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  #1  
Old 11-26-2008, 04:55 PM
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Default Reading the Harmonic Balancer

Need help understanding where TDC is on the balancer.

Don't know why I'm confused but I am. The white line at 0 to me is TDC.

What is that second white line for?

Cranked the motor over so I know its on the compression stroke but need to turn the crank to true TDC
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  #2  
Old 11-26-2008, 05:13 PM
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90 degrees....The compression stroke is right after the intake valve opens. After the intake valve opens and closes when you get to zero that is when you stab the distributor.
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Old 11-26-2008, 05:18 PM
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Thanks man so what your saying is bring the pointer to the "lonely" white line and then I'm ready for the distributor.

I'm trying to avoid taking the valve cover off. I gotta remove the procharger and the wiper motor first which isn't the end of the world but Id rather not have to unless its the last resort.
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Old 11-26-2008, 05:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedugan View Post
Thanks man so what your saying is bring the pointer to the "lonely" white line and then I'm ready for the distributor.

I'm trying to avoid taking the valve cover off. I gotta remove the procharger and the wiper motor first which isn't the end of the world but Id rather not have to unless its the last resort.
the "lonely" white line is not TDC and not where you want to be to drop in the distributor. The white line at the mark "0" is TDC, but not necessarily ready for the distributor to drop in either.

Pull the #1 plug, plug the spark plug hole with your finger and slowly turn the engine over by hand until you feel/hear compression push past your finger. You should be approaching the tdc line with the "0". I like to stop at say 16 degrees before tdc (or whatever idle timing you want to run). Drop in the dist with the rotor pointing towards the #1 plug terminal. Turn the key to "on" (don't crank) and attach the #1 plug wire to the spark plug, and ground the plug terminal onto something metal. With the key on slowly turn the distributor until the plug fires, and lock the distributor down at that position. Re-install the #1 plug and wire and the engine should be ready to fire.

Jody
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Old 11-26-2008, 06:22 PM
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Thanks Jody.

I'm running the Accel Dual Sync so wish me luck.

Phasing the rotor now
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Old 11-27-2008, 08:24 PM
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When I read thru the Accel Dual-sync instructions it wants you to bring it to TDC then phase the distributor for the cam and crank LED's. Then lock it

Then turn the motor to 23-30 BTDC and then phase the rotor. If I follow these instructions then how the heck do you turn the motor backwards? I turn the motor on the balancer bolt so if I turn it backwards the bolt would back out? Like before I'm missing something here? confused. Help.
Jegs and summit sell the Proform tool that would work but there must be simpler way. I cannot get to the flywheel to turn it, the scattershield is in the way.
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  #7  
Old 11-27-2008, 09:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedugan View Post
When I read thru the Accel Dual-sync instructions it wants you to bring it to TDC then phase the distributor for the cam and crank LED's. Then lock it

Then turn the motor to 23-30 BTDC and then phase the rotor. If I follow these instructions then how the heck do you turn the motor backwards? I turn the motor on the balancer bolt so if I turn it backwards the bolt would back out? Like before I'm missing something here? confused. Help.
Jegs and summit sell the Proform tool that would work but there must be simpler way. I cannot get to the flywheel to turn it, the scattershield is in the way.
my instructions were for general distributor installs. To turn the engine backwards remove the plugs. If the harmonic balancer bolt is properly torqued it should not loosen without plugs.

Jody
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Painless Performance for their wiring harness

Ron Davis Radiators for their radiator and fan assembly.
Baer Brakes for their front and rear brakes

Texas Speed and Performance for their 427 LS Stroker
American Powertrain for their ProFit Magnum T56 kit
Currie Enterprises for their 9" Third Member
Forgeline for their GF3 Wheels
McLeod Racing for their RXT street twin clutch
Ididit for their steering column
Holley for their EFI and engine parts
Lokar and Clayton Machine for their pedals and door and window handles
Morris Classic Concepts for their 3 point belts and side mirrors
Thermotec for their heat sleeve and sound deadening products
Restomod Air for their Tru Mod A/C kit
Mightymouse Solutions for their catch can
Magnaflow for their 3" exhaust system
Aeromotive for their dual Phantom fuel system
Vintage Air for their new Mid Mount LS front drive
Hydratech Braking for their hydroboost system
Borgeson for their stainless steering shaft and u joints
Eddie Motorsports for their hood and trunk hinges and misc parts
TMI Products for their seats, door panels, and dash pad
Rock Valley Antique Auto Parts for their stainless fuel tank
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  #8  
Old 11-28-2008, 02:27 PM
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Thanks Jody that took care of that.

Car does not want to start so gotta start troubleshooting the issue.

Have 17 pounds of pressure at the fuel rail gauge. Why so low

Car does start and then dies when I spray some starter fluid in the throttle body. Car then dies in seconds.

Gotta go feed the kiddies and then get them ready for bed so guess I gotta wait till Saturday to get back on it. Ill figure it out this weekend. so close.
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  #9  
Old 11-28-2008, 03:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedugan View Post
Thanks Jody that took care of that.

Car does not want to start so gotta start troubleshooting the issue.

Have 17 pounds of pressure at the fuel rail gauge. Why so low

Car does start and then dies when I spray some starter fluid in the throttle body. Car then dies in seconds.

Gotta go feed the kiddies and then get them ready for bed so guess I gotta wait till Saturday to get back on it. Ill figure it out this weekend. so close.
it won't run with that low of pressure, so that's the first thing to figure out.

Jody
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SPECIAL THANKS TO:
Jacob Ehlers and Amsoil for the lubricants and degreasers for my 70 Chevelle project
Shannon at Modo Innovations for the cool billet DBW bracket
Roadster Shop for their Chevelle SPEC Chassis
Dakota Digital for their Chevelle HDX Gauge Package
Painless Performance for their wiring harness

Ron Davis Radiators for their radiator and fan assembly.
Baer Brakes for their front and rear brakes

Texas Speed and Performance for their 427 LS Stroker
American Powertrain for their ProFit Magnum T56 kit
Currie Enterprises for their 9" Third Member
Forgeline for their GF3 Wheels
McLeod Racing for their RXT street twin clutch
Ididit for their steering column
Holley for their EFI and engine parts
Lokar and Clayton Machine for their pedals and door and window handles
Morris Classic Concepts for their 3 point belts and side mirrors
Thermotec for their heat sleeve and sound deadening products
Restomod Air for their Tru Mod A/C kit
Mightymouse Solutions for their catch can
Magnaflow for their 3" exhaust system
Aeromotive for their dual Phantom fuel system
Vintage Air for their new Mid Mount LS front drive
Hydratech Braking for their hydroboost system
Borgeson for their stainless steering shaft and u joints
Eddie Motorsports for their hood and trunk hinges and misc parts
TMI Products for their seats, door panels, and dash pad
Rock Valley Antique Auto Parts for their stainless fuel tank
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  #10  
Old 11-28-2008, 03:42 PM
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Jody I'm running the aeromotive bypass regulator near the tank. PN 13101.
Return from the bypass back to the tank.
Im going to put a gauge on it to see what kind of pressure I get back there.

On the front of the motor I have the fuel lines coming in to the back of the motor and the front of the rails is capped.

So a returnless system

Ill get out there in the AM and start checking it out
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