I usually crank the amps up to max for the tungsten then modulate with my foot. Too many numbers in my head as it is. Only time I really pay mind to the amps is when I know im going to be welding for more than an hour at a time then i'll set it so I can full floor the pedal and concentrate on the puddle.

Also I use a fixed #12 lens when I tig. No flash and blind. My eyes are much happier now.

Number 12 lens! :confused59:

Do you paint your TIG rod white with a red tip? :sieg:

Just now seen this thread, and read the entire thing. Tons of great info, and links. Lots of very nice welding also.

I believe what he means; is that when you place two square tubes side by side, the corners are thicker than the flats. Where as, if you but the tubes together end to end, then the thickness would be as listed.

Could not agree more! I have a Miller Syncrowave 250, a Millermatic 200, and a 110v Lincoln mig (don't remember model, it's at my brother's house). 9 times out of 10 I will TIG before I MIG. I know both of my Millers are older, but I bought the TIG over 12 yrs ago, and got a steal on the Millermatic. I will post some pics of some of my welds tomorrow (not on computer now.

I've had to buy helmets that go down to 8 so I can see.... LOL

^^ This! ^^

Has anyone been having issues with China sourced tungstens for their TIG? I bought some stuff off Amazon supposed to be 2% Lanthenated but it's fracturing and splitting on AC......my Thoriated stuff (DC) is old Linde stock works like a champ! I'm using a dedicated diamond wheel to sharpen the stuff. Gas system is fine, water cooler is fine. Please tell me brands your using with good quality.

I have found that when you are taking time to create and prep a work piece that trying to save a buck on un known quality consumables cost you alot more money in the long run.

My local place carries CK products and have been very happy with them.

Since im here I want to share an experience I had today while doing some aluminum work. I was welding along, and about 3 mins or so into the bead the filler would start collecting onto the tungsten. Getting sucked up is all I can describe it. Its also strange that this did not happen when I was doing my practice runs. About 30 mins on scrap. Note that this has never happened to me without accidentaly getting the tung in the puddle.

Turned down the gas, adjusting it for more cleaning helped but as soon as things heated up i would start up.

Check out the picture, you can see the blow back spots.

So im going back and forth and I noticed that if I wiped my rod down with
acetone it would stop doing it for a longer period.

While texting I inedvertenly swapped my welding gloves and the problem never came back. Turn out when I was fitting the weld bung for the filler cap lubricant from the o-ring saturated the index finger on my glove. As the rod got hot and my finger got closer to the puddle it would release more contaminants. Bam blow back.

Moral of the story keep your gloves, equip and rod clean when going ball deep. :smiley_smack:

That is a great reminder Vince. Everything has to be clean with tig

Made some welds on my frame last night. First time welding in about 6 months. Used 1/16 ceriated with 1/16 er70s6, 140 amps max. First to were ok, last two look good to me. Let me hear your thoughts.http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...315_215607.jpg
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...315_215629.jpg
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...315_222813.jpg
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...315_222823.jpg

Here is what I am welding in (the short brace in front of the xmember).
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...315_222846.jpg
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...601_134414.jpg