Send me that bottle, I'll let you know if it's any good. :whistling:

Hopefully it's better than their 18 because that Glenlivet 12 and Glenmorangie 15 smoke the Mac 18.....IMHO. :D

I too wonder how well I'm seeing on DC, it's probably not the Jackson Truesight helmet. I was running shade 9-10 on AC and typically run 7-8 on DC.

The box is open on one side, plan is to make a lid for it.

I tacked each seam .75" in from the corners and one in the center then started the weld on the corner and paused once or twice in the runs to reposition or grind tungsten. :rolleyes: No issue with blowing the ends, I intentionally did it that way to see if I could ramp down the amperage properly. 55 amps 65 bal 200 freq (max) Argon @ 16 cfh.

I noticed that too but playing with the bead on AL will make you a better steel weldor. IMHO

I usually weld 2-3 ft worth of scrap before I do a production piece.

I think it has something to do with the cleaning you get with AL. You can see it happening. Just a theory.

2¢ from another "hobby" welder on steel tube junctions. I start with 4 good tack welds 1/2 way down the fish mouth, if that makes sense, which leaves you with 4 segments to weld. I start welding the long legs of the fish, which require the least heat, and finish with the 90° Fillet weld sections, which require more heat. You have to adjust your amps for the geometry of the joint, less for an outside joint, more for an inside corner. Also, with pieces that small, you will have to stop welding a few times to let it cool down. I don't even fully weld junctions in one shot on a full frame. It puts in too much heat, and things tend to move around more.

Visibility is also crucial. I often divide small tube joints into 1/8th's so I can reposition. You can't see the puddle if you're looking "through" the arc glare due to a bad working angle.

or just to get a better lense angle too. thanks

I keep seeing clear hand piece cups in pics... Is this for better visibility or do they offer some other benefit?

Visibility!


If you can't see - you can't weld....


They are, of course, gas lens cups so you've already gotten improved gas flow just by switching over to the gas lens - regardless of whether or not you're using clear cups.

Here's what we're talking about Revved....




http://www.usaweld.com/TIG-Pyrex-Cups-Kits-s/67.htm

My welding has improved by so much since switching to a lense. Easier puddle control and much easier when working with tubing. Highly recommend if you are serious about your work.

These are the two gas lens setups I use:

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-2...265Pwxf-XL.jpg

The Pyrex nozzle is a little fat for inside corners at times, the Alumina nozzle looks fat but the taper allows it to get into corners without excessive tungsten stick-out.

I switched to the Alumina lens and haven't went back to the Pyrex, I need to put the Pyrex back on and see what my impressions are with a little more experience under my belt.

I think I finally see your "issue"...... the grind groves on that tungsten look like someone carved the Grand F'n Canyon on the end of that poor thing!


What grit wheel are you using boy? OMG!