I've also had a set of custom brackets being made by Jones Racing. Its a little tricky on my motor because of its location and the procharger. We discussed where I wanted my alternator and power steering pump mounted, then I gave them all the measurements they needed and they do a mock up on there in house big block. This is one of the pictures they sent of my brackets that should be shipped out this monday. If anyone needs custom brackets, give CJ a call. I also purchased my alternator and ps reservoir from him.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...ro/mockup2.jpg

Man!! this is one bad A&& build.I totally love this ride.And after seeing this and skull crusher,I will need to have a big block.

I don't think I could ever live up to 'skull crusher'. :lol:

lol:lol:
Very nice build. Should be a killer car when complete. Keep us posted.:thumbsup:

Agreed.....you'd be lucky if you lived up to a 74 Pinto .:lol: ....just remeber..."Skull Crusher" has to have Mickey Thompson Tires only to hold all the power and it has ...4 point 1...Oh....gears along with the smallest looking 3.5" exhaust I have ever seen. ;)

I got my brackets installed, and the sway bar arms bent to shape.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...o/DSC01488.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...o/DSC01491.jpg
A few more little issues and parts and the front suspension should finally be together.
The Intercooler is out getting a tube inlet change and I'm waiting on the drawings for the radiator from Ron Davis. Hopefully I'll get a bunch more done over the next month. :)

That looks SICK!!!!!!

Thanks for noticing. I feel sick when I think about how much time and money I spent on it. :lol:

Dude, believe me, it looks killer. Show that bad boy off!! lolll....:thumbsup: :cheers:

You know I went back and looked over the thread again, & WOW!!.This is cool.This is going to be one of the coolest 2gen's on the site.I Really like this car.Can't wait to see it in action.:hail: :thumbsup: Scott.

The shop foreman was in as allways today. Ever patient and keeping the riff raff out. :lol:
He keeps me company during my many hours of work.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...n/DSC01493.jpg

Look's like he could use a hair cut.Plus tell he is blocking the view of my favorite 2nd.gen.Man I love your car.Awesome stance.Scott:thumbsup:

That stance is amazing. This will be one of the best 2nd gens around.

That's a cool shot! :thumbsup: My dog is the same way. has to be involved with whatever I am doing! lolllll..
That car is NASTY!:cheers:

Beautiful car!

:captain:

Alex

I love the engine set up. Can't wait to see it all together:thumbsup:

Thanks guys!

are you going to run the car at that ride height on the front? I ask because it from the shots from the front, it looks like your roll center is below ground. The plane drawn thru the ball joint back to the lower A arm bushings would be pointing upward as you look from center of the car toward the tire.

When I go back a couple pages and look at the front suspension shots with no tires, in nearly full droop, that plane looks roughly parallel to ground - this all may be vantage point issues with the pix, but if that is the case (parallel down around full droop) your roll center requires attention or this car will handle pretty poorly.

Not out to bad mouth, just opening up discussion in case this is something that was overlooked... and out of curiosity, what is the distance from the bottom of the spring pocket to the ground?

Must be a vantage point thing. At full droop the outside hangs about 2" below center. The pics were taken when the car was dropped the first time from the jacks with the suspension in the way it is now. Good stance but lower then it will run at (except maybe maxton wich is a straight line). At ride height it is about level.
I haven't played with height a lot yet, just getting everything to clear and sort out all the issues.
The spring pocket is low, only about 2 1/2 inches from the ground the way it sits now.
The springs are 750lb, so it doesn't move around a lot when it is at its ride height.

If you have the lower plane thru the ball joints and inner pivots parallel to ground (not talking anti-dive, etc that will tip the plane, only looking in 2 dimensions from the front of the car) you should be okay. Roughly (by eye) your uppers would be only say 10-15 degrees of angle, which would put the roll center (RC) above ground but maybe around 2", but it also shouldn't move up and down a lot thru motion. Also your upper is short enough v. the lower you should still have camber gain for the first couple of inches of compression, so again, should be fine.

