Good trick, Jody!

So reading about the regulator I have it comes from the factory set at 43psi so I'm ruling out checking on that.

I'm going to doublecheck the fuel filter flow and its rate but I'm guessing thats okay.

The fuel cooler I know was backwards and that was fixed.

I guess the gauge could be bad so Ill swap that out with a spare.

There could be air in the lines, would that effect it?

Im also going to start from scratch and make sure there is enough gas in the tank. I put 4 gallons in so it should be fine.

Gotta go do some errands, and help the wife get the christmas stuff out. So later today Ill get in the garage.

Not sure what else could be killing the fuel pressure but if anyone has any ideas let me know. 17 when it should be 43 is a problem

if it's dead-headed there will be some air to bleed out but it should still show the proper pressure and it should still start. It may die a couple times briefly, but that's about it. You can also crack the line/fittings at the far end of the fuel rail and bleed the air out that way with the pump running; I've always just fired it up, let it die maybe once or twice briefly and then it's done.

Never trust the factory adjustments, the first thing to check is that adjustment. Loosen the locknut and screw the allen stud clockwise into the regulator which should raise the fuel pressure. Hopefully all that's wrong is that it is set too far out from the factory.

If adjusting it down doesn't raise the fuel pressure then you'll have to look elsewhere. After re-reading your description it's also possible that the pressure gauge is defective and your dieing is just the bleeding of the air out of the system, or you need to do some tuning to get it to idle (proper fuel map numbers, minimum throttle blade opening is too low, etc).

Jody

Jody was right. Dont trust the factory
Problem #1 fixed. Regulator adjusted and fuel pressure is now at 40 psi.

Still wont start so there is still another issue. No errors on the ECM so thats good. The tune that Accel gave me should be good for startup so gotta start checking everything out.

I bought my intake and throttle body used so I'm wondering if any of the TB sensors are bad. I never replaced them but now I'm wishing I did.

The other thing could be the forced timing could be off. I hope I dont have to go thru pulling the dist and going back thru the whole TDC thing again.

cool, progress. :thumbsup: As far as the sensors, you do have tuning software I hope?? TPS should show as a %. With the key on and not touching the throttle it should show as a low %, and should evenly increase as you push the throttle pedal. The map should show around 100 kpa or so without running and key on, depending on your altitude. Go through your config settings again and make sure you've entered the correct map, tps % for idle, injector size, ignition type, etc.

Does your voltage drop much when cranking? Ideally it will stay near 12 volts, if it's below 11 or so it can throw a lot of stuff off making it hard to fire.

Jody

Jody, thanks for all the help.

I have the Gen7 software and am online with the ECM while I crank it.

Yes it drops down to 7.97 when cranking.

Running back out with the wife so will be back on later today.

I'm downloading the Gen VII software now, so hopefully I can take a look at your tune and see if I see anything out of the ordinary. I may even have an old tune from a Procharged 406 in my old laptop, I'll take a look.

yeah, that won't work. You do have all the main power wires for the computer hooked directly to battery, right?

Yes ecm is wired back to the trunk battery. Power and ground was extended to the trunk. And wired direct to battery. When I get home I can email u my tune. When I get home.
.I'm gonna put the battery on the charger and give it a full charge too.

cool, I have the software up and running. Also include injector size.