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Sorry for not updating sooner. Progress has been at a snail's pace. Had to move my parents into a assisted living place, dad in an out of the hospital, work busy. When the car was at school, I was probably able to work on it 4-5 hours a day 5 days a week. Now I'm lucky if I do 4 hours in a week (if that).
I did however manage to finish installing the exhaust and hangers (still just dumped before rear axle). Started test fitting some 6.5" speakers in the rear package tray (felt like fiddling that day). Rebuilt the entire RS door mechanisms with new parts (the existing ones all the bushings were shot and a lot of rusty parts). http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...gSystem031.jpg Routed all the power steering hoses and installed a power steering cooler (pictured above between oil and trans coolers): http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...Routing002.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...Routing003.jpg Routed P/S return on the subframe (with tiagon tubing over the braided line) back to the P/S pump. (very tight under there with those big -10 hoses). http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...Routing004.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...Routing005.jpg Installed Amsoil's bypass oil filter system kit. Its a nice kit came with mostly everything you needed. I had to buy a few more fittings and extra hose to route it as I wanted. Ended up being a pain to route the hoses around my oil pan and headers (not Amsoil's issue), but with some extra fittings and hose was able to get it done. I really like the nice clean look under the hood: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...oseRouting.jpg Maybe in the future if I need it I'll do some type of oil priming plus reserve (ala Canton). Took most of the paint off the trunk, starting mocking up rear battery installation, decided to switch from a Moroso battery box to a Optima Battery with hold down. Just seemed easier to for cable routing. Looked like to me with the battery box, I'd almost have to permanently install the battery (least with the 0000 cables I want to run). Currently working on the trunk and battery along with perhaps a rear firewall between the trunk and passenger compartment. Trying to figure out how the best way to route the battery cables through the firewall w/o having to buy a expensive crimper for this one use (since I want to run the 0000ga starter and ground). Thinking of bolting on and sealing the firewall, looks like attaching a single piece from the trunk side to the package tray divider might be the easiest way to close it off. Looking for a non-permanent solution (rather than welding it up). |
Its nice to see some updates, Keep them coming.
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Good job.
Keep up the good work & keep us posted.:thumbsup: |
Work slowed down a bunch so I have been able to spend more time on the car.
Started pulling the entire interior out in prep to route battery cables: Floors where not too bad: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...orFloor002.jpg Except for bunch of rust in the passengers floor area: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...orFloor001.jpg So I stripped the entire interior down to bare metal using an angle grinder with wire wheel cupped brush: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...orFloor004.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...orFloor006.jpg This is one of the messiest jobs I have ever done, not much fun at all. Also stripped the trunk (really got up and into as much as I could with a wirewheel on an angle grinder): http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...orFloor009.jpg I gotta say I really hate the body shop that plastered my trunk with tons of bondo trying to hide the rust and holes. When I looked at the car when I bought it, it certainly looked ok. But once I started to stripe the trunk you could immediate tell something was up with all the bondo. Basically I need a full trunk pan, but not going to deal with it now I want to get it running. One of the many holes: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...nkStart004.jpg About to pull off the top headliner and do the same to the top. Mocked up a rear firewall that is bolt on: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...irewall004.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...irewall003.jpg Bought Summit's kit for a drive-shaft loop and modded it to fit my application (also made some reinforcement plates): http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...aftLoop004.jpg Had hoped to install one in both the front (near the trans) and rear (near rear axle), but the rear one is out there is simply not enough room near the axle due to the large 3" exhaust. |
Hard to take a good pic of the driveshaft loop with the car 2 feet off the ground:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...aftLoop006.jpg Was able to get it within 6" of the centerline of the u-joint so should hopefully pass tech. Doesn't look too bad from the interior side: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...aftLoop005.jpg In process for mocking up the rear battery placement and measuring for battery and electrical cables to go the front the car. Drilled several holes in the floor boards for bulkhead fittings (drilling big holes in good floors is scary ): http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...eadfitting.jpg Mostly trying to juggle the very beginning of electrical and should be starting to paint and then insulate the interior. Thinking of putting Damplier Pro and their Thermal block product on the roof. And a mix of Damplier Pro + Lizard Skin (have a bunch left) on the floor / doors with some Heatwave Pro around the trans tunnel and Luxury Liner Pro (more Second skin products) on the floor, then run the battery, ground and B+ cables over this then lay the carpet. |
Good job man. Looking good. Floor didn't look too bad at all.
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Its all the holes in the trunk that is disappointing to me, but I'll deal with it. |
It looks good Ed. It will be worth it in the end knowing what you've got under everything. Atleast it mostly looks real good, and the trunk doesn't look too bad. Keep us posted on your progress.
