Bolt Size?
 

Anyone happen to have or know of a list that has all the bolt sizes used on the front end of a 67 Camaro? I plan on running stainless hardware and need the sizes so I can order everything.

Thanks! :captain:

Hi Curtis.
 

Hi. NPD have a few master body hardware kits for gen 1 cars in stainless, different head styles etc. It gives a list of the areas it covers, does like trunk hinges and a bit of other stuff around the rear also. Cheers.

Those are some nice kits, but....they don't fill my needs. I just need the sizes. There has to be a list somewhere.

:EmoteClueless:

Hello Again.
 

I know I did buy a front hardware kit from Ricks that came with a list of what size bolts went where if memory serves me correct, I know it was still in the box with some left overs. I did send it with the car when Chris was doing the body and paint, I have got it at home again and I will check tonight to see if I still have that list there and get back to you mate. Cheers Trevor.

Camaro bolt sizes
 

I want to say ATK sells kits with a very detailed list of sizes for most autos.

There is not a "list" per say. What SS bolts are you planning to run? I can get you the basics for a count. Totally stainless makes a kit but it does not have things like the clips and nut plates you need as well which are not available in stainless. If your planning to run ring brothers, or rad rides bolt, its gonna get expensive quick.

We're talking non-structural connections, right? In general stainless fasteners should not be used in structural applications.

Yeah that would probably help if I was more specific. :rolleyes:

Door Hinges, Front Sheet Metal, Hood Hinges, Fender Braces and the Trunk Hinges.

I plan to run 12pt stainless in all those places. I'll see if I can find a picture. Pretty sure you all get the idea now though.

These are from Chris Kinkers 69. Good example of the look I'm going for.

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-...-7T5NSwf-L.jpg

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-...-WMx6h5x-L.jpg

we did ARP's on a 68.

5/16" x 18 x 1" fender/sheet metal
5/16" x 18 x 3/4" fender/wheel houses
5/16" x 18 nuts fender/header panel
3/8" x 16 x 2" fender to body
3/8" x 16 x 1" hood hinges
5/8" x 11 x 3" frame to body
3/4" x 10 x 1 1/2" bumper bracket
3/4" x 10 nuts bumper bracket

Vince! YOU ARE AWESOME! That's a good chunk of what I need.

THANK YOU!!!!! :captain:

no problem.... i don't have the bolt count with me but its a bunch of them. :lol:

Vince FTW. :thumbsup:

I can count them up. Jeffs car is my garage for a few while he builds his shop.

:thumbsup: :thumbsup:

AWESOME X2!

Use anti-seize.
Use anti-seize.
Use anti-seize.
Use anti-seize.
Use anti-seize.
Use anti-seize.
Use anti-seize.
Use anti-seize.

Picking up what I'm laying down?? :hello:
Stainless on stainless especially = galling = broken fasteners = :hairpullout:

Just a recommendation :)

Not sure I follow what you're saying here. :underchair:

That's actually really good advise. Thanks for looking out for me. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

DSE sent SS fasteners with my solid body mounts. Your thoughts?

Some how I missed your response. No nothing structural, unless you consider the door, hood and trunk hinges in that catagory.

No problem.
Ask me how I know :sieg:

You're fine. I believe Carl is referencing SS bolts found at your local hardware store. They generally have a pretty low UTS, about as strong as a Grade 2 bolt. The below link shows what is typically found at hardware stores, 70ksi tensile strength....
http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-head...crews/=109atn3

ARP, DSE body bolts, etc... are VERY strong. See the link below for McMaster-Carr 12-point stainless cap screws with 170ksi tensile strength.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-cap-screws/=109aspp

Link to ARP's stainless explanation (also 170ksi tensile strength)
http://arp-bolts.com/p/technical.php

Would these be the same size for a 69?

yes. add a bunch of screws to the list

mcmaster carr sells arp but its higher cost than summit or direct

what i usually do is figure out what size i need then say if its a 5/16" x 18 x 1" bolt I'll look for a differential kit. 12 bolt chevy kit has 12 bolts 5/16" x 18 x 1" with washers. if you buy them separate or a 5 pack they will cost average is $2.40 a bolt plus the washers. it a 12 bolt diff kit you may spend $1.75 per bolt and that comes with the washers.

same with the 3/8" x 16 x 1.25" bolts, i'll buy a chevy intake manifold kit, 12 bolts w/ washers for $2.91 each and the 5 packs are $3.10 each. every little penny helps

Thanks!!

