I 100% agree. I was just saying that he might have the correct frame stands and his headers still might not fit. Of course, if he has the wrong frame stands for a 69 Camaro BBC, then it can't be the manufacturer's fault.

We're on the same page. :thumbsup:

Some pics.

Is that a GM subframe or Alston ?

NO Bomb here if you follow my INSTRUCTION's.

Understood Scotty, just attempting to reinforce your instructions. :thumbsup:

What cylinder heads do you have? And by big block mounts, you have Chassisworks frame pads and they measured the same as GM big block frame pads? I'm speaking of the frame pads themselves, not the motor mounts.

I believe I see at least part of the problem in the photos(besides the fact that it's not a stock subframe which adds a big variable). That's not a stock power steering box, and it's the same model I just switched to from a larger/heavier model/series(my previous one was from AGR). The one he has I believe is the '600 series' model that's smaller and lighter than other quick-ratio PS steering boxes, but also unfortunately makes that common fitment issue against the #5 tube even worse. Like I mentioned earlier, it's specific to headers designed like his(and mine) where all tubes just go immediately downward instead of the #5 tube looping over the #7 tube. That particular series of power steering box just sticks out like that in that exact area against the #5 tube even worse than other quick-ratio boxes. The other quick-ratio boxes can also have a clearance problem right there, but the 600 series is even a little worse. It's a situation that's not fair to header manufacturers and sucks for both parties really. Now, the passenger side header hitting on the idler arm is another issue in itself that I won't comment on, and if other tubes on the drivers side are hitting, there's not much you can do for clearancing that doesn't involve modification to the header.

For that #5 tube issue, if you change that particular bolt on the steering box that is hitting the header to a button head bolt, and you do a little light grinding(flap disk) in that area of the steering box cover to add some additional clearance, you should be okay. You could wrap a little titanium header/heat wrap around that area of that tube if you're worried about heat transfer(I did just to be safe). The engine will rotate upwards in that area when you hit the gas, so clearance will be okay at WOT. I have the exact same situation with my headers, but mine's even worse than his. I had to do some "clearancing" and also had to dimple my #5 tube slightly. My #7 tube was really bad and I had to cut a section of it out completely and add a curve to it. All because of the "smaller"(in all the wrong places) steering box. His #7 tube looks like a much better design than mine.

I thought it was a stock subframe with a DSE Speed 3 kit, hard to tell. The steering box being changed is an issue as you said as it has less clearance in that tube area than the stock one. If he has aftermarket heads (or some GM Performance heads), many of those have raised exhaust ports, another potential issue, especially with the steering box, maybe the idler arm depending on how the tubes are run.

Yes, you could be right about the frame. I can't tell either. I assumed Chris Alston subframe when he mention the mounts and I saw the pic.

Thanks for all the replies its good to hear from people with similar issues.
Its a stock subframe with a DSE front suspension kit and steering box.
The heads are Dart which run a 300th raised port
All this information was told when ordering the headers. The number1 tube hits hard against the box from the top all the way down the body and also hits the top control arm bolt.
I did change the steering box top bolts to mushroom head but made little difference.Not sure weather you can see in the pic but the header isnt even flush on the head yet it stiil needs to be rotated up which i cant do as its against the box and no gasket on yet either.On the other side number 1 tube is hard against idler arm rubber seal.