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68 GT500KR Vert
Project Overview
The Car: Was working on another Mustang for 3 years - the shop I was working with turned the car into a abstract work of art. So with all the part I had I started over by picking up this car about 7 years ago from a horse barn outside Pittsburg, PA. Got it home, ended up being pretty much rusted everywhere. Hasn't been on the road since 1985. Had no motor or anything else, pretty much a shell. The Work: During the 10 years I've been working on it, I've had 3 different shops try to rip me off, take advantage of situations, deliver incredibly poor work, and take me to court because they wanted to get paid for work they didn't do and had closed the shop. Luckily, I haven't lost that much money, but it took a while to save back up again and find the right shop who really cares about their work, customer, and perfection. They finally started on my car last week after years in storage hell and battles with other shops. They just started redoing the rear end work to get all the panels and gaps aligned and will be working their way forward in the next few weeks. Engine: Never used 1970 429 SCJ engine with 4 bolt main and original oil cooler (The complete short block is original - Sat in my Dad's shop since it was new. * Only replaced in the lower half were the bearings. * Stock heads - D0OE-R Heads (Hardened seats, SS Valves, Bronze Valve Guides) * Compcam Springs & Roller Rockers * Compcam Roller Cam * Compcam Roller Lifters * APR Head Studs & Bolts * Holley finned aluminum valve covers powered coated silver * Edlebrock RPM Air-Gap manifold * Edlebrock Water Pump - powder coated clear * Concept One Serpentine Pulley Kit - Black * ATI Balancer * Canton Oil Pan * Powermaster mini starter * Ron Davis Crossflow Radiator & SPAL Fan system * ICE Ignition System, Booster, & Distributor * Classic Auto Air A/C System * 565HP / 595TQ under 5,000RPM Fuel System: * Pro System 950 Carb * Holley HP In-Line Billet Fuel Pump * Fuel Safe Pro Cell 22 Gallon Tank * Earl's Fittings and Lines Electrical: * Painless Wiring Harness - 1968 Mustang * New accessories wiring harnesses (Convert, Fog Lights, Etc) * Battery In Trunk Exhaust: * FPA Custom Ceramic Coated Headers * Magnaflow 3" stainless steel exhaust system Drivetrain: * Performance Automatic C6 with Custom Torque Conv * Steel driveshaft * Strange 9" rear w/ 31 spline axles, Positrac 3.50 Chassis: * Rod & Custom Motorsports Mustang II Front End with coil-overs modified for better steering and handling. * Rod & Custom Motorsports Rear Coil-over system * Forged 2" drop spindles * Flaming River Steering Column & PowerRack. * TCP Subframe Connectors & Cross Brace + Additional Custom Support. * All new frame rails, torque boxes, inner rockers, and floor - all seam welded for strength. Brakes: * 4 X 12" Aerospace Components Pro-Street Disc Brakes - D/S/P & Billet Aluminum 4 Piston Calipers * JMC dual master cylinder * Hydratech Brake System * SS brake lines Body: * Stangaholics 1968 Shelby Fiberglass kit * All body panels replaced where needed[Ford tooling panels when available](rear qtrs, front fenders, complete floor pan, inner rockers, toe pans, seat riser, radiator support, rear valance, complete trunk, transition pan, taillight panel, and wheel housings) * Engine bay custom constructed for MII front-end * Red / White Paint Scheme * Black Chassis paint in engine bay and underbody. * Haartz Stayfast Black cloth convertible top. Interior: * Dakota Digital Dash with trans gear indicator and accessory gauges for the Shelby center console. * Black Pro-Car Rally seats & matching rear upholstery. * Lecarra Steering Moto-Lita wheel * Saleen Light Bar * Lokar gas pedal assembly, brake pedal cover, & foot rest pedal * Lokar Shifter * Electric Life Power Windows Wheels: * Shelby CS67 Wheel In Anthracite (18x8.5 front / 18x9.5 back) * BFGoodrich g-Force T/A KDW (235/40ZR18 front / back 275/40/18) Other: * All brackets and accessories will be powder coated. http://imageshack.com/scaled/640x480/843/8iqb.jpg http://imageshack.com/scaled/640x480/707/6awr.jpg http://imageshack.com/scaled/640x480/199/2p0z.jpg |
Stage I
I had actually started out with a different car in 2004, but the 1st body shop butchered it so bad, I sold it off for someone to build a drag car.