Yeah, I was going to do all arp fasteners for the entire car. Then I priced it out. Hell no, that was some serious cash. I just did all arp for the engine only.

On This.

But, it also applies to the stainless fastener kits sold by the repro parts houses. From a structural standpoint, most all of it is of unknown quality, specifications, etc. I trust none of it.

Let's not delve into proper length specifications for double shear just yet either. ..... ;-)

I hear you. Just doing the few that I am and my motor isn't cheap. It's one of those things that I really like the look of though, so it's worth the over time.

:G-Dub:

Great tip! I've looked into ARP bolts but the cost is crazy. This makes it more reasonable.

One of my biggest pet peeves with suppliers. Not providing proper bolts for their kits. Threads cutting up mounting tabs and being mounted in shear.

Even the OE parts are like this. After using the correct AN standard fastener it's hard to consider going back except on resto-builds.

Do it RIGHT the first time or forever live with a result you're unhappy with. Building these cars needs to be satisfying for many years after you get done - or you'll be re-doing or selling at a huge loss to build another...

In other words - if that's the look you want. Don't skimp and do it half assed because you will be sorry you did.

oh its so worth it.... "regret is a very expensive emotion" but put me where I am now. :lmao:

x3 x4 x5. I did that with my 69 Camaro vert. took a huge bath on it. Now I am in the same boat with my K5, but that is soon about to change.....

I'm going to have to play right field here. It's way to easy to get caught in moment building these cars and get in the mind set of, it's NEVER good enough. The carpet needs to match the drapes, but what I found most important was function and engagement. If I ever built one again I'd focus on what makes a car great, to DRIVE. The way the door shuts, the pedal arrangement, power and heated seats, killer sound system, no squeaks and rattles, great driveability, modern headlights, factory reliability, and the list goes on.. In all honesty, these are many of the things my car lacked. Instead of spending $500 on tail light housings, how about a better pedal set up? Instead of $5,000 on an aluminum block, how about an engaging interior. You catch my drift and I think your ideals are similar.

most of those you listed should already be on the list and are close to free Todd. :bitchslap: :lol: I do agree on the $500 billet tail lights, and an aluminum block. I like the little details that you can do will a little money that go along way.

You speak of what I call "Balance". I 100% agree that those types of things make the driving experience. Personally I don't need the heated/power seats, but agree on the function, fit and dependability of things. My goal is to make it all flow smoothly. I want to be impressed with the car from the moment I walk up to it, to the moment I walk away from it. I'm sure there will be a few changes here and there. One simply can't know everything they like or dislike without trying them. Right now I have Jeffs 68 in my garage while he builds his shop. I've had the car out a few times and it's the perfect way for me to really experience what works and doesn't work for me.

It certainly helps when you know the actual purpose of the car. You have more experience than most in this culture. I"ll be interested in what you end up with...

Agree that knowing the main purpose of the car helps. I would love to build one car that fits all, but that's not reality. You and I have a seen some very nice builds that end up being used regularly on the track. It doesn't take much for all those purdy gaps that hours of expensive labor went into, to be totally gone. The track life is rough on cars. I'd love to have one...and might someday, but realizing how the car would be used 98% of the time called for a different approach.

I'd call my "experience", "exposure". Rebuilding the Bucket was a great start, but the biggest thing for me has been seeing, sitting/riding in cars with other guys. Seeing the crazyness called SEMA is good...and bad. My goal is for it to be nice, but not custom/SEMA nice. Like you said, it's more of the little things like the door closing without rattles or the windows going up and down smoothly. One big thing on my list is to block out as much of the road noise as possible and to install a decent sound system and not have it be obvious. The idea of a "Clean" interior is my goal. Very stock looking kicked up a notch. With the car being a driver, there will be a few bling items like a few stainless bolts and $500 tail lights. lol Now if it was a track car....all the money would go into motor and suspension.

when it came to hardware on my build ,what i have done is buy/use what my budget allowed and over time replace it once the important stuff got done.arp stuff is expensive and i have alot of it so piece by piece i have replaced the old.

That's a good way to go. Cars are never really done and that's a good way to "tinker" and "Update". I'm going to go ahead and call that winning.

:captain: