Warning do not buy Stainless Works big block headers

[8hg383]

Been a member of this site for while now but have just been happy looking at the great cars and ideas people have.
Unfortunitly my first post is to let people no of the poor product and customer service i have received from Paul at Stainless Works.
I am building a 1969 Camaro here in Australia and ordered a set of big block headers to suit my car.
They will not fit as they are hard against the steering box and idler arm.
Paul has said send them back but i will have to pay for shipping $400.
Unfortuitly i dented a couple of pipes to try and get them to fit as i didnt want the hassle in sending them back but its to the point now that they will not fit no matter how much i dent them so now Paul want take them back.
I now have to get them cut up and pipes moved the LH header has to be made again which here in Australia is going to cost at least $1000. I have asked Paul if we can come to some sort of compromise but he is not interested saying that they should fit they dont not even close to fitting.
So to cut a long story short think again before buying SW headers i am sure there is better headers out there and diffintley better service the headers will now i owe me at least $3000 thanks Stainless Works.

[camcojb]

Originally Posted by 8hg383

Been a member of this site for while now but have just been happy looking at the great cars and ideas people have.
Unfortunitly my first post is to let people no of the poor product and customer service i have received from Paul at Stainless Works.
I am building a 1969 Camaro here in Australia and ordered a set of big block headers to suit my car.
They will not fit as they are hard against the steering box and idler arm.
Paul has said send them back but i will have to pay for shipping $400.
Unfortuitly i dented a couple of pipes to try and get them to fit as i didnt want the hassle in sending them back but its to the point now that they will not fit no matter how much i dent them so now Paul want take them back.
I now have to get them cut up and pipes moved the LH header has to be made again which here in Australia is going to cost at least $1000. I have asked Paul if we can come to some sort of compromise but he is not interested saying that they should fit they dont not even close to fitting.
So to cut a long story short think again before buying SW headers i am sure there is better headers out there and diffintley better service the headers will now i owe me at least $3000 thanks Stainless Works.

Sounds like you have the wrong frame mounts. Pretty common issue. The correct big block frame pads move the engine over 1/2"+ to the passenger side, and the frame pad is taller on the drivers side; this gains the clearance needed to clear the steering box with the wider big block. Many people do not have the correct frame pads and since most headers were made off a real big block car with the correct big block frame mounts they don't fit with the engine centered in the chassis like a small block.

This happens with most headers, other than the few like Lemons who actually make headers specifically for a big block in the small block location. Here's a pic and some more info:

http://www.camaros.org/engine.shtml#EngineMounting

[clill]

I'm with Jody on this. It sounds like you have smallblock frame mounts. That is where forums like these come in very handy. If you had asked here we probably could have helped you before the headers got messed up. I have had no problems with their headers. Can you post pics ? Even the trans crossmember is different on a big block car.

[coolwelder62]

If you find out that you have the wrong frame stand's,the ding's can be fixed.Build some flange & collector block off plate's,then put a valve stem in the collector.Heat the dinged area to a light dall red,then fill the capped header tube with no more than about 60PSI of air pressure at first.The dent should slowly push it's way out.After it's cooled start using scotch brite to work out the discrolored area.I've fixed many car and motorcycle header's this way.Just take your time and work slowly.

[Ron in SoCal]

I have a couple of brand new BB frame stands you can have if you determine you have the wrong ones.

You pay shipping, haha...

[Sieg]

Originally Posted by coolwelder62

If you find out that you have the wrong frame stand's, the ding's can be fixed. Build some flange & collector block off plates, then put a valve stem in the collector. Heat the dinged area to a light dull red, then fill the capped header tube with no more than about 60PSI of air pressure at first. The dent should slowly push it's way out. After it's cooled start using scotch brite to work out the discolored area. I've fixed many car and motorcycle header's this way. Just take your time and work slowly.

This is Bomb Making 101, but it is effective, just be careful. The heat causes an increase in psi..........so baby steps.

I know more than one motorcycle friend thats launched a plug and put a hole in a garage wall and one window.......and a couple pairs of knickers.