The shop the was working on my engine had offered to handle all the sheet metal and frame work as they believed building race car chassis is the same as doing restorations. This was in 2006, the beginning of me learning about restoration and dealing with shops. While he did a decent job cleaning up my engine, his restoration, sheet metal, and frame skills were not up to par. I gave him new front frame rails, he cut off the front half of the old ones and added box tubing, wasn't happy about that. Had the car media blasted while I was away, he never primed it, then when he did he went right over the rust. I had bought him weld-thru primer, he didn't use it. By the way, he was doing all this work while I was away in Iraq. Came home to some fun, really wasn't happy, pulled the car right out. Went on the search for a new shop, talked to 3 different shops, felt good about them, 18 month backlog. http://imageshack.com/scaled/640x480/849/54sq.jpg http://imageshack.com/scaled/640x480/191/s738.jpg http://imageshack.com/scaled/640x480/820/n3hq.jpg http://imageshack.com/scaled/640x480/833/sjg4.jpg http://imageshack.com/scaled/640x480/10/xods.jpg http://imageshack.com/scaled/640x480/844/5f2x.jpg http://imageshack.com/scaled/640x480/21/ac69.jpg http://imageshack.com/scaled/640x480/42/3x8c.jpg http://imageshack.com/scaled/640x480/844/2l8j.jpg http://imageshack.com/scaled/640x480/7/7r9i.jpg http://imageshack.com/scaled/640x480/10/bgw9.jpg http://imageshack.com/scaled/640x480/34/lvqc.jpg http://imageshack.com/scaled/640x480/716/j3xi.jpg http://imageshack.com/scaled/640x480/541/6dvv.jpg |
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Stage II
So, I found out one of my neighbors had a shop in his back yard - he races cars - super perfectionist - you could eat off his engines and cars. He just clean them with Q-Tips. So I put the suspension, brakes, and wheels on the car and we towed it down the road. He fixed everything on the chassis, had great suggestions, fit the engine / transmission, rear end, steering, suspension, frame connectors, installed and custom fit the complete exhaust, aligned everything up, and order and installed my driveshaft. Plus, he didn't change me much - mostly beer money.
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Stage III
So the car was rounding into shape. Then 2009, I relocated to Tidewater, VA. Started the search over for a new shop - talked to the restoration guys in Norfolk, Va who are on TV, way too expensive $60k+ to finish the restoration. Then another shop in Norfolk told me to bring it down for a “Free Estimate”, they build $250k muscle cars and came highly recommended. While they were giving me this estimate, they offered to have it re-media blasted and primed for $1500, seemed a fair deal. They had it 10 weeks, media blasted most of my doors, cowl, and dash, and to come in to get my estimate - $1000 for the media blasting, $1500 for the “Free” estimate. Had to work them down to $800 just to get it out of there even though he didn't do what was agreed to and he sprayed epoxy primer over my VIN Plate! BTW – the estimate was over $65k. Over the 3+ years since I moved here I’ve looked at 6 different shops, not one truly gave a crap about their work or charging a fair price. Last fall I attended a local car shop, saw a really nicely restored 55 Chevy, beautiful paint job, perfect lines, and it was freshly done. Asked him did it, told me it was the little shop that only does a few restorations a year because he loves it and the rest of the time does insurance jobs to make money, but be aware, he’s real slow – but his work is perfect. I went over and saw the rest of his work, it’s very nice. He’s also a really nice guy. Brought my car down in Feb of this year. He’s agreed to do everything for one price – I can drive it home. I supply the parts. He’s finally pulled it out of the trailer after the classic Jag and Camaros he was doing were done. They started taking it back apart, saving what metal they can, and getting the back-half lined up – tail panel is in place, the Qtrs are getting replaced again, the truck wasn’t welded back together right the first time. But in 3 days of work – he has the truck lid lined up perfectly and the gaps on the trunk and the doors are dead on! The car is already so much more solid. They are coating the insides of all the frames, rockers, boxes, and inner panels with rust inhibitor, and removing and treating any rust or pin holes, even on stuff you’ll never see. So excited to see what happens next week.
My $800 Media Blasting Job!: http://imageshack.com/scaled/800x600/843/bhyn.jpg http://imageshack.com/scaled/800x600/46/wree.jpg http://imageshack.com/scaled/800x600/23/aivq.jpg http://imageshack.com/scaled/800x600/823/fjvd.jpg The Start Of The End: http://imageshack.com/scaled/800x600/42/ngeu.jpg http://imageshack.com/scaled/800x600/198/j3x6.jpg |
Passenger Side Quarter almost fit - door gaps are close.
