Martz subframe
 

Anyone have input on the Marz subframe? I would like to know if their frame would accept a 18x10 wheel with a 275 or 285 tire. I have a hard time getting anyone on the phone at Martz. Thanks for any help. Dave

You should pay attention to signs when you see them.

1969 Frank is sooooo right! Customer service is equally as important as the product itself. Kind of like buying a super computer but not knowing how to program it. Why Bother! :lol:

I purchased a front road race subframe from them, for my 67 firebird, and had fantastic service! Maybe this is a rareity, but i have nothing but positive things to say, and im in canada....did everything through email, and normally had a responce within a day or 2. They were more then willing to make the changes i requested too.

I must say, the front is fantastic too.....looks good, quality parts. Another guy up here also bought one for his Nova.....dont think hes had any complaints either.... Just FYI

Russ W

We did the same frame in a car and it was the flimsiest frame I have ever used. Welded pie cuts into it and tied it into the rockers ever 12", but still could not eliminate the flex at the core support.

Do yourself a little test. Put a set of jack stands at the front of the subrame under the core support and rear rails, then have a 200LB friend step on and off the rocker and watch twist delfection in horror.

I think it is a great piece for a straight line car, but not a G Machine.

JMO

hmmmm...thats no good.

couple q's.

did it have the sway bar on it? You said it was welded in, correct? did u use the firewall hoops? (really the only pieces i myself wasnt impressed with on the front end....but will be replaced with cage tie ins anyway)

I would think that tieing the cage in to the core support should help take care of any flex, plus it will be welded in as well..... opinions?

FYI...im just building a cruiser (yes with a cage and BT LSX)

Ours was a convertible. If we would have put the firewall bars in, all the stress from the flex would be on the door hinge pins and door latch pin. Bracing like that is always nice, but should never be required in threse types of cars. We had the splined sway bar.

There are some pictures on our site that will show the pie cut and rocker bracing

http://prodigycustoms.com/petes-camaro.asp

How did it drive? i like how u guys did the bracing.....with my modified rockers, i could hide all of it, if i set it up similar.

It does not show in thos pics, but we box plated it from the rockers to the subframe with 16 Gauge, which was over kill for sure. If you are doing a multi point cage, and making front down bars off the front hoop, surely that and some trianglation under the hood shoud firm it up.

The front wheels will not be centered in the wheel opnings.

mike a

Oh yeah, that too

Huh?? Any idea why?

ummm
 

maybe the control arms are in the wrong location?

Is the wheelbase correct at zero caster?

buddies nova...his wheels sit dead center....?

I would look else where, I have not driven my car yet, but spent alot of time making mine stonger, welded in alot of metal. Very flimsy. Not very happy with workmanship or customer relations. The rack is a standard NAPA unit, hard to get answers about the suspension geometry. The body mounts in the middle are where I found it flexing alot. Made firewall down bars, and added support to the mount area. Also filled in where there are holes in main crossmember, trans mount holes completely wrong, made new brakets. Engine mounts were supposed to be in stock location, cut them out moved motor to stock location and made stronger mounts. Now the McLeod shifter for my TKO 600 is exactly in stock location. Moved sway bar forward about 1/4 in. forward so it did not hit coil overs. Wheels were centered in wells before I started any mods.

I'm Having Their Front And Rear Suspensions Set Ups Installed On My 68 Mystang Fastback Now And My Chassis Guys Loves Their Stuff. The Guys There Are Easy To Talk To And Seem To Have The Right Answers.