need me to get you a deal on a 3.5" aluminum one?

Sucks that broke like that.. glad you weren't in motion, could have gone badly..

The maximum Hp ever created by Chevy was 425hp. I doubt you have that drive shaft. Even if you did, it's seen better days. I'm also running a 3.5 inch aluminum shaft like Rupp.

What about steel or carbon fiber driveshafts? Can they handle high HP/torque?

Yep...talk to me. I put an email into PSTD out of Florida for some shaft suggestions. I have my wife's car on the lift right now with no wheels or brakes under it. Those show up this week, then it comes off and I'm hoping by next weekend I can have the Camaro up in the air to start the repairs.

I'll need to take a measurement for the new shaft - have to jack it up and get that today.

Time is going to be tight


Funny thing is...even at 425 hp or so...I never imagined the shaft being a weak link. Going over that...yes. We just wrapped up a 900 hp turbo trans am and got it out of the shop a couple of weeks ago. That one had a custom shaft from PSTD and it was also set up for living a 1/4 mile at a time. I just never imagined mine doing this.

Years ago I had a Jeep CJ7 with oversized tires and a 4.2 six. I snatched a gear hard going into second - chirped the tires and threw that shaft out on the road. Being 4x4, I locked the front hub in and limped it home.

You might want to add driveshaft loop. Dont know if it would have saved you from some of the carnage.

email me and I will check a "good guy" price over at IEDL.. Of couse I would need EXACT dimensions and what U-joints you are running.

[email protected]

Spun mine in the '69 to the 6800 chip on the dyno several times and made 431rwhp with a stock GM driveshaft,never worried about it before,maybe I should?:_paranoid

John - Like I've said many times about myself --- Better lucky than smart!:rofl:

The critical speed of a shaft is really important - and I don't think I ever encountered such things "back in the day" -- but now we're spinning motors to higher revs and with big gears (thanks to overdrive) and maybe we'll see more failures like this.

Luckily I think most of the folks on here that have done big engine swaps - are familiar with this issue - and most likely have already upgraded their driveline - if for no other reason than because they had to make a new one for the new rear and trans... (maybe Lucky AND smart!).

I was thinking back to my drag race days - and can't ever remember a discussion about this - but I was young - and maybe it was already taken care of (Obviously) by the constructors. Back then - all I can ever remember worrying about was the U joints... but they never broke either! LOL

Email sent....

FYI though....


The measurement form the metal lip of the rear seal on the trans to the face of the U bolt mount on the diff is 53 7/8” with the suspension loaded under vehicle weight at rest.

I used a conversion U-joint on this which allowed the use of the stock 69 shaft with the BRP mounts. The new shaft can have standard Ford joint which I think will be better as well. The diff yoke is 1 1/8” diameter and 3 5/8” from cap to cap (on the diff side). I think that is a 1350...but I can't remember for sure.

The 1350 U joint diameter is 1 3/16

My guess is your U joint is the slightly smaller 1330 - based on your 1 1/8 diameter.

Both the 1330 and the 1350 would measure 3 5/8 but the 1350 uses the larger bearing diameter.