Taillight panel, Trunk Bumper Brackets, Truck Support, and Trunk Corner parts are welded in. Trunk lid gaps are perfect. Convert Rear Support Corner parts welded in Trunk floor and supports rewelded Couple of little patches of small pin holes Surface Rust cleaned up, rust convert and encapsulater sprayed on Inner & Outer Rockers spread with Rust Preventor / Inner Framerail coating http://imageshack.com/scaled/640x480/12/fwvp.jpg http://imageshack.com/scaled/640x480/22/1as0.jpg http://imageshack.com/scaled/640x480/834/8qpu.jpg http://imageshack.com/scaled/640x480/856/kxav.jpg http://imageshack.com/scaled/640x480/138/mnm0.jpg http://imageshack.com/scaled/640x480/191/ysgg.jpg |
Updates - Pass Quarter panel almost done - things are fitting well, almost there, then onto the Driver's side.
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Rendering looks great. YOur journey sounds horrible.
THat was not a Shelby body originally was it ? Just a normal vert ? I am always modifying my Mustang too and my next version will also be a '68 Shelby look vehicle - by far the best looking Shelby year. Its funny, I can't stand '67 Shelby's but I love '68's, to most there is not much difference but to me its night and day. Hopefully it will be nice car when done. I'm not a big fan of MII front suspension and there are a lot better choices now but it should drive real nice either way. I wish you luck and keep us updated. Your experiences are why I turned this into an obsessive hobby and I am out in the carport every night doing my own work because I can't afford nor trust the shops ! |
Very Cool Project.!!!!!!!!!GL &:gitrdun: :thumbsup:
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One heck of a build. Sorry to hear of your past experiences with the other shops. Good thing you didn't lose a lot of money. I hate when shops try to make you pay for garbage work.
Keep us posted. :thumbsup: |
Really great ideas you have going on there. Love the rendering. Good luck!
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man you've had a heck of a time, glad you found a car lover.
nice project. |
The back half sheet metal is almost finished - the guy was out sick for 2.5 weeks. All sheet metal should be complete in 2-3 weeks. Then paint.
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Rear Quarters, Outer Wheelwells, truck, etc are done. Everything lines up very nicely, fit and trimming look really good. All the sheet metal has been primed or rust proofed. Front fenders are on to start mocking up the engine compartment sheetmetal and replace the front framerails that weren't done right. Few patches on the doors have been started. It's getting closer to paint.
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widening the rear valance to fit the 3" Shelby dual exhaust tips:
http://imageshack.com/scaled/thumb320x240/809/on6b.jpg http://imageshack.com/scaled/thumb320x240/837/12e3.jpg Big Update First the orders - lots of parts - love the black Friday / cyber Monday sales: * The rest of the interior, carpet, dash pad, console, door panels, vert top frame parts, top hydro lifts, etc * Backup, side marker, and license plate lights, gaskets, etc * 3 Point seat belts for front and back * The Hydratech Braking Systems - but I'm having it machine to use the CNC master cylinder I have - heard they work really well together * I found engine compartment panels already made for the Rod & Custom front end kit, plus firewall and cowl vent patches - and they are very fairly priced compared to having them custom made: http://www.mustangstofear.com/catalo...ry=sheet_metal Car Updates: * Rear Valance has been shaped, fitted and welded on * All the Fiberglass is being fitted and cleaned up this week - will be bonded on * Engine compartment sheetmetal and front frames will be finished in the next week or so. * Car should be primed by the 20th and color in Jan. http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/320.../c/14/11v4.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/320.../c/17/8f7t.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/320...c/593/imrd.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/150...c/703/rrtp.jpg |
UPDATE:
The Engine Compartment Inner Fender, Heater Patch, and Cowl Panel patch panels came in today. I dropped them off. - The passenger door has been patched and repaired - The side scoops and ground effect fiberglass has been mounted on both sides. - the back end is looking good. http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/320...c/542/jbx7.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/320.../c/14/hast.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/320.../c/43/t8uo.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/320.../c/10/anmr.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/320.../c/11/awk6.jpg |
Driver rear side ground effects done - so we figured out I need to modify the left side FuelSafe cell now that I fit the dual 3" exhaust tips - never realized the fuel tank isn't centered. I need to cut out the left hand side a little to clear the tip and tig in a new piece of aluminum. I guess that's the price of custom body change.
