Lateral-g Forums - Good source for stainless tubing in different radii?

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- - Good source for stainless tubing in different radii? (https://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php?t=48186)

304 is the best choice for "normal" headers --- 321 is used for "turbo" or really high temp applications and then you'd use 347 filler rod.

Stainless Works sells build kits and parts.

Burns is good - in fact - maybe the best - but like others have said - they know it.

Beware IMPORTED SS tubing - some of it is crap.

If you are building something super nice. Then the only way to go is food grade stainless.

When you go to cut mandrel bent tubing on the radius bend to get the bend your looking for, you'll notice it won't be perfectly round and it won't match perfectly to the next piece of tubing.
The food grade is perfectly round all the way thru the bend radius. Its also polished inside and out.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 96z28ss (Post 585989)

Agreed, but most of the sanitary grade stuff is 1.5" or 2" OD, not in between.

-Dale

Quote:

Originally Posted by Solid LT1 (Post 584100)

Performance tube in So-Cal and Columbia Mandrel Bending in Oregon are 2 of the most cost effective suppliers of mild steel and 304 stainless steel mandrel bends, if I'm doing something weird.....Burns Stainless but, sit down when getting quote from Burns. If your doing a lot of stainless, you will want to learn about back purging your welds even Solar Flux wont get the job done, only proper back purging. Burns has some good articles on welding stainless, if you using 316 or 321 I hope your a skilled welder, that stuff isnt fun to weld.

I bought the 6" From Burns at nearly $60 a piece and the rest from Columbia at about $20 piece. Is the Burns stuff nicer... sure... but I cant find anything wrong with the stuff from Columbia either at 1/3" of the price. I'm going to ceramic coat the headers when I'm done so I don't really care about the visual of the material.

I've started tacking it up but killed my last bandsaw blade not realizing my new bandsaw had a high and low gear... I thought I had it turned all the way down but apparently not!! New blades just showed up an hour ago so I'll jump back on it today or Monday.

I was going to start thinking of a way to back purge the tubing when I do start TIG'ing it up. My TIG work has come a long way in the last two years so I'm functional but not artist level. When I bought the new shop building the previous owner left a large tank of Nitrogen- That can be used to back purge right? I haven't priced Nitrogen vs Argon since basically I'll be dumping it on the floor so I don't know which is more cost effective... I know it cost my $50 the other day to exchange my tall Argon tank.

If anyone has picks of a setup they've used to back purge tubing please post it up!

Thanks guys!

Quote:

Originally Posted by GregWeld (Post 584113)

304 is the best choice for "normal" headers --- 321 is used for "turbo" or really high temp applications and then you'd use 347 filler rod.

Good to know... I'll be starting on the Roadster Shop chassis 65 Fastback in a couple months and that is getting a TT Coyote. Everything I've bought for this project was 304

You wouldn't find me purging with Nitrogen! Your fit up would have to be PERFECT and you'd have to be a really good welder! Maybe a pro could get away with it but it's nothing I'd try.

Just use ARGON like you're supposed to. Either get a dual regulator so you can have one hose purging and the other to the torch -- or get another bottle of Argon and get a regulator on it. Either way - if you're going to do this kind of work you'll need it set up.

Get a dual regulator for your argon tank, that's the easiest way.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Revved (Post 586189)

I'm going to ceramic coat the headers when I'm done so I don't really care about the visual of the material.

Is there a benefit to using stainless if you are going to ceramic coat the headers anyway? I would love to see how these headers turn out. Are you making the primaries equal length?

I love that ICE kit, but for someone like me it is hard to justify the cost to build one set of headers. The kit you have is what, $1500?

Where are you located? DFW is a very vague description and your shop page does not say.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 68Cuda (Post 586507)

I use stainless for corrosion resistance... Don't want rust to ever been an issue. I ceramic coat all the exhaust after I build it so it all matches.

Yes that ICE kit is nice but this being my first time using it, it's not as simple as they make it look... great tool and definitely a huge help laying out the headers. Yes it is $1500 with the bandsaw blocks that help hold the tubing while you cut it.

I just bought a new building in Pilot Point. I'm north of Dallas about 45 min on the East side of Lake Ray Roberts.

Quote:

Originally Posted by GregWeld (Post 586216)

Figured I'd ask... I hadn't looked into it much yet... I was hoping I had scored with that Nitrogen tank! Maybe I can get the welding shop to trade me out for an argon tank. I'm assuming you stick a rubber plug in each end with a gas supply tube drilled through one... What type of pressure should I feed it with?

Came across these mandrel bent donuts on eBay. Very tight radius, you just pie cut the angle you need.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_odkw...donut&_sacat=0

Seller is eworldsales1

Don