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Emergency Brake - Electric
Is anyone using the E-Stopp electrically actuated emergency brake?
https://www.estopp.com With the roll cage down tube and that I desire to have a foot rest for my left foot, there really isn't room for the stock e-brake pedal assembly. Could integrate a hand pull in the center console but that eats up valuable real estate. Any downsides? Appreciate any input. |
I have one but not hooked up yet,story hopefully someone will help with some pics.
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I installed one in the Camaro convertible I did for my wife using C6 Z51 brakes. I had to temporarily defeat the safety connection that prevents the brake from engaging when the car is running so I could apply the brake while moving in reverse to adjust the brakes.
I'll probably use one again. Don |
funny the mention of the pulling force being too light... I had an estopp in my car and it pulled too hard, actually bend the rear e brake backing plates and destroyed the internal e brake mechanism. One of the actuators let go when I was driving the car (low speed thankfully) and it locked up the rear wheels, ruined the brake rotor hats. I contacted E Stopp and they didn't want to make it right at all. Highly recommend not going with it, but thats just my two cents
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not for that price
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I think he means one of the actuators in internal parking brake itself came loose and wedged itself inside the rotor hat.....I think.
I installed an eStopp in a car with IPSCO spot calipers and it worked quite well. Same unit, same car, now running a stock C6 internal park brake and it works flawlessly. |
I've installed TWO E-stopps ---- both using the Wilwood internal brake drum rears -- works exactly as you'd expected it too. It's a great product and an even better idea!
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Greg,
How did you mount the unit? At 600# of pulling force, it would need a fairly significant mounting point I would expect... |
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I mounted one on a 69 Camaro using the inside of the rocker area and floor - but I built a bracket that was done with blindside fastener to remove it if it needed service (which - since we had one of the every earliest versions -- it did!).... Mounting in that position kept it away from header heat... Other one was on my 33 coupe.... and It had a tube chassis.... again - a flat plate was used to mount it (for shear) on the tubes forming the tranny tunnel. EVERY car is different - nobody can create or build a mount, because there are so many variables. Ya just have to figure it out. |
I was contemplating whether I could attach it to my subframe connector somehow, as that is certainly solidly mounted. If I tried to go on the inside of it, I expect it would be too tall. I wouldn't want it hanging below the SFC itself.
I'd like to get rid of the parking brake pedal. It's really annoying during long drives. I'd be curious to hear how anyone else has mounted one of these as well... Thanx Greg. |
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I'm not going to have a back seat so I'm thinking of mounting it on top of the trans tunnel, basically facing (pulling) toward the front of the car and then having the cables do the 180 and poke out right at the wheel well. I'll hide it under the backseat delete structure, all happening behind the seats. I've measured it and it will fit....tight but it will fit. Sorry for the crude pic.
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I can't remember the thread, but someone had theirs mounted on the shelf behind the rear seat pulling laterally in the car. Seemed like a nice out of the elements, out of the way location.
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Don |
I think that reference was of me, mounting it in the trunk under the package tray. See attached picture. For my situation this made the most sense. Dry, out of the way in what is normally dead space anyway.
I am still in the assembly stage of my car so I haven't been able to try out the functionality of it, but I am hopeful. I hope this helps someone decide a mount point. Under the car was not an option. http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...pstnzfpv4a.jpg |
Thanks Glenn! Great intel, I like where you mounted it. Not being critical here but I was surprised the EStopp guys didn't have more pics/ideas/direction on install options....maybe just because the install is easier than I'm making it out to be! Where did you poke out the drivers side cable?
I've not run this past the Baer guys yet in order to understand what pulling force their ebrake is looking for -- I will serve up whatever I find. |
Different and aesthetically unrefined.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Repair-Se...O/IMG_1696.jpg The outer housing from the E stopp is threaded directly into the block on the right as is the inner cable from the right side park brake. The inner cable from the E stopp is threaded directly to the block on the left side as is the inner cable from left side park brake. The blocks look like this, I think I had to retap the blocks to match the threads on the Estopp cable and housing. http://content.speedwaymotors.com/Pr...b37eed5687.jpg The outer housings that route to the park brake are mount to a piece of 1" box tubing with a tab on each end. All of the load is contained within that bracket and there is no load at all on the mounts of either the Estopp or the bracket holding the cables. Why do it this way? When the Estopp is engaged, it tries to pull the inner cable into the outer housing.....pulling the left and right park brake cables closer together. Because it floats, it self equalizes, ensuring that the pulling force is equal between both sides. |
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I like the looks of the way you mounted it. I have to admit, I am a little confused as to how they each pull. One goes one way, while the other goes the opposite. So how is the E Stopp cable pulling in two directions? Maybe its obvious, but as tired as I am I'm stumped. Lol..... |
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Don |
Glenn/Donny, where did you guys get the brackets you used to mount the cables to (the one that has the cables pulling their respective ways)? Any info would be appreciated.
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I made it. Box tubing and a couple of gusseted tabs welded to the ends.
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Where did you pick up the brass blocks? Such a great idea! Thanks for sharing it! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Never mind. I found them. They are made by Lokar.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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Thanks, but I stole the concept from Cadillac. That is how they connect the cables on the CTS with the electric parking brake.
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Thanks for sharing this hook up! I was planning to mount my E-Stopp in that same location but was struggling with the cable routing from each wheel. This arrangement makes the routing a cinch. I know how to make this system work now. |
Cables
Any chance someone could post a few pics of how you routed the cables to the callipers ?? I've been looking at the bottom of my car for hours and I'm a bit stumped on how I'm going to run these cables
Thanks Steve |
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Try not to over think it. I was doing that for a while on where to mount this unit, and for the cables. I walked away for a while. When I came back it just hit me where to mount this unit and the cables. |
EStopp - Shorter Cable
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Dontlifttoshift,
Great mounting idea. I went to duplicate your installation but have a problem and before I call EStopp I thought i'd ask here. The unit I received has a much shorter cable than what is pictured in your installation and certainly not long enough to make the 180 turn back. Did you modify the unit or did it come with a longer cable? Pic below is what I have. |
I did not modify mine at all, that is the cable that came with it.
Maybe there was a production change? Let us know what you hear back from Estopp. |
mklinger, Did you ever find out about the different length cable on the E-STOPP?
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They all have the short cable now. I didn't ask if they could still build with the long cable.
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Thanks
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Here is my set up.
Just finished the installation, it's a pretty nice piece. I used Lokar cables, they are also pretty sweet. Smooth inner liner makes for a slick cable pull even with some pretty tight bends. This will all be covered with the center console and the rear deck area. EStopp is a little loud to be mounted inside but since this will all be covered with the center console and rear deck, most of the sound should be mitigated. The button is pretty nice and overall a pretty clean set up. Mounted it on some 16gauge with the nuts welded underneath. If you buy the Lokar cables, you won't need the EStopp splitter (the machined Al block) as the Lokar kit comes with a pretty nice splitter. The Lokar set up is actually a little tidier. |
Nice! Which dimple die tool are you using?
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