The front frame rails are gone! doing them over again, weren't done right the first time - They checked them - they were a 1/4 inch higher on one side than the other - I could tell just looking them them, they checked with a level - I have a weird eye for that. http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/320.../c/24/gnx3.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/320...c/801/z118.jpg Front Frame Rails in process of being repaired: http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/320...c/854/ance.jpg |
The front frame rails have been replace from the suspension point forward, radiator support is in place and the upper fender support sheet metal is in place. The engine compartment panels need a little fitting and should be done soon. The Mustangs to Fear sheet metal was pretty good, few issues, but not bad.
I measured out the new radiator and sent Ron Davis the drawings for a custom build, 4 weeks to build, should look sweet! I order Shelby fiberglass hood springs from Cobranda - they did not work, way to strong, will be ordering Ring Brothers Air Frame Hood Hinges instead. The engine is coming out next to finish up the firewall smoothing and fill in the cowl vents. Not long till it's in primer. Decided to paint the entire car red, even the engine compartment, it's easier on the painter to do one color - I didn't care. Also need to modify the fuel cell, it's in the way of the exhaust tips, found a local guy to do some welding and fitting - need to quote still. I'm hoping it's not a issue to notch the cell - since it's just a plastic liner inside I hope it doesn't cause an issue to just allow the liner to be a little crushed when put back in the tank? Also going to ask him to flowjet a different convertible plate - had to add spacers to it for the 3" exhaust to fit, I don't like it, asking him for a quote to make me one like the Hotchkis plate - maybe cut out GT500KR where Hotchkis is on the sample. http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640...0/541/qx8c.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/35/q17l.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640...0/801/n1kd.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640...0/824/v6fl.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640...0/844/uygq.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/4/tblu.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640...0/203/fihy.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640...0/600/ke8b.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/62/fi57.jpg |
Mustangs To Fear sheet metal is almost done - cowl panels, heater box, inner fender replacements.
Smoothing the entire firewall - opening up the radiator support to fit the new radiator. Figuring out what holes stay and what ones go. Need to run the gas, brakes, engine wires, light wires, steering, and ignition wires. The rest get closed up. http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/23/m0ob.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640...0/855/9c5i.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640...0/849/pnyz.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640...0/829/w8yo.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640...0/197/ux7d.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/89/8hzd.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/24/v3zg.jpg Went down to check on the car today - the guy working on mine has been out sick the last week - no progress. - dropped off some more parts - talked to the owner - most of the body work is done - he's going to put the car on the rotisserie soon and then get a bunch of suspension, brackets, engine, and other parts together to drop off at the powder coaters, also getting the headers and extensions to X-pipe ceramic coated, most likely the oil pan and intake too - the Canton pan's coating eroded away and the intake manifold was powder coated - but some spilled gas ruined the coating. - found a local place that can do all of the coating, took a long time to find someone other than JetHot to do it, I just don't want to ship it all out Having a Fab guy come by the house in a little while to talk about building a new convertible support plate - making it drop instead of being flat to clear the exhaust. |
The car has been stripped and will be getting primed this week. Need to pickup all the suspension parts and engine parts to get coated.
The new Center Support Plate has been designed - will be built soon. He's also going to cut out "SHELBY" on the sides of the plate. From this: http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800...0/824/v6fl.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800...0/844/uygq.jpg To This: http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/23/n0pp.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800...0/560/09mr.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/27/7idt.jpg The car is back apart - final fitment and block sanding before primer. Parts are off for coatings. The custom support plate and Y subframe have been complete and fit. The guys is working on finishing up the welds and adding support brackets to strengthen it; it came out awesome! https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-D...212_115825.jpg |
Ok, this forum should be caught back up, I hadn't posted here in a while.
here's the update:
* Finally got Ron Davis to design, build, and ship the Radiator - it's a month late - I ordered it in December, was told they'd have it to me by the 1st week of Feb because they were behind - it just shipped yesterday after many phone calls from them promising it was being built and shipped every day for the last two weeks. Will be here next Weds. * Ordered the Hydra Tech Brake Booster - shipped them my CNC master cylinder to machine and fit. Will be here in 2-3 weeks. * Dropped off the parts to be ceramic and powder coats last Monday, should be done next week. * My Summit parts order came in in two days - new intake, exhaust, and oil pan gaskets. Needed for the parts I pulled off the engine to have coated. Also ordered a nice billet Ignition Wire Loom. * Custom center plate and Y subframe component is done and delivered - the guy did a amazing job. He spent way more hours fine tuning and fitting it to the car then I expected. * The driver's side interior engine compartment panel is installed. Body guy just has a little more clean up on the front end then it goes into the booth for primer. * I should have all the parts in for the engine by next weekend, so I want to paint and assemble the engine & trans completely at that point. If anyone needs a convertible center plate that supports up to a 3" exhaust or would like something custom - my guy has the cad design and template done: https://www.facebook.com/16weng or http://www.16w.biz/ He does absolutely amazing custom work at a great price. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-x...221_145404.jpg https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-N...221_145353.jpg https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-a...-no/Plate1.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-z...-no/Plate2.jpg |
Coming along nicely! The center support looks great and the Shelby lettering was a nice touch. :thumbsup:
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The Ron Davis Radiator has finally come in - order it in December, was promised for 1st week of Feb. The Fuel System has come in too.
