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-   -   Help help, installed kill switch (https://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php?t=42684)

ErikLS2 08-17-2013 11:58 PM

I'm late to the party as usual here but it doesn't remove the "load" from the switch to have it on the ground side, it just removes the voltage from it as the "load" in the circuit (bulb, starter, computer, etc.) uses up the voltage before it gets there. Amperage though is the same throughout the circuit, power or ground side. Most vehicle manufacturers place switches on the ground side as the lower voltage reduces the very minor arcing across the contact points (where there isn't a transistor these days) caused by the additional voltage going through it and in theory making the switch last longer.

If removing the kill switch didn't solve the problem check for voltage loss across all the wires in the circuit. This is important, do it with the circuit operating. Set your meter to volts and connect it to each end of any wire you want to check. In your case each end of each black and red wire as well as across the kill switch contacts and alternator wire. On the large gauge wires going to the starter you'll have to disable the ignition system and measure it while cranking. I would pay special attention to the wire from the alternator (it might be too small for that span) and on this one the engine will have to be running, if it will run, if not while cranking will have to do. You should read very little voltage in any of these test, not more than 0.1-0.2 volts is ideal, if more than say a volt there's way too much resistance in the circuit or the wire is too small in diameter.

DRJDVM's '69 08-18-2013 09:25 AM

KISS...keep it simple stupid..:)

So then the debate comes back to, which side to run the switch.... my understanding is that it really depends on what your goal is.

If the goal is to cut all power in the event of a crash etc, so none of the electrical systems have juice flowing through them, then it should be close to the BAT and on the positive side. If you crash and things are all mangled, you may have created new ground points all over the place with shorted wires...and you don't want a bunch of hot circuits anymore

If the goal is more to be able to just essentially disconnect your BAT when the car is sitting, so the BAT does constantly get drained, then just put it on the NEG side

waynieZ 08-18-2013 11:26 AM

As for the negative being switched, couldn't the starter get a dead short and cause a fire if it the positive was hot ??

Lenie 08-18-2013 08:32 PM

Disconnected from kill switch straight to battery, nothing. Decided to rewire back to original set up straight from 1 wire alternator to starter, still nothing. I believe I've done something to fry my msd 6al 6420 ignition box (must of spiked it)...no fuse..really...crap. Guess I'll buy another....hmmm cars

waynieZ 08-18-2013 11:21 PM

What would Greg Weld say That's hot rodding! Still hurts though doesn't it.
I hope you get it figured out.

Lenie 08-19-2013 12:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by waynieZ (Post 499964)
What would Greg Weld say That's hot rodding! Still hurts though doesn't it.
I hope you get it figured out.

Ya just like Greg, trying to make this hobby fun!:lol:

Lenie 08-30-2013 10:59 PM

Took the long road there but got er' fixed!:whistling:

GregWeld 08-31-2013 06:26 AM

Spill your guts matey!


Did ya LEARN something along the way -- because that's the best part of screwing something up is if you "get it" when you're done?


XOXO
Greg

Lenie 08-31-2013 09:58 AM

Ya Greg, everything I do on this car I learn something new and lovin' it. A little embarrassing, probably should have been the first place to look but it was my last, you know spark, air and gas. I was changing to a bigger alternator wire to a kill switch so after I was done and it didn't start, I thought it was electrical, something I screwed up and got it stuck in my head that was the problem. I started by buying a new battery, then put everything back the way it was, didn't work, moved the ground to the kill switch instead of positive, didn't work, installed a new coil, didn't work, installed a new msd 6al box didn't work, redid all my grounds, didn't work, keep in mind I've only driven this thing about 5 miles, put a volt meter to the distributor and it checked out fine, checked everything for spark and all was good, pretty puzzled at this time and reading everything on google there was about msd issues. Got to talking to one of our mechanics at work and he says Lenie, I know you haven't driven the car much but it comes down to spark, air and gas....put a new cap and rotor on and change out the spark plugs while your at it and see what happens.....so I changed them out and bingo, starts up the first time she turns over. Funny how the mind works when you get stuck on something and don't look at the big picture... live and learn. Car goes to the upholstery shop first week of October, said they'd have it about 10 days and be done. I missed the summer but finally the car will be pretty much finished:happy23:

waynieZ 08-31-2013 06:29 PM

Lenie Don't feel bad I usually take the round about way to get things figured out too. Glad you fixed it and its going to the interior shop.
It won't be long now !


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