DWC's 1968 Camaro project
 

Although this project will not be close to the level of most of the very impressive builds here on Lat-G, I figured I'd share regardless. Mods- if this needs to be moved/deleted, just let me know.

Last summer I got the itch for a project that was different from what I've done in the past. I'd built/played with an FFR Cobra, '95 Mustang Cobra track day car, 2 '99 M3's, and 2 330i's. I wanted something different... The 99 M3 I currently had was in great condition and I couldn't bring myself to convert it into a track car. With the price of E36 M3's on the rise, I said what the hell...and listed it for sale. I wanted an older car with a V8 and had always loved the look of the first gen Camaros. Initially I was looking for 69's, but I found I now preferred the 68 body lines and interior and got more serious about my search.

I found a 68 for sale relatively local and pulled the trigger on it. Overall, the car was in good shape. The one thing I didn't want was a rusty mess. There were some small rust areas here and there and the driver floor pan needed to be replaced, but nothing too bad.

I've never owned a car this old or a car with a carb. I've scoured through the many excellent build threads here for knowledge/motivation. My plan with the car is a reliable nice-weather driver that can perform at an autocross. Part pro-touring, part resto-mod, part who the hell knows. I hope to gain some knowledge from those of you who know what the hell you're doing.

Updates to come as parts arrive.

Daniel

More photos:

Progress has been slow- out of town, family, house projects, blah, blah....

Finally got the factory spot welds removed. Trimmed the old and new floor pans to fit as tightly as I could.

Then started tacking the new pan in. Took a handful of tacks to get the welder settings where I needed them. Trying to take my time and not overheat/warp as I go.

Once I finish this floor pan, I'll remove the front body panels/hood/engine/trans. I'll pull the subframe to clean, seam weld, install Chicane front coilover mounts, and paint.

Interesting note- I was nosing around the engine bay...I haven't really touched that area because I was focused on the floor pan. The seller told me it had a SBC 350. Well.....according to the casting number at the driver's rear of the block, 330817, I have a '72-'80, 2 bolt main, SBC 400. I know _nothing_ about the SBC 400, so I have alot of research to do. So far, I don't think that's a bad thing. I just didn't want a BBC due to the weight.

The Edelbrock intake manifold model number tells me it is for Vortec heads. From the intake manifold bolt pattern/orientation, I believe Vortec's are what I have.

I got the driver's floor pan and seat brace/bracket welded in.

I spun the car around in the garage so the front's facing out to give me room to pull the engine/trans then the subframe. I've started to disassemble the front clip- bagging and tagging as I go.

Daniel

I got the front clip removed. The radiator support was in pretty good condition. There's a crack and a bit of rust in one of the lower corners that will need some attention. The driver's fender and fender extension look pretty good. The passenger fender has some rust at the lower body mount area along with a decent amount of bondo at the front inner corner. The top of the passenger fender extension where it meets the fender is full of bondo also.

The blower fan box and heater core came out easy. Also got some miscellaneous trim and other items removed.

Pulled the engine and trans.

I got the subframe pulled and pressure washed after soaking it in Simple Green. I wire brushed some of the seams on the underside and started welding them up. There's still too much crap in the creases and pores of the metal because the welds were coming out very porous. I'm going to have it media blasted. Once that's done, I'll heat the seams with a torch and try to burn the remaining crap out. I also trimmed the factory shock tower mounts in preparation for the Chicane coilover mounts.

The headers were covered in rust. I sanded, cleaned and painted them and they turned out pretty well.

Before and after header photos.

Daniel

I picked up the subframe from the sand blaster. It came out good. Hopefully, my welds will turn out better now.

Daniel

I borrowed an old plasma cutter from a buddy of mine and enlarged the front spring openings.

The plasma cutter was very finicky and the cuts reflect that.

But they cleaned up fine in the end.

Daniel

My Ridetech front end bits showed up the other week. I mocked up the front control arms, spindles, and coilovers to be sure I had proper clearances before welding the Chicane mounts in. Everything looked good so I burned them in.

I pulled the 8.2 rear end and cleaned it up. It was *caked* in crap. Once the rear brakes arrive, I'll pull the axles and replace the axle seals & bearings and the pinion seal.

Daniel

Been chipping away at the mundane stuff as time allows.

The rear end is painted. The axle bearings/seals and pinion seal were replaced. Started the Wilwood brake install.

The subframe is painted and ready to reinstall.

Cleaned, sanded, re-seam sealed the firewall. I don't have a current photo, but it's been primed and painted

The majority of my time has been spent on my back...scraping, sanding, priming, seam sealing, and painting the underbody. Not glorious, but it needed it for sure.

I've "massaged" the rear tub area so the Ridetech 4-link cradle fits nicely now.

Daniel

I got the subframe, front suspension, and brakes installed. I used the Detroit Speed body mounts- very nice pieces.

The upper link tabs were installed. I never figured out an accurate method to measure how straight the axle was before/after the welding. So, in an effort to reverse the warping from mounting the tabs on the top of the axle tube, I welded roughly the same amount of beads on the bottom of the axle, then ground it off. Not very accurate or scientific, but it will hopefully function until I upgrade the rear end.

Finally got it all together and installed.

Once I install the rear brakes, I can get the car on wheels and install the subframe connectors.

Daniel

The progress in the above posts' took place over the past 5 or 6 months and is up to date with how the car sits now.

Daniel

Daniel, if you posting pictures, there are no pics on any of your posts

Well, yes, I thought I was posting photos. I can see them on my end. Let me work on that.

Thanks for the heads up.

Daniel

*Edit- photos are hopefully working now.

pictures are there for me. Looks really good! This is pretty much what I'm on scale with, but I don't weld so I'm dependant on my buddy to weld for me when he has time. It's good to see a garage build to keep us regular guys motivated and not feel too overwhelmed:headspin:

Don't get me wrong- the big pro builds are totally inspirational and beyond awesome.

Nice Work! Always good to see a nice garage build!

Very nice work so far,keep updates coming:thumbsup::thumbsup:

Maybe they were still loading at the time I posted since the time is pretty close to your posting. I see them now. Nice work.

Thanks guys, I appreciate the kind words. :thumbsup:

Daniel

The rear rotors and calipers are installed.

Got the car down on all four wheels. Measured and confirmed front subframe to body alignment- all looked good and square.

Cut holes in the driver and passenger floor pans and welded the subframe connectors in. I primed the welds but still need to seam seal them.

Daniel

Nice build! I'm going to be watching... Good work so far.

I like it! Great build and you're doing it right! This is a good one to watch.

:captain:

Great progress; you're jumping in with both feet on this. I'm looking forward to your build!

Thanks guys, I appreciate the encouragement.

Daniel

Nice work/progress. I sent you a PM regarding the Ridetech arms.

I've started on the bodywork. I have virtually no experience in bodywork, but the guy that will be painting the car is giving me guidance, so we'll see how this turns out.

After taking a good look at the front end sheet metal, I decided to get new fenders, header panel and lower valance. The originals weren't terrible, but the time/cost ratio and with my lack of body experience, I thought it best to get replacements.

The lower fender extensions, cowl and hood were initially stripped with aircraft remover.

https://lateral-g.net/forums/attachme...1&d=1523281077

https://lateral-g.net/forums/attachme...1&d=1523281077

https://lateral-g.net/forums/attachme...1&d=1523281077

Per my painter, I shot the fender extensions with etch primer once I'd sanded them down to bare metal. This isn't a big deal for most, but it was the first time I'd used an HVLP gun so I was happy to learn something new. All the other priming/painting on the car has been with aerosol cans up to this point.

https://lateral-g.net/forums/attachme...1&d=1523281077

Daniel

depending on how bad your fenders and header was, you may have been better off fixing original parts. RARELY does aftermarket fit as good as original and can take as much or more time modifying aftermarket rather than fixing the original metal.

Thanks Mike. I still have the original pieces. So, if the new AMD metal is a really poor fit, I can go that route.

Daniel

Most of AMD's parts fit fairly well that I have used, but I have not used their fenders so I have no advice on how they fit.

Great job and good on you for diving in.

If you're considering an aftermarket seat and are over 5'-8" tall you may want to consider doing something different with the drivers side seat pan. Many aftermarket seats have a taller lower section which may mean your head hits the headliner. Many have left the seat pan out and reinforced the floor so the seat mounts lower.

CarlC- thanks for the heads up. Yes, I'm 6' tall and I'm planning to use these aftermarket seats:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/t...SABEgJ62vD_BwE

I need to order the seats and brackets and then see where I stand (or sit:)).

Daniel

Body work is s-l-o-w...at least when I'm doing it. I've been chipping away at stripping panels and spraying some etch primer. I'm trying to consistently devote time to the body work in order to get it to the painter soon, so I can turn my attention to other areas of the project.

Aircraft paint remover on the roof and quarters
https://lateral-g.net/forums/attachme...1&d=1525695773

The result after 2 coats
https://lateral-g.net/forums/attachme...1&d=1525695773

Stripping with Avanti Pro Quick Strip discs- these work well
https://lateral-g.net/forums/attachme...1&d=1525695773

https://lateral-g.net/forums/attachme...1&d=1525695773

https://lateral-g.net/forums/attachme...1&d=1525695773

Daniel

Not being critical but you'll get better performance from paint stripper if you keep it out of the sun and or breeze, anything that will dry it out.

I don't take that as being critical, I'm here to learn. I have mechanical experience, but virtually no paint/body experience.

I found that out through trial and error and tried to move it into shade after the first stripper coat.

Daniel

Urethane/Butyl removal and cleanup
 

I removed the windshield and back glass yesterday and now have to deal with the nasty urethane or butyl that remains in the window channels.

I used acetone to cleanup my tools and hands and it did ok. I read that WD40 can be used as well. Does anyone have a more efficient suggestion for cleaning up this crap?

Daniel

I agree...I love seeing the pro builds but I've gleaned equally as much from many of the garage builds on here. I like where you're headed with this one; nice work and keep the updates coming!

Nice work! Your doing a great job. I wish I had gone with the adjustable coil overs in the front. Keep the updates coming I’m enjoying them.

Keep up the hard work. A little bit everyday

Torqstorm

Update-

After letting the urethane/butyl in the window channels sit and dry out, I was able to get it off surprisingly easy with just a wire wheel. Happy about that.

I have 95% of the paint removed from the body shell. Just a few nooks and crannies left to get to.

I've never worked with body filler before...oh what a joy. It looks a hell of a lot easier on Youtube... I'm still getting a feel for how much hardener is needed when it's 85* out with 80% humidity. That stuff turns over *fast* with too much hardener. Also, trying to get a feel for how/how much to apply so I don't create more sanding than needed and/or dull body lines.

There are a few old rust repairs on the doors that need attention. I tackled the door with only one bad spot so far and I think it turned out ok. In the last photo here, I was about 90% done. I was able to blend it a bit better before I primed it.

Daniel

Nothing dull about that body line! nice job.