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Update
I think I have almost all the parts now, Hydratech brake system came in, new brake lines, battery cables, battery, battery tray, all the cooling system parts, bunch of little stuff - which all adds up to a lot of money.
The car is mostly in one color now, few more tweaks - finishing raising the fuel cell up to clear the exhaust, few more holes on he firewall to close up, then block sanding by the end of the week, should have color by the end of next week. Viper Red with Pearl Shelby Lemans and side stripes. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-f...306_164116.jpg https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-G...306_164139.jpg https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-h...306_164225.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Y...306_164219.jpg |
aweome build keep the build going even though you been through a tough road. I almost got stuck at a shop myself with my build but noticed their bs within days and pulled it out.
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Why are the taillights in the car still and covered in primer? I'm guessing that's how they were originally? Are there reflective inserts that go in there?
Glad to see everything coming together. |
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Got all the ceramic coated parts back yesterday, they look amazing.
Ah, more fiberglass fitment issues - the front end is a problem. The firewall is done, got told the under belly of the car is a mess and needs cleanup, ahh, more money, the side skirts have been fitted and mounted - they look good. I was hoping to have the car in May, not it looks like end of summer at this rate. Gotta say I'm disappointed today. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-q...321_122310.jpg https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-2...321_122255.jpg https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Y...321_122248.jpg https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-R...321_122223.jpg |
Easy to get hopes up considering the issues you have had, but, you have a capable shop doing the work that you want....patience, its going to be a sweet car.
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What type of fiberglass fitment issues are you having ? With the headlight buckets or the valence or the integration of everything ?
Is the only alteration from the normal shelby look the rocker/valence trim and front "spoiler" ? Must admit I'm always jealous of a convertible. |
The buckets weren't bad - it's the lower valance that connects the buckets together with the upper nose bridge that is way off.
But my body guy is going to work through the fitment issues and do what he has to do to make the fiberglass fit. He also think it will fit and hold up better if we bond the front-end together as one solid piece. This will also allow him to fill-in the gaps and smooth the fiberglass. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-h...322_111453.jpg https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-v...322_111507.jpg https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-I...322_111520.jpg |
We built a '67 Shelby Convertible clone a few years ago. We used all Tony Branda parts which were supposed to be the "best" Shelby reproductions on the market. We had all kinds of fitment issues, the nose was the only thing that actually fit! The center of the hood had a huge bowl in the middle of it, the decklid to quarter panel fitment was the worst, I could fit my fingers between them. Come to find out another customer of ours had an all original '68 California Special, and the decklid fit the same way!! So it's not so much as the parts didn't fit, but the original parts that the reproductions were made off of didn't fit either!
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The stang-aholic fiber glass was pretty good quality. It's really only the lower valance that is throwing everything off - the other parts just weren't the greatest fit or were a little thin in areas, but according to multiple people, the original Shelby fiberglass, which they made the molds from wasn't that great either from the factory. I've looked at a ton of pics of original shelbys - fitment sucked on a lot of them.
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Awesome project!!!
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Yeah fiberglass sucks in general. I am building a '68 Shelby clone and I used the headlight buckets (from NPD) but fabricated everything else in aluminum (as its a widebody). I have a Maier Shelby decklid (coupe) and it fits pretty good considering, gaps are a bit big but the "curve" is good. Damn thing only weighs 1 lb less than the steel decklid though I thought the point of FG was to save a few pounds. I also have a Maier 3" cowl hood left over and it has always had a nice fit, so it is hit and miss with FG parts. For my Shelby clone I"m trying to decide whether to use the FG hood and widen it using fiberglass or just build one out of aluminum from scratch.
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You can't beat doing it yourself, you would probably spend as much time fixing the fiberglass one. I can say that the stang-aholics Hood and Trunk were perfect. The headlight buckets were a fair amount off, the tailpanel was really off, the rear quarters were slightly off, and the lower valance was completely off.
The MustangPlus ground effect were actually really good. They fit really nice and really help widen the body. Quote:
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