side so a rear sway bar isn't as important as the front but was just curious if others are using them. I am hoping by next week i can finally show some pics of what i have been working on. For some reason i have been waiting to show pics until i get the frame off the frame jig and next week is the big week:woot: . The frame won't be 100% but at least it will be a roller.

I am using a rear bar. It is small however. I want to be able to run fairly soft springs for handling and comfort, but I also want to limit roll. Right now we are using the bar and springs Morrison supplied. I won't know if it is right until we start driving. I can't wait to see your new chassis. How bout some insider info?:unibrow: You can e-mail some preview pictures to [email protected].

Later,

Chad,
Sent you an email but just a heads up that my garage is a mess and the pics aren't the best.

Josh

Jeff , see it all here :


http://www.jefflilly.com/Fabrication...scar-sway-bar/


Jeff Lilly restorations :bow:

Thanks for that link! Very nice step by step how you did your or someones elses sway bar! Just to double check again when seting up the sway bar the lower control arm and the sway bar arm should be at the same degree right? How important is it if they are slightly different? Is there a rule on how many degrees you can be off and it still work fine? Thanks

Josh,

The angles matching is not all that important. The length of the arm and the links being vertical are more important. The length of the arm determines the rate at the arm and the links being vertical help to keep the system from binding. The arms sand links should be made to provide bind free movement over your complete range of motion. Hopefully that isn't confusing.

Later,

Hey Chad! I am aware that the longer the arms are the less amount of force they provide. I believe my arms are going to be in the neighborhood of 11-14". Not to long and not to short. Okay, maybe a little on the shorter side. When you say links you are referring to the heims that attach the arms to the LCA, right? You are saying that the links need to be vertical at ride height and that he sway bar arms don't need to be at any specific angle. As long as they clear the tie rods through the suspension travel. Does all that sound right?