You just really want to be sure that the RC doesn't go from above ground to below ground and back - that is bad for handling. For a straight line none of this matters, but I do assume at some point you may want to go left or right at more than 0.4G :D

Also, keep in mind that you have spring rate, then there is wheel rate, or what is referred to as motion rate (R). On a strut style car where the spring is directly attached to wheel (in essence), the R is almost at 1:1 which means that for every 1" of wheel motion upward, the spring is compressed 1". You should measure yours to know for sure (super easy, PM if you want details on how to do it), but by eye I would guesstimate your spring's centerline to be roughly half way between the center of the tire contact patch and the lower A arms inner pivot points. So your ratio is 1/2:1 or 0.5.

BUT

when you do the spring rate math, that R value gets squared, meaning that if your R = 0.5, your wheel rate or "effective" spring rate is 1/4th (0.25) of the rate marked on the spring. So your 750 lb/in springs would really roughly equate to 750/4 = 188 lbs/in. I suspect, again by eye, you are not quite 0.5 and maybe more like 200 lb/in effective rate.

For comparison, my 914 Porsche race car, with no engine in the front and pretty light corner weights on each wheel (~500 lbs on each wheel sitting in the garage) I had struts with 300 lb/in springs and now am converting to my own custom dual A design with an R ~ 0.55, so to get about the same effective spring rate I am going to 1000 lb/in springs on the front! The rear is nearly the same story with 1500 lb/in rear springs v. the old 550 lb/in setup I had (motion ratio was around 0.9 before).

Lots o info there but figured you might like to know that if you didn't already, otherwise, it's here for others edification :cool:

All the suspension build has been done with the advice and input of Mark Savitske. When the final assembly/ride height is done he will have me calling him again for the set up specs etc. For the most part I have it under control. (I think lol)
:cheers:

I got the intercooler back yesterday with the inlet tube moved to create room for the new radiator. Hopefully I'll see that in the next week or so. :)

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...o/DSC01500.jpg

You have an absolute monster in the making. Do you think you will have traction issues on the street? Or will you cruise on the streets and only go WOT on the track?

I had a lowly Procharged 355 SBC in my street car and so much time was spent at 1/4 throttle 1000 - 2500rpm my calf ached..... I could just about stay out of wheel spin when racing others and that was with 315/35/17 MT DRs on 11" rims.

I figure you will have maybe 600lbs of torque just off idle. It's going to be a handful but definitely fun....

Killer build!!https://lateral-g.net/forums/images/smilies/woot.gif

I was hoping I could just finesse it :_paranoid
I doubt I will be just stomping on it like I used to be able to, and thats what I wanted. I wanted a motor that had a little more then I could use and I would drive it at the best the car could handle. (or I can handle)

Hey,Bud do you have any update's.:thumbsup: Scott

Not too much done over the last few months, but I'll try to post up what little I did do over the weekend. Having some financial recuperation time. lol Hopefully back at it on a regular basis in march. :cheers:

Wow!!!

So here is one of my few updates. I came up with this gizmo to tie the sway bar to the lower control arm. Its just in loosely right now and the actual bolts and spacers may change, but this gives me quite a bit of adjustment because the link can also go on the other side of the tab. It also keeps a full range of turning for the wheels in that limited space. Hopefully it works ok.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...o/DSC02059.jpg

Looks great.
Nice to see you working on the car again. Keep us posted.:thumbsup:

I also got my custom double pass rad from Ron Davis, with dual spal fans.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...o/DSC02060.jpg

Any new updates ?

Yeah, you just got yourself a life ban from my garage. :lol:

Wow. I missed this thread. That thing looks wicked.

Weathers getting better so I could open the door and work. Got the suspension back together again minus a couple bump stops and the steering stops.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...o/DSC02075.jpg

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...o/DSC02076.jpg

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...o/DSC02077.jpg

That looks sweet . Nice set up.

Look's great.Man i love this ride.Keep up the awesome progress.:thumbsup: Scott

Thanks Scott. I'm going to have you come up to Canada and make me one of those dashes for my car. :cheers:

I bet I could fab you the lower unit and the gauge insert and send it then you cut in the hole's needed for gauges switches,etc.Scott

I will get in touch when I make it to the interior for sure. :thumbsup:

Well, I lost my cable tv a few minutes ago so here's what I did today. :lol:
I have a feeling this will be one of those put it together take it apart 20 times things. Front end will go on tomorrow and set the intercooler height, then I'll make brackets to hold the rad in place.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...o/DSC02080.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...o/DSC02079.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...o/DSC02078.jpg