1100hp street machine....help with rear end
 

Help!!! I'm doing a wild street car and need help with choosing parts.

69 malibu

509 Twin Turbo 1100hp 1100ft/lbs. (nelsonracingengines.com)

street tires 235/40/18 x 345/35/19

plan to back-half rear with tubs....need help with this!!!!

I'm thinking four-link with a 9-inch but not sure whose 4-link to go with....need input...Art Morrison? Chris Alston?, who?

Thanks!!!!

Lateral Dynamics 3-Link - No question.

Hadn't seen that one, thanks!! Looks killer on their website.... Anyone else?

With that much power.... you'll be hard pressed to find anything better.

Might I also suggest wider tires up front? You're going to want all the tire up front you can for braking that thing... 275's will fit on the front of an A-body without issue.

I would normally say this is a no brainer, but I don't know if it can handle that kind of power all the time. Not sure it's been tested as far as that kind of power.

Don't worry, it'll never hook anyways with a 19" street tire, ;)

Well... he could use a floater axle. That should take care of any remaining power handling issues

From their website the Lateral Dynamics 3-link is not available for the A-body. Have a call in to them to see about custom apps but haven't heard back yet. Please explain floater axle...not familiar with this term....??? I also plan to have a set of 15x10 rears for screwing around at the strip with drag slicks....engine will be capable of 1800hp on race gas and of course I'll have to try this out even though the car will be used 99% street.

Did Tom already start on your TT BBC ?

give us a call at the shop. WE can set you up with some serious strength, after all i come from the high end Desert racing industry where strength is survival. For that Kind of power you are looking at some 1.25" F-K heims with 4130 arms fully TIG welded arms and some 4140 Light Racing recievers. When it comes to building some super strong arms, we are the ones to call. Even if you are going to do the fab yourself we can set you up with the Heims, recievers, and even CNC cut out 4130 plating for the arms as well. We could set you up with something like this, but alot stronger because of the horsepower.

http://www.gmachineracing.com/images/pic_2.jpg

http://www.gmachineracing.com/images/IMG_9193.jpg

We CAD design all the parts we make and stress test even before any metal is even cut.

here is a F-K 1.25" heim, 125,000 LB rating!!!

http://www.gmachineracing.com/sitebu...312-92x130.jpg

Jason
562 595 5410

Bruce, yea the engine is underway...car in shop having turbos mocked/ headers fabbed, half of parts in shop already

Gregg

Bruce, checked out your car profile; looks like you're dealing with similar power. Is your car on the road yet?? How's that Detroit Locker on the street? I'm trying to decide between 9" True Trac 31-spline, 9"Locker 35-spline, Dana 60 True trac 35-spline....

if it hooks you'll need something like the locker and 35 splines. A bit clunky on sharper turns but totally streetable in my opinion. I ran a true trac in my last car, but don't think it'll handle your power level constantly, though if it's with street tires it may be fine.

I have no experience with the 35 spline true trac.

Jody

Would the D Locker just be clunky (noisy) or would I actually notice it influencing handling as it locks/unlocks??

Full floater axle. Basically, the norm is a semi-floating axle in which the axle inner end is supported by the diff, and the outer end/hub is supprted by a bearing which also supports the weight of the vehicle. A full-floater has a seperate hub assembly, supported by 2 bearings, that support the vehicle weight. The axle inner end is splined to the diff, and the outer end is splined to a "drive plate" which is bolted to the hub and mounts over the wheel studs. In this design, the axle supports NO weight, only rotational forces. This allows the axle shaft to be designed only to handle rotational forces and can be theoretically stronger

My setup...
-L-D fabricated Full-floater 9" w/Stock Car Products snouts
-Nodular third member
-31-spline detroit locker/3.25 gears
-Stock Car Products hubs/bearings/drive plates


hope this helps
EDIT: added better pics in my original post to better illustrate a "full-floater"

CA Fab 9?

Not on the road yet. Jody has it right - if you use street tires only, then you could get away with 31 spline with TruTrac, but if you ever want to take it to the track with slicks you will need 35 spline axles with the Locker. Did a bunch of research on this and spoke with the techies at Currie, Mark Williams, Strange and Moser. They concurred. Also, if you do that go with the Pro Nodular Iron case with 3.25" (not 3.0625") bore spacing. It's only a $90 upcharge and has almost zero deflection.

Yea, the 31-splines scare me...I know if I have big power available, eventually I'll want to try it out at the strip. Some folks even are saying use a spool on the street and I'll never notice it....? Sounds extreme. Maybe the D Locker is the best compromise within a 9"....Dana 60 with 35spline/True trac is the other option but I really don't want to do that.
Gregg

trust me, you'll notice it. And don't even consider high speed cornering. Don't do a spool for the street.

Jody

Gregg -
You shouldn't have too many problems finding a good rearend...LOL
What tranny are you running ? It will have to be one stout piece.

Spool on the street is out. Leaning towards the locker/ 35 spline combo. Haven't settled on a tranny yet but leaning towards a Powerglide...I think 1st gear in a TH400 or 4L80 will be useless at this power level.

First u need to decide what you wanna do with the car. I hear 1000+hp,+ 4-link +powerglide + Slicks= To me that sounds like a drag car. If thats what ur looking for than cool, go with a ladder bar setup. But I would think twice about 1000+hp on the street. If your direction is to build a wild street car that handles, and can also hit the 1320', then a 4-link is not optimal. 3-link suspensions offer great handleing with virtually no bind when set up correctly. As far as a 3-link not being able to handle that kind of power, I disagree. As long as the compnents are built correctly, and installed correctly, then u shouldn't have a problem. You need to make sure ur trans and rear are built to handle all that poweras well, especially if your gonna throw a set of slicks on. All said an done, you need to decide how far you would like to go with the suspension aspect on the car and in what direction. Drag racing suspensions are far different than a handling/roadrace suspension. You can find a happy medium between the two but you will almost always sacrafice some handleing in either direction. Either way, It sounds like its gonna be one kick A$$ car. I'm sure LD will get back to u, Mark is pretty busy. GOODLUCK:thumbsup: