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Awesome write up Greg and Big Thanks since this post will hopefully help alot of people out!!!!! Brandon
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Disclaimer: This post was written by a real customer. No one was paid, and no actors were used in the making of this post:unibrow: |
The Koul Tool is really only for people that don't have a nice way to cut this crappy hose (I personally am so 'over it' - this look is what I mean).... and you're right - it (Koul tool) does make it far easier if you can't get a nice cut on the end of your braided stuff. But the key is really just to have the vice jaws to hold the fitting --- and a nice clean cut... then you can save the cost of the extra "not really required" tool. I use the vice jaws for lots of other stuff... and the cutters etc can be used on other things as well... the Koul Tool is a one trick pony.
A BIG PS to the original poster.... IF you're using braided rubber hose for FUEL LINE ---- DON'T. If you have to go flexible -- use the teflon lined (ptfe) braided hose and then you'll only need one extra tool... the hand tool that installs the ferrel and spreads the braid out AFTER you install the sleeve. The PTFE hose will stand up to todays fuels and is also great for high pressure stuff like P/S etc. If you use rubber hose -- you're garage will forever stink like gasoline. Then you're wife gets pissy about your "stinky hot rod" -- and then she goes out and shops all day - thus reducing your tool account! Don't let this happen to you! PPSS: The PTFE stuff is an extra little nasty hose to install a fitting on! If you cut this crappola with a cutoff tool -- it melts the PTFE -- then you can't get the fitting to go down into the liner... it's super snug fit! Any 'defects' or cuts in the end of the PTFE and you're "hosed" (pun intended). This is where that handy dandy XRP saw blade comes into play - cause it's super sharp and doesn't get hot and melt the liner.... JUST FYI is all. |
For me the Koul tools really helped with the -4 and -6 hose ends. -8 and -10 I didn't really need them. For me it was worth the price of less swearing and saving my thumbs from being punctured more :lol:
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Ed --- My skin is why I hate this stuff! LOL
It's (the braid) like 80 grit sandpaper if you accidentally touch ANYTHING that has a finish on it with the stuff! And those occasional barbs are just THE nastiest stuff ever! |
Greg
Great write up! You just need to add one step: I pressure test all my lines before installing them. I cap both ends with one end having a schrader valve. I pressure test the hose to 125 psi with shop air and dump it into my shop sink under water. If no bubbles it's good. :thumbsup: This has saved me a huge amount of time. I also pressure test all my tanks with less pressure before installing them. It is much easier to fix the hoses and tanks before you fill them with oil or coolant. Stielow |
Thanks Mark!
I really was chuckling to myself while writing this - - thinking about the first time I made this stuff up.... and how my fingers hurt -- and the stripped fittings and the leaks and the.... Well you know.... this stuff is a total PITA if you're not "educated" about it! I like your pressure testing.... but I just go one better.... I just don't build hoses and tanks that leak! Hey -- thinking of that -- I have a really really nice bridge in Manhattan I'm not using... CHEAP! Interested? :lateral: :cheers: :woot: |
That's why I use the nylon hose. Easy to cut and lighter. :unibrow: Power steering hoses are my only braided.
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Williams Oil Filter Service in Tacoma has every fitting like that you'll ever need.... and the hose too. Or if I'm not down cruising Tacoma I stop at American Hose and Fitting in Kent. If you know what you want - they'll also make them up for you. I prefer to make my own. |
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