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Greg |
BTW, keep in mind that argon is heavier than air. Make your breathing hole at the high spot. If you're using a flow meter, you can do the initial purge at higher flow rates... for example 20cfh, then once you are pretty sure you purged the whole thing, turn it down to 5cfh.
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You're almost ready to tackle a set of custom headers. :D |
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:peepwall: :popcorn2: :D |
I ran one bead through a line of soapstone today and it wasn't terrible. A little discoloration in the flame but overall the bead did appear to that bad......
Then I proceeded to make my first attempt at 2.5" exhaust tubing. One piece of mild and one of stainless. http://sieg.smugmug.com/Other/Weldin...IMAG3634-L.jpg http://sieg.smugmug.com/Other/Weldin...IMAG3638-L.jpg http://sieg.smugmug.com/Other/Weldin...IMAG3639-L.jpg Beer goggles......... http://sieg.smugmug.com/Other/Weldin...IMAG3636-L.jpg Now where's that "thrown under the bus" smilie for GW to use? |
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That depends on whether or not I want to type the whole thing out -- or just cut and paste the part that's important. I read A LOT..... and I research A LOT.... When someone asks a question -- many times I'll go out and research MY answer to make absolutely certain I'm telling someone the right answer... and sometimes I find a little nugget here and there that's worth remembering/sharing. Sometimes we just "think" we know something... I prefer to double check what I "think" I know. In doing that - I usually learn something too! |
You're coming along nicely Siegmaster!!
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Yep looking good to me Sieg, but I'm still learning.
Greg |
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TIG - to look good - is a very methodical Dip move dip move dip move. I think new welders get mesmerized with not trying to burn through etc but then kind of freeze up... Practice the rhythm and the rest will come. Also - I think you have too much heat... which will cause you to struggle with too much thinking about burn thru... back off the heat until you're struggling instead with making a puddle... then up the heat just a tad... now work on the rhythm. |
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Greg |
Wait til you guys turn 60.... by then your practicing and skills should make up for what you can't see... :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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I don't have enough time under my belt to grasp a feel for the ratio of heat, speed, and filler to puddle advancement.........yet. Practice practice practice!!! :sieg: |
I'm not sure if this is the right place for this question, but here goes.
I noticed in the Fairway Chevelle thread that the exhaust is mounted to the frame with tabs. Does stainless tubing not grow when hot like my aluminized tubing on my HEEP? My exhaust on the HEEP grew about an inch and a half when it is running. Would it not be better to use the rubber hangers that the bar slides into to hang our exhaust on these cars? THANKS |
Good question -- with many variables to the right answer. Is there a "bellows" added to the system? Is there a woven stainless coupler in the system? How much horsepower? Turbo'd? Blown? Etc.... it's all about the heat in the system.
I personally have installed both styles of hangers.... but I always use a woven stainless vibration / flex couplers which I think helps with the "movement". The stainless steel exhaust in my '32 (which is very short) grows an inch - and I've had nothing but issues with it because of the way it was hung (I didn't built it) and I think adding a flexible coupler would have solved the problems. |
Greg,
Thanks for the reply. I saw the stainless bellow and I agree that will help with vibration and some growing. However, I'm wondering with the exhaust tied to the frame in at least two places, if it will push forward to the headers. do you think the bellow will take all the slack? Seems like it will start putting too much pressure on the headers. Now, please don't get me wrong, I know ironworks knows what he's doing, i'm just going from what I saw on my HEEP. I don't want the exhaust to be a problem on my Chevelle. Thanks. |
Personally --- this guys slow talking drives me crazy -- but he does good videos... and you'll learn something from him.
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Guess I'm supposed to watch it huh? :sieg:
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I picked up something in this video that HE DID NOT DO... which I always do on SS..... I clean the oxide off the edges before I weld with a rolox disc (fine)...
He also welds at the same speed he talks -- S L O W L Y..... IMHO way too slowly. But you still learn stuff from his videos because he produces them as though he's talking to a classroom full of 5 year olds. :popcorn2: |
He's another guy I feel delivers good info. He talks faster too. :lol:
His TIG Finger product has merit..........I'm going to try a shortened piece of Moroso plug wire shield I have laying around. |
The guy that taught me said do what ever you have to so you are comfortable. Don't say any thing but I wear an ove-glove when I'm doing aluminum.
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WeldingTipsandtricks.com is a very good video website.... and I agree -- he just gives you good info and shows you some techniques.
Real men TIG with bare hands.... |
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Ouch.... :D Something -- as in ANYTHING -- that can keep your hands comfortable -- is well worth using - regardless of what that is. Of course - like all things - the welder needs to be adaptable to the business at hand... the material (some transfer heat faster than others)... the amount of heat needed to make the weld etc. The thin little TIG gloves we all use certainly don't offer much protection. |
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I do wear an apron when I sit down MIG....Like on xmas eve, no one likes burnt nuts. With about 6 hours a day on sit down mig, thats alot of nuts. :lol:
I was amazed on how how much more I am relaxed and how much better I weld when im not thinking about pain. I use to get these nasty side finger burns from the tig torch. I have very delicate fingers. |
Hi guys
First post here on Lat G, was going to save it for when I start my own project in the next few months. However I thought you might like these. I do a lot of tig work in my job, my local welding supplier gave me these goggles to try, after I used them once I wouldn't give them back. Auto switching to shade 13 Good quality and come with a fire retardant balaclava so you don't end up with a Raccoon tan line on the face. Great for roll age work or any job where a helmet restricts head access. http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/...psc8442f65.jpg http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/...psdfd62e13.jpg http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/...psa3d74671.jpg Been gaining inspiration and knowledge from here for years now, I even feel like I know some of you guys by now! Ben |
WELCOME BEN!!!
Nice set of googles! And yes --- I've managed to get "sun burned" on my arms and my face! Who knew?? :rolleyes: Glad a real welder posted in here ---- what are we doing wrong? Or right? |
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Welcome Ben, those goggles are very cool........do they have magnifiers for them?
Look forward to your contributions. :thumbsup: |
Practice practice practice..........about 40 2" beads and 3.5 filler rods tonight.
http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-6...-6SqckwT-L.jpg http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-D...-DKsGcs3-L.jpg Only 4 tungsten grinds! :woot: |
looks good, can't really gauge the tempsfrom the pictures but some look consistant. how fast are you moving between?
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Thanks for the welcome guys.
If anybody is interested on the goggles they are made by Servore and called ARC-513. You can get a clip in peice that prescription lenses fit int, I guess these are making for the old guys. Greg, I'm not sure I am a real welder. I'm self taught with 20 years practice. I was 15 when I picked up my dads AC/DC tig. Nobody in his shop could use it so I had to work it out myself. I had nobody to teach me, no Internet for YouTube or forums and it was an Italian made machine so the instructions wernt even in English. Pretty steep learning curve. :bang: Sieg, the ones on the right in the second pic are pretty good, before the heat builds up. Maybe try a smaller filler rod so you don't need as much heat to flow the filler into your pool. Sometimes I cut .8mm mig wire for the really tight joints. The heat is building up in your material which makes it hard to not burn the stainless as it goes in. Unless you drop your amps right down. Weld two pieces together, let them cool down before you weld to the side of it again. Fist ones look good but that heat build up is a killer without a pedal. Practice practice practice, it's only going to get easier. |
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I was running 32-34 amps on the stainless. Just flat stock running beads on top of it with 1/16" rod. I was wishing I had .040" rod. I have .023" stainless MIG wire but felt that would be too small. Here's a bad pic of the backside of the stainless, 25% of them had some sugaring. http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-T...-TLWrdq7-L.jpg Here's last nights first attempt at lap welding on 14 gauge cold roll, running 52-55 amp max. http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-P...-P554jbm-L.jpg |
Do you have Palsy? Have you been tested for Parkinson's? Have you seen a doctor lately?
Just kidding you of course...... You're doing "fine". You're still erratic in your feed technique and forward movement - but that gets better with practice. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++ |
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The 14 ga was 3 different runs using different max amps, torch angles, and tungsten movement. This TIG stuff is real easy especially when you have LOFT! |
If it was easy ---- the fat chicks could do it!
And if it was easy ---- it wouldn't be any fun to try to master! |
BTW ---- I still think you're a bit focused on the "amps" ----- and when learning --- your natural tendency is to weld real slowly.... building too much heat. When you turn your heat down -- way down -- you can focus more on the hand coordination of moving and dabbing and oh crapping....
EEEEEEEEEEHHHHHHHHHAAAAAAAAA |
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