![]() |
1st gen F-body drop spindle
I have searched everywhere and can't seem to find the answer. I am looking for a 2" drop spindle that will work with the 12" wilwood brake kit. Nothing fancy (ATS, a billet piece, etc) just a spindle that will work and relatively inexpensive. I have read fatman's are garbage and heidts maybe the best ones to use if they will work. Any inputs or other suggestions?
|
rideteck
|
Call Darren at Ride tech.Their product's are 1st. rate.:thumbsup:
|
I cold be wrong, but isn't Ridetech sourcing Fatman spindles in their set up? I know they used to...
|
Ride Tech has it all worked out. Most drop spindles will place your steering arm 2" lower than it is now and that usually causes contact between the tie rod end and the tire or rim. Ride Tech has the Tru-Turn system that raises the steering arm out of the way.
David |
so who else besides Ridetech? just curious
i have a smithcraft front sub/arms so i have to make sure these will be compatible. |
Does the Smith racecraft sub not use a front steer Rack?
|
it does use a front steer R&P. I spoke with Smith and the ridetechs will work, and just trying to see what all my options are in terms of drop spindles.. the sub looks just like this
http://srdparts.com/index.php?page=s...emart&Itemid=1 |
wound up ordering the ridetechs, everyone says they will work so we will see i guess:_paranoid
|
Looks like they use a stock F-Body spindle and use a custom steering arm for the R&P. Our spindle will be fine as it's a direct replacement for the stock unit.
|
Quote:
|
Ricer,Give me a call on Mon. Maybe I can answer your questions once I figure out what you'r wanting to do.1.785.594.7481Scott.
|
Quote:
|
If you need any help feel free to call.:thumbsup: :thumbsup:
|
Wilwood listed they only guarantee hiedts drop spindals will fit and say they should fit with others. I used hiedts with the 14" wilwood kit and they fit perfect. I know you bought but letting people know. Todd
|
so i finally got around to installing the spindles and i can spin the castle nut to just barely finger tight while not being so low on the ball joint that the cotter pin won't be within the nut.
Has anyone ever had to add washers/shims/etc to the ball joint to be able to get the appropriate torque on the castle nut while still being able to have the cotter pin nested inside the nut? I am thinking 1-2 possibly 3 flat washers should do the trick but just wanted outside opinions as well. |
| All times are GMT -7. The time now is 03:49 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2026, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright Lateral-g.net