I would think that should help. Good luck!

PS cooler and new electric fan
 

I added a PS cooler and that seems to have remedied that nagging issue. So, I'm on to the next nagging issue.

I've been using the cheap chinese "chrome" electric fan (16") that came with the car. I don't see any part numbers on it and have no way of measuring the CFM.

Currently, I have a 185*/175* temperature switch. During extended drives in stop/go traffic, the coolant temp will creep up to 220*. As a side note, the gauge may be off by 10-15* because, according to the gauge, my fan does not kick on until 195*-200*.

I got a new Derale fan and installed it and went for a drive this past Saturday. It was humid and mid 80's. The coolant temp stayed at 205* for most of the drive, only creeping up to 210* sitting at a few consecutive lights.

I feel there is still some engine tuning to do that may help lower temps. We'll see what I can manage there.

Daniel

Fuel pressure regulator and brake performance issues solved
 

Recently, I started the car (took a second due to being about 40* outside and no choke) and it had been idling for about 5 minutes. I was glancing at the engine, checking for anything unusual, out of habit. I noticed a stronger than normal fuel smell. I looked on the passenger side of the engine bay and out of the corner of my eye, I saw a drip. Turned out being a steady drip from my fuel pressure regulator. I shut the engine down and wiped up the fuel that was puddling in the intake manifold.

There is a hole in the upper FPR casting where the fuel was coming from. It's a Summit FPR and from what I've learned, that whole is designed to weep fuel when the diaphragm fails.

Summit told me to pound sand when I told them their fuel pressure regulator failed. I ended up going with a billet, rebuildable, Aeromotive FPR. Problem solved.

As for the brakes, I felt they didn't stop as I believed they should. I could stop safely, but couldn't lock up the brakes. Even though it's a manual setup, I felt like I should have better stopping performance. The pedal is firm and felt as I thought it should.

The master cylinder I was using was a 15/16" bore. I called Wilwood, gave them my part numbers, car info, and explained the issue. They said that the Superlite 6R pistons are small and require more PSI than their other calipers. With that, he said I need a 7/8" bore MC and that would provide about 150 PSI more force when the pedal's depressed and would allow for a bit more pedal stroke.

I got the new MC installed and pedal feel and brake performance are much improved.

Daniel

Still looking pretty clean under the hood. Sucks that parts fail @ the rate they do these days but I guess that's another case of "It Is What It Is".

Daniel, those louvers on the fan shroud are near useless.
They help a LITTLE bit at freeway speeds but bumper-to-bumper they just allow hot air to circulate from the high pressure under hood to the low pressure between the fan and radiator. Get some rubber flaps and install them in place of the louvers.....as many as u can fit.

ScotI- thanks. Yes, it is what it is. I’m just glad I caught the fuel leak before a fire.

Beechy- yep, that’s at the top of the list of winter projects. :cheers:

Daniel