Ron, thanks for posting this link. Most kits for GM vehicles require the user to change axles also, which can get expensive. I haven't seen these kits before. Very affordable.

No worries. Best wishes.

Good info Ron. :thumbsup:

I installed Moser axles and the c-clip eliminator kit a long time ago. As I see it the downside (handicap) is the limited options for rear disc brakes.

Budget wise I'll probably end up installing big Ford flanges on my 12 bolt for braking performance more than increased strength.

Unless I can find a real good deal on a 9" as the lower pinion placement would also improve my drivetrain angles.

If your going to run the c-clip eliminators on the street, you may want to check this out

Strange part # A1033

http://www.competitionplus.com/drag-...t-application-

To rebuild a 10 bolt or not
 

I would rebuild yours .The reason why GM quit building the 12 bolt is because it is just as strong. My car is a 1979 Z-28 RS Camaro. It has a supercharged small block Chevy with a Super T-10 4 speed. The speedometer has turned over 6 times before I rebuilt the 10 bolt.I upgraded to the Moroso "Brute Strength" carrier for a 10 bolt. It has heavier springs and clutches than stock. Stock GM 3:42 ring and pinion.And Mosier 31 Spline axels. But I tend to over build stuff when upgrade the car .Because of the amount of power the engine is capable of making . So if the is going to be fairly stock. I would rebuild it stock but add a positraction carrier to it. And if want to have a lot healthier engine down the road. I do the upgrades like I did. I like to do things only once. Especially big ticket items like differentials. I all depends on you and your pocket book. Good Luck to you.

Thanks for all the replies guys. I'll know soon enough if the rear end is making noise and what it is. I'm close to getting it on the road legally.

One thing I have noticed is the rear is weeping gear oil from where the tubes and new axle tube ends where welded on. I had this done by a chassis shop that builds 10.5 Outlaw cars. Is this normal or did they not do the best welding job? Can it be rewelded or do I just need to start over with a different housing?

As for the C-clip eliminators, Marty mentioned something in his build thread about being told the kits aren't for a car that corners. Anyone have any insight into that claim?

I think I'm good for brakes in the rear. I've got C5 rears now and I'd go with a Kore3 kit if the need arises. Marty already figured out how to make that work with the C-clip eliminator kit.

After checking this link out, I'm wondering if that's what Marty was being told about in his thread? I wonder if he has tapered bearings. Hmm, I'll PM him.

Thanks for posting this.

The same part # is on page 16 of the Strange catalog I linked to, but that page shows ALL of the kits. This is THE correct kit for the application we're discussing. $180

This is the version for street, cornering, auto-x, etc. It uses a tapered roller bearing, which is stronger in every direction, compared to the stock gm axle bearing.

When people have said the c-clip eliminator kits are not for street or cornering, they are, of course, referring to the drag race versions that use roller ball bearings. Or they don't know there are versions available with tapered roller Timken style bearings ... which again ... are WAY better for side loads from cornering than the stock GM axle bearing.

Hope this help clarifies things. :confused59:

It does. Thanks Ron. The only thing I need to figure out if if my Moser axles will work with the Strange kit since the Strange kit says it works with specific Strange axles. Moser doesn't say if their C-clip kit is drag only or not. I may need to contact them to find out what type bearings it has.

A drag race magazine did an article, I think the title was "Ten Second Ten Bolt" and the subject of the article was that a 10 bolt with c-clip eliminators, forged axles, HD Diff cover, quality gears and a good posi-traction / limited slip / spool unit would take care of most cars, even cars that car were going to race exclusively.

After figuring out all the cost elements to upgrade my 10 bolt versus a 12 bolt or 9-inch, I searched for a 12 bolt or 9 inch or dana 60 that I didn't need to do much swapping of parts. I found and used 9-inch because I had the time to be discriminating, and the rear end had most of what I wanted already installed and in good shape (gears, locker and the right width for the car without having to pay a machine shop a bundle to get what I needed). I probably would have kept my 10 bolt, except I was looking at purchase of a new set of gears for the desired ratio, C-clip eliminators, forged axles and rebuilding the Eaton unit, and then I would need to cut off the leaf spring perches, and weld on the 4-link brackets too.

In the end I spent less on the used 9-inch than I would have spent modifying / upgrading my existing 10 bolt. Not a whole lot, but a few hundred bucks. The discriminating factor was the cost of a new set of gears and the labor for the installation of the c-clip eliminators, and matching forged axles. Again, I had time to look for what I wanted in a used unit, and I had the used 3rd member checked out so that I didn't need to buy a whole bunch of new parts and then pay the labor to install them. I was lucky, time was on my side, and I was able to get what I needed and save a few bucks.

If you are lucky your existing 3rd member has most of what you need already installed. If not, look in the used market and maybe you can find a 9-inch, 12 bolt or dana 60 with everything you need and you only need to tear it down have it checked out and a few things repalced and you are good to go with a swap that will accommodate any changes to you engine package in the future.