just a heads up as i have seen it about a half dozen times at least, when the shaft brakes, rear end gears sheer or anything to cause the sudden rpm change in the trans you can hurt the transmission. i have had to rebuild a few because of it. make sure you have time to test out the trans before you leave on your trip incase you need to have it rebuilt.

1 was a turbo 400 and the other 5 were 4L60E in trucks.

Very cool! Back when I worked a parts counter I had a book that made me look smart in these areas! :lol:

I just ordered a universal loop kit and will put that in while I'm repairing the floor. Looks like it needs to be about 6" behind the front yoke.

Yikes...what am I looking for? Noise, slipping, hard shifting ?????

hey man, sorry to hear about the damage but I gotta say your car is super clean! love it!

noise and slipping, missing gear (most the time its the gear that it was in when it let loose). its different on them all just depends on what the trans wanted to do. one of the 4L60's lost 3-4 since they use the same clutch pack. the TH400 lost second. just go beat on it some to make sure everything works like it should.

:thumbsup: :thumbsup: That's one thing I can do! :lateral:

Here are some pics of the floor and exhaust damage.

By the way, I followed Jim's advice on setting up the throttle body (it was showing 1 percent at idle and not going to WOT. It idles down so much faster now...albeit through open headers at the moment.

You can see where it snagged the wires and emission hose as well as the battery cable. Let me ask you guys that have batteries in the trunk. Where/how is the safest place to run that cable??????

http://mcspeed.homestead.com/publish...~element68.jpg

Here you can see where it tore the seatbelt mount off the floor on the passenger side. It is only hanging by a thread. If the carpet was out you would see daylight.

http://mcspeed.homestead.com/publish...~element69.jpg

In the short run I am going to see if the local muffler shop can bend two short runs of pipe to replace the crushed pipe. I realize now my X pipe in the middle is way too restrictive. We built this exhaust to make servicing the car a breeze with multiple drop out sections on the bell clamps.

I'm thinking this is why certain racing organizations require a DRIVE SHAFT LOOP...

Ya think??

Man oh man....

BTW -- the safest way to protect you battery cables - is to not have your drive line break in two pieces! :rofl: Baring that, running them outboard on the "frame". Of course this question really can't be answered because it all depends. :cheers:

I set the cable up in this car just like all the Corvettes did from the factory did on the 3rd gen models. Running it along the side of the frame seems like an issue for any sort of T-bone accident which would likely short it out and cause a fire in a hurry.

I'm actually considering putting it back up front - except my air box is where the battery would go. I'd have to fit it in the driver fender front which would be kind of goofy too.

Sorry about the damage. When I had the battery in the trunk on my 69 (pass side), I ran the cables over the rear wheel well and up through the channel under the door trim plate. Used one of those battery cable posts you can mount on the floor (under the heater box) to pass it into the engine compartment. This way the cable was inside the car rather than exposed underneath.