[coolwelder62]

Originally Posted by Sieg

This is Bomb Making 101, but it is effective, just be careful. The heat causes an increase in psi..........so baby steps.

I know more than one motorcycle friend thats launched a plug and put a hole in a garage wall and one window.......and a couple pairs of knickers.

NO Bomb here if you follow my INSTRUCTION's.

[chr2002ca]

Originally Posted by camcojb

Sounds like you have the wrong frame mounts. Pretty common issue. The correct big block frame pads move the engine over 1/2"+ to the passenger side, and the frame pad is taller on the drivers side; this gains the clearance needed to clear the steering box with the wider big block. Many people do not have the correct frame pads and since most headers were made off a real big block car with the correct big block frame mounts they don't fit with the engine centered in the chassis like a small block.

This happens with most headers, other than the few like Lemons who actually make headers specifically for a big block in the small block location. Here's a pic and some more info:

http://www.camaros.org/engine.shtml#EngineMounting

Not necessarily true. I have NOS big block frame stands for my 69 that shift the engine to the passenger side properly and I still had to dimple my Hedmans and would've had to dimple a set of Hookers to fit near the steering box. If the #5 header tube does not loop over the #7 tube, then the #5 tube and possibly #7 tube are probably going to hit a power steering gear box no matter how correct the frame stands are. I've seen people place shims under the drivers side frame stands to create extra clearance. Some power steering boxes stick out more than others also. I had to rework my #7 tube when I changed to a different ps box.

Additionally, he said the headers are hitting his idler arm also, so shifting the engine more to the passenger side would make this worse. I saw a thread where a guy had the same problem with his Lemons and had to send that side back to get reworked slightly.

It's a difficult fit for any header manufacturer and it's a crappy situation for the original poster because of how pricey the stainless headers are and how pricey it is to return them to have them corrected.

[camcojb]

Originally Posted by chr2002ca

Not necessarily true. I have NOS big block frame stands for my 69 that shift the engine to the passenger side properly and I still had to dimple my Hedmans and would've had to dimple a set of Hookers to fit near the steering box. If the #5 header tube does not loop over the #7 tube, then the #5 tube and possibly #7 tube are probably going to hit a power steering gear box no matter how correct the frame stands are. I've seen people place shims under the drivers side frame stands to create extra clearance. Some power steering boxes stick out more than others also. I had to rework my #7 tube when I changed to a different ps box.

Additionally, he said the headers are hitting his idler arm also, so shifting the engine more to the passenger side would make this worse. I saw a thread where a guy had the same problem with his Lemons and had to send that side back to get reworked slightly.

It's a difficult fit for any header manufacture. It's a crappy situation for the original poster because of how pricey the stainless headers are and how pricey it is to return them to have them corrected.

I understand that not all headers fit correctly, but if he has different frame pads than what the manufacturer used in their header design he has little chance of them fitting without modding them. My Hookers fit perfectly (although tight) on my 69 Camaro with the correct GM big block frame pads.

[chr2002ca]

Originally Posted by camcojb

My Hookers fit perfectly (although tight) on my 69 Camaro with the correct GM big block frame pads.

Congratulations. You're one of the few! I'm jealous. Hooker makes 3 or 4 different models(design, primary tube sizes) each with completely different fitments and issues. I tried Hooker 2205's earlier this year and they fit very poorly and the craftsmanship was just horrible and I sent them back to Summit and decided to just re-work my Hedmans. I read from others that other models of Hookers(that have the #5 tube loop over the #7 tube) had no issues with fitment at the steering box, but had severe issues with it hitting their road racing oil pan or that they hung too low or hit somewhere else, so I didn't even want to try those. I've also heard that ordering the same model of headers twice from Hooker could get you 2 different fitments depending on how the guy building them was feeling that day.

It's simply a role of the dice. Even the priciest headers sometimes don't fit. I went to a physically smaller power steering box and it actually fit worse due to how certain areas stick out more than others. It's difficult/impossible for header manufacturers to account for something like that.

If I was to recommend any header, I'd have to go with Lemons also. They seem to have the least amount of fitment issues and most of time fit perfectly out of the box.