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My car sits just like that maybe a tad lower in the front and my rear I adjusted up..I dont like the look of it being lower in the back.
Your not going to be able to go any lower then that unless you ditch the fender liners and run steering stops on your control arms. I cut mine in the center to clear my tires at full bump. |
I agree with Strlegal, you need the Speedtech spindles in order to get the front low enough on these cars while retaining good geometry. When they are lowered too much using just springs the lower ball joint pivot gets higher than the lower control arm inner pivot point. This is bad. The almost 1" drop the Speedtech spindle offers is perfect.
If I was to redo mine, I would add these. Im using SC&C's stage 2 plus. I works really well and I am very pleased with the auto x results. Im using a 17x8 with 5" BS. Using a 7" wide wheel you will have some extra room to avoid rubbing. Whatever you do, use a system that improves over the stock geometry such as Speedtech, Sc&C. Slapping on some dropped spindles and arms from XX company does not always offer much for improvement besides looks and wow factor. |
The SC&C stage 2 kit looks very interesting. A few questions. I don't see an X-Body kit.. did you use the Camaro '67 - '69 kit? Would that work for a '71 Nova? if you retain the stock lower control arms, is the tall lower balljoint a press-in or a bolt-in thing? Is that $816 price for both sides? It seems like this would get me much better camber adjustment and geometry, even if I use a stock height spindle. If I do that, what is the best way to lower the car 2" - 3"... springs only? Do the balljoints affect ride height? Would cut stock springs be better or lowered springs like a Hotchkis 2" lowering spring?
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Yes before I met Blake I used to deal with Marcus @ ScandC alot...That guy has probably forgotten more about suspension then any of us would ever know...
Yes you can use your stock spindles with a tall ball joint and I think you will need to do a Gulstrand mod as well.. You can also buy his lower arms that move the spring down further in the bucket allowing a sort of drop. Because you still want to get it lower...You could buy DSE springs and use the rest of his stuff.. It is a great option |
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The SC&C street comp 2 package is a great improvement over stock and Marc does offer them as an option with our Pro Billet Z/28 style geometry corrected steering arms instead of the tall outer tie rod. You get reduced bumpsteer as well as a quicker steering ratio and better wheel clearance. |
Wow! :hail: All excellent advice and you've all given me much to think about. I just need to decide now how hard I intend to drive it and how much the budget will allow. I've heard guys say over and over that a DSE subframe (or another AM subframe) is the way to go from day one as you'll just end up there eventually and spend 2x the money in the meantime getting there. I can see the logic but I simply can't justify $8 - $10K in front end/brakes/subframe right now, especially in this economy. I'll have to mull it over and go from there but I apppreciate all of the excellent advice. Obvously lots and lots of great, experienced folks here! :thumbsup:
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I was saying using a taller upper ball joint with an SPC arm will be a nice improvement..This is why I also mentioned you needing the Guldstrand mod. The stock spindles are your limiting factor however this package is a nice upgrade. But if you can save some money to it right the first time..
A front clip is not necessary but it does haves it's finer quality's.. |
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