I want to replace my floorboards
 

Does anyone have any pics and advice they can give me. I have a drill, some air tools, a cut off wheel, a lincoln mig welder. I've been doing patch jobs but the rust is cancerous so I want to just do a whole floor replacement.

The car is sitting on jack stands without a front sub-frame. Will I need to brace the entire body, or is cutting out the old out and putting the new back in a simple enough task?

Thank you in advance everyone.

You will need to brace the body. I know there are much more qualified people here than me on this subject though. Maybe someone who has done it on a first gen will chime in ..?:cheers:

Sounds like you have the main tools for the job, there was a good article in either car craft or, hotrod mag. I will see if i can dig it up, or maybe someone else can chime in?
Good luck

Yes I would brace it up before removing the old floor if you are planning on using one of the 1-piece dynacorn floors.They are real nice and the way to go if floor is rotted in more than one area.I have done a few and can help with info. if needed. pm me your cell number and I'll be more than happy to call you and help with what you need to do. Joe.

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...air/index.html
Here is the article I was talking about. Hope it helps!

That's a pretty good article. No need to leave the torque boxes on the frame rails since the new floor has them pre-installed. The other thing the article doesn't mention is that the floor will not clear the dash going through the front window opening on some models (69 camaro). So Installing from underneath may be easier. Bracinging front to back and side to side is a must. I did this myself in my garage with normal tools and a welder. Try searching at camaros.net as well for research.

Good luck!

Replacing Floor Boards
 

Here are some photos on how I brace a car when I am replacing complete floor boards. We cut out the floor & the trunk & left material on their that will be cut out when the shell comes back from media blasting.

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/...n/P1010070.jpg

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/...n/P1010069.jpg

Good information guys:thumbsup:
Clay, If you do your homework I think you will be just fine!

How do you get the car up onto the cart if its not completely stripped down?

The body is loaded on the cart half assembled with my 2 post lift.. Then we square, measure & weld the body to the cart.. This 68 Camaro will have custom suspension with floors & will be pulling the qtr panels to widen it up with tubing for some fat tires :unibrow:

QUOTE=jcal87;248637]How do you get the car up onto the cart if its not completely stripped down?[/QUOTE]

Check out the link below from my build thread if you need additional pictures. As Redfire mentioned above, the floor will not clear the dash if you install it through the windshield. Since you have it on jackstands, just install it from underneath the car. My car was on a cart and the floor could only be installed through the windshield opening.

It's a really straight forward install and the floor fits really nice. What kind of shape are your toe boards in?

https://lateral-g.net/forums/show...t=19253&page=3

My driver side toe board needs replaced, should this be done prior to removing the floor?

You'll need to remove, at minimum, the lip on the floor pan that welds to the toe board. Go check out the pictures I have. They're pretty self explanatory. PM me if you have any questions.

I replaced my toeboards after the older floor was cut out and before the new one was welded in.

The way my bracing was setup I had to go through the windshield opening so I had to cut a temporary notch at the back corner of the floor in order to clear both the dash and rear window open. Then I butt welded that notch after installation. I would try to go from underneath if I had to do another one.

Ron

Do you have to brace the floor if your only doing half pans or patchs?

I wouldn't worry with it. Just make sure the car is level.

How do I go from underneath if its on a cart? or can I just brace it all up throw the whole car on jack stands and then do it?

With it braced like this how do you get the floor pan in?

HOLY COW I soooo forgot I posted this. I've been real lazy the past month or so... and today I was cutting out some of my floor boards, just in small patches and was trying so hard to think if I needed to brace the car or not hahahah:lol:

I only cut out three spots so far. Where the driver puts his feet, and both spots in the back where passengers would put their feet....

I should still be ok as long as I brace the car tomorrow before I cut anymore out right???

Thanks for everyones posts by the way I got lots of info and I should hopefully have these out in a few days, without having messed something up in the process.

Here is how I braced. Did I do enough?

http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/a...f/104_1215.jpg

http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/a...f/104_1216.jpg

http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/a...f/104_1217.jpg

I would add some more bracing that ties the front and back sections together(of the braces you already put in) This will also help keep the car from twisting. You are going to remove a MAJOR structural portion of the chassis, any extra bracing you can do will only help keep the car squared up.

This car is getting a custom built floor.. so we work around the bracing we have welded in it!!

alright I'll throw in a few more braces. I should still be ok, and the car didn't flex yet, I mean the rear section of the floorboards are still there. I guess I'll find out for sure if I try to install a new floorboard and I'm an inch off somewhere :_paranoid