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Thanks for the vote of confidence Wayne. Certainly not as bad as I have seen on this site and others but definitely not what I was expecting. Here is more pics which is kind of typical of a number of places around the trunk pan:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...r/Trunk008.jpg And other side: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...r/Trunk009.jpg I am pretty sure that at some point my car had been in a rear end collision and trunk pan got tweaked (you can kind of see the rippling in the pics below) which probably made the rust worse (from water leaks). You can see some welding done that definitely wasn't factory. Someone had gone to great measures to cover it all up with bondo, and smooth it all out and paint it up nice :( Only because I did a mini-tub did I ever start finding out what was hidden beneath the surface. I would have left the trunk alone cuz it looked so purdy :mad: But going to treat this all like body work / paint and deal with it later. I live in Sunny California so I can just get it on the road and drive it a bit and a bit of fun. |
Started pulling headliner out. Pretty much one of the few areas (other than body / paint) that I haven't pulled out or redone yet:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...adliner001.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...adliner004.jpg headliner wasn't too bad except for one tear near the dome light: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...adliner007.jpg But since had the rest of the interior apart and was planning on sound deadening and insulating the interior figured I might as well do the complete interior. Also my car came with white interior with blue dash: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...maroInside.jpg that I am thinking of changing to a black interior and since the headliner was blue was going to need changing anyways. Anyways took a few reference pic/measurements also started labeling all the headliner bows: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...adliner017.jpg Was thinking I could maybe get the headliner out in one piece w/o ripping it, but after going slow a few rips later and I was tearing it apart. I was able to get the rear sail panels out in one piece with the tack stripes intact. So far the roof looks good. Most of the original padding seems to be in-place and intact: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...adliner026.jpg Next up the messy part of scraping the ceiling. |
... arms very tired ...
After a lot of scraping the roof was able to remove all old insulation/padding. My best friend was a sharped putty knife I sacrificed for this task. Odd thing was as I was taking off the old insulation I saw really nice unrusted roof: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...adliner028.jpg But by the time I had taken off the entire amount of insulation the entire roof had flash-rusted: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...adliner030.jpg Must have been some reaction of the glue + bare metal and the open air. Probably the messiest job I have ever done. I can't remember a time I was dirtier and that includes grinding the paint off the trunk/floor or when mini-tubbing. I played the racoon(had safety googles on and mask), this is what the mask looked like: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...adliner033.jpg The padding disintegrates into almost something like thick potting soil even looks that way too: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...adliner029.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...adliner034.jpg So now with all the padding off I hit the ceiling with a wire cupped brush: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...adliner037.jpg I was a bit concerned with the paint on the roof so I went slow and kept checking the paint on the roof, but didn't notice anything. But by the time I was done with the 2nd panel (took a couple hour break between panels) looks like my paint started to bubble on the roof: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...adliner039.jpg Any ideas from keeping this from happening elsewhere? Just go slower? Had been feeling the panels to make sure they didn't get very hot (kept moving to another area if it did start getting hot to touch). Happy about nice solid interior roof, not so much on the actual exterior roof paint. Kind of scratching my head on this one. Just poor panel prep? I am pretty sure whoever did the paint kind of half-assed it maybe this is another sign I need a paint-job. Which I know is in the future after I have driven the car a bunch. I had been thinking of just getting the dings fixed for the mid-term. I just wanted to enjoy a driver quality paint job and not having to worry if someone dinged me in a parking lot, but the bubbling really looks like crap now. |
It's definitely the dirtiest job I can remember doing. I just did this last year. Once you start, you may as well finish it because you only want to get this dirty one time. :)
We used KBS coatings to treat the underside of the roof. That's a bummer about your paint. I was worried too, but kept moving without being in one area more than a second. It takes longer, but the panel turned out okay. Another suggestion is maybe throw some cold and wet rags on the roof to keep the top a little cooler. Just a thought, Tony Huntimer RaceHome.com |
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Tony thanks for the idea :thumbsup: |
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But at least now I have the ceiling clean: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...adliner040.jpg |
Nice and clean now Ed.:thumbsup:
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Lots of updates.
After taking most of the interior down to bare metal and roughing up with 240 grit and cleaning up, masked off the roof: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...adliner047.jpg Painted with Eastwood's Rust encapsulator (2 coats) followed by 2 coats of Extreme Chassis black: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...adliner060.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...adliner061.jpg Let it dry for about a week then added Second Skin Audio's Damplier Pro: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...adliner062.jpg Followed by their Thermal Block product and taped up all the edges: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...nterior042.jpg |
Finally got the interior floor clean enough to where I would feel comfortable to use Por-15 on it:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...nterior006.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...nterior007.jpg This is after roughing up the entire floor with 220 grit emery cloth. Then used Por-15's marine clean followed up by their Metal ready product: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...nterior015.jpg Figured I couldn't do the entire floor in one sitting with both 2 coats of por-15 then seam seal and chassis black, so figured I would divide up the floor in sections and do a bit at a time. http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...nterior018.jpg Had to leave myself some place to sit on the floor to reach the back corners http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...nterior022.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...nterior020.jpg Finished product: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...nterior023.jpg |
Rear package tray with closeouts are painted as well and started to put down Second Skin's Damplier Pro:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...nterior035.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...nterior031.jpg Got all the way up to the firewall. Need to mock-up all my gauges and senders and figure out how everything is going through the firewall before I finish up on the firewall. http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...nterior036.jpg Still need to do the doors, rear quarter window areas and rear package tray. Planning on putting down heatwave pro as the next layer on the firewall and trans tunnel area and then Luxury liner pro. Overkill pro on the doors. Started install on Screaming Performance's closeout cans and kickpanels http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...nterior039.jpg |
Great job Ed. Looking good.
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Ought to be nice and quiet on the inside.
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Nice job. That floor pan was clean enough to eat off of.
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Getting that floor clean was a pain, spent way too much time grinding on it :rolleyes: |
Awesome job it came out beautiful. You should be good for the next 50 yrs with that prep work. Glad to see it coming a long.:thumbsup:
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Just been plugging away slowly. Built some more rear shelf close outs.
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...nterior043.jpg Mounted the Morris classic concepts rear 3 point seat belt brackets (very nice system definitely recommended). Part of the closeouts integrated with the MCC brackets as they mount underneath the package tray and the side closeouts I made help sandwich the tray. http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...nterior053.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...nterior054.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...nterior055.jpg They are also covered with Dampflier Pro to keep them from rattling. Took a slight detour and decided that I wanted to listen to some music so wired up my battery and then my amp, head unit and all 9 speakers (front/rear speaker+tweeter pairs and sub) Using Screaming Performance's kick panels and closeouts: http://www.screaminperformance.net/c...ick_panels.htm Really liking them: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...nterior039.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...nterior047.jpg And my temporary wiring for some tunes while I keep working (everything is fused don't want to burn things down before I get the car on the road): http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...nterior051.jpg Using Alpine's IDA-x305 for a head unit to control my iTouch (very cool can tranverse my iPod's playlists, artists and genre etc lists). Alpine's PDX-5 to drive all the speakers and 2 sets of Polk Audio's 6-1/2 component speaker systems (MM6501) with their 10" DVC sub (MM1040) for speakers. So far with just a bit of tuning it sounds as good or not better than any car's system I have had. Been listening to it non-stop while working on other stuff. Definitely the location for the rear dome lights in the sail-panel area is a great place to mount tweeters, as I have the rear tweeters mounted there and they really make the system I think along with the front kick panels. Put down what I have left of Second Skin Audio's Thermal block product (had used most of it on the roof). Was able to completely cover the firewall, trans tunnel and driver and passenger floor boards (least till where your feet go). http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...nterior049.jpg I just wish the stuff wasn't so expensive or I would cover the entire floor with it (almost $300 for 4 sheets or 24sq ft). The rest of the floor will get covered with their Heat wave pro (which I had bought before the Thermal Block product came out). May even double up in some areas like the firewall and trans tunnel over the Thermal block with heat wave pro. Then onto the sound absorbing Luxury liner pro. Doesn't look like I can get much more down underneath the gas pedal thou, probably have to skip some areas if I am still going to fit carpet in. |
Your making some nice progress, and getting the sticky stuff out of thew way. I'm the oposite plenty of time but no car yet.
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Great update Ed. Those are some nice speakers. Polk Audio make some nice stuff.:thumbsup:
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Still plugging away slowly on the electrical, have most of my battery cables made now. Have B+ power up to where the stock battery location is. Test fitted the main dash harness. Got the rear harness in and routed, still have to solder all the rear connections. Waiting for some Packard connectors so I run the DSE wires through the main bulkhead (need 1 male series 59 and they are hard to find only place I could find them was terminal supply co).
Got to thinking I have all these relays for fans, and head lights as well as a bunch of fuses for same and I want to use fuses for the main B+ line for the AAW engine harness as well as the Alternator instead of fusible links. Basically a bunch of fuses and relays. I already hid my MSD ignition and Spal fan controller in the front corner (passenger side) near the stock battery location. There was just enough space between them and the radiator to stick all this stuff. But since I am trying to hide all the electrical and routing it around the inner fenders I figured I would hide all these fuses and relays in a box. First I found this for my fuse requirements: http://bluesea.com/files/images/prod...48_182x182.jpg http://bluesea.com/products/7748 I was needing something that could handle 150amps for my alternator, as well as going down to 30amp fuses for a bunch of relays and ignition etc. Even has a negative bus bar as well. Can handle 6x ATO (1-30A) fuses and 4x MIDI (30-200A) fuses, perfect for my application. This is what I have so far: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...icalBox001.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...icalBox002.jpg Able to pack quite a lot in a small package. Basically the big 2gauge red at the far left feeds the main fuse box, the other 2 gauge is fused at 150amp for alternator input, black 2 gauge feeds the negative bus bar. I have a 60amp fuse for the main B+ line of the AAW engine harness, 30amp MIDI fuse for the MSD ignition. One 30amp fuse for the headlight relays and 2x 30amp fuses for the electric fans. Still have room for 4 more fuses for expandability in the future. I'll end up painting the box black and should hopefully disappear on the radiator support. I'll make some stand-offs out of 1" aluminum round stock to mount the box: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...icalBox003.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...icalBox004.jpg Also put some metri-pack connectors on the low current wires so I can pull the box easily if needed. |
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Thanks for the compliment :thumbsup: |
Still plunking away. Took a TIG Welding class and narrowed rear seat frames. Used the instructions found in this thread as a baseline:
https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=28606 This is what I started with: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...tFrames002.jpg Ended up touching up all the spot welds since some of them looked pretty shakey. Also added a few extra bars for reinforcement as well. Now the frame is nice and solid. One of the welds: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...tFrames003.jpg Powder Coated: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...tFrames005.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...tFrames006.jpg In the car with Arizen Racing seats (front) and matching rear cover: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...arseats003.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...arseats002.jpg Bad news is found out later I was losing my job of 10 years. So budget for anything car related pretty much dried up, thou I have lots of time now lol. Slowly trying to finish up electrical (have most everything done now except rear wiring taillights etc). Decided with all this time to polish this 4" aluminum "L" bracket that I am using to mount fuses, cut off switch etc to in the trunk. This is what I started with: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...Bracket003.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...Bracket001.jpg And ended with: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...Bracket006.jpg
Got to the point where I was putting more scratches in than I was taking off so I basically called it quits then. Spent way too much time on it but never had tried polishing aluminum like this. Ended up having it powder coated, which dulled the finish a bit but it is now pretty durable, hardly anyone but me will every see it anyways. Good news ended up getting a really good new job so now I'll have money again but little time, but I am so close now to having electrical done I'm hoping momentum will carry me to starting it up. |
Nice progress and congrats on the new job. :thumbsup:
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Glad to hear you got a new job. Good luck. Nice job on the polishing.
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Good on you that your doing it mostly yourself with what your learning! :thumbsup: Keep it up.
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WOW!!,This is amazing build thread.There is a ton of super nice and very hard work put into this great build.:thumbsup: :thumbsup:
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Thanks guys!
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Well been a long time since my last update. My new job really hasn't left much time for working on the car, but to be expected in the first year, gotta prove myself. But it has been a rough year, my dad ended up dying, but got through it all.
Had been contemplating a new 5th since they came out. Wife finally decided for me that it was time to jump in. A few years ago I had given her, her dream car around Christmas (Suby Outback), so she returned the favor: 2013 Camaro SS2/RS - 1LE in Ashen Grey Metallic with NPP performance exhaust and nav: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps72c45815.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps96aecbc4.jpg Car is such a blast and fun to drive and really a head turner. Picked it up a week ago last Friday and already have over 350 miles on it and on my 3rd tank of gas. Already some stuff mostly appearance (blacked out emblem kits etc), and a Bluetooth ODB-2 reader so I can use torque on my Android phone. Trying to get a good feel for the stock vehicle before I start with engine and suspension mods. I'm a little torn, I swore to myself before I wouldn't get a new 5th gen until I had my 69 Camaro vehicle on the road. Basically all the electrical is done just been hunting down gremlins (oil pressure gauge doesn't work, fuel leak), but it has been started in my garage just haven't gone around the block yet. On my todo list for the 2013: Appearance/Interior/Misc:
Performance (once I get used to the '13 and after the '69 is on the road):
Be nice to start going to some autocross gatherings try my hand a bit. |
Sorry to hear